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Another idle thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aaron
  • Start date Start date
A

Aaron

Guest
Hello,

I have an 1982 GS550LZ, which has been acting up ever since I bought it. Twice I have had the carbs cleaned, and both times it ran really well for a period of time and then degraded. First time was by the FIL, gearhead very anal, a few years back. It ran great for awhile. I cleaned them out this spring and put about 500 commuter miles on the bike and it started to act up. Over the last month I've ridden regualarly, the bike has not sat more than a few days at a time

After the cleaning I tuned the air screws to the highest rpm method. Idle was rock solid, no dips, no hanging, good responce across the throttle range. Started great with the choke on and I could close it pretty quickly. I have replaced all the orings, and do not get any intake leaks.

Over a few weeks I started to get rpms dropping coming down when I stop. Didn't happen when the carbs where freshly cleaned. Now I can't get a decent idle any more, and cylinder 2 is cold. It doesnt seem to run consistantly with out choke. Rpms sometimes hang up around 2K and it will stall if I don't keep on the throttle.

I don't have a fuel filter on the bike. I see a very slight amount of rust, not sure what is going on further down. Does this sound like crap from the gas tank fouled the carbs again? I'm thinking about going throught the carbs again, installing a fuel filter, giving the tank a good cleaning, and checking the valves :eek:.

I don't want to stick alot of money into this bike, I'm going to get a new bike next year. I want to get it to good running condition so I can get a few bucks for it.

Aaron
 
Hello mate
i think you've probably answered your own question there, if it runs good after carb cleaning & no other work is done then theres not a lot else that can cause the problem apart from crap getting into the carbs

I'd clean the tank out thoroughly, let it dry competely & seal it with something like frosts tank sealer then clean the carbs again & hopefully all will be fine ;)

As a footnote i'm not sure what tank sealers are available in your part of the world so mentioned frosts as an example of a good brand which i've used, whatever brand you use if its up to aircraft spec it should be fine cheaper makes such as petseal only seem to work for a limited time imo
 
yep, sounds like crap fouling out the idle circuits.
fuel%20filter.jpg


meet your new best friend :D
 
Seuadr...that there is one LARGE picture! Is that acutal size? :p

I'll go 3x on the the crust in the tank theory...
 
tone said:
could also be your worst enemy if its not a bike specific one or its fitted incorrectly ;)

hence my rather long previous post :D
Click to expand...
true, gotta point the arrow to the carbs and get a snowmobile or other small engine one, they are all low pressure to my knowledge.
 
How bad does a tank need to be? It doesn't seem like alot of rust that I can see. Another question; I hate getting the airbox boots back over the carbs. They always seem to wiggle one off when you think you've finally got it. If I get pod filters would a rejet be in order?
 
Aaron said:
How bad does a tank need to be? It doesn't seem like alot of rust that I can see. Another question; I hate getting the airbox boots back over the carbs. They always seem to wiggle one off when you think you've finally got it. If I get pod filters would a rejet be in order?
Click to expand...
yes. you know, i'm not sure if this is possible with your model, but on my gs1100g i can put the carbs and airbox together first and then put the whole assembly in.
 
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