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Another Progressive question....

  • Thread starter Thread starter TheBigRed
  • Start date Start date
T

TheBigRed

Guest
Ok, couple of years back I had the opportunity to purchase some "progressive" shocks for a really good price, and knowing I would need something better for Old Red, I made the purchase. No springs with them, but I kept my eye out and waited patiently, and have now sources appropriate springs for what I believed these shocks to be. 14 series OEM replacements.

Well, last night the springs arrived (delayed a day by my neighbor lady accidently opening the package :shock::shock: as she was expecting a package as well). Woohoo!! Well late in the evening I get anxious and finally have a chance to look at how they will mate up.

Well, the springs don't just slip on as I would expect. Thus my question for those who have put progressive shocks on their bikes. Should the spring just easily slip down on to the shock Plastic protection bit and all?

It was taking quite a bit of force to attempt to get the spring to fully cover the plastic bit (see picture for idea of what I'm talking about), and I ended up forcing it to within about 1/2 to 1 inch of being engaged, but decided before going too much further back off and find out if this type of force is normal, or if these shocks are in fact not designed for the springs I have. And if in fact the shocks are incorrect, what model are they so I can re-sell them to get the right thing for my application. (I know the springs are correct as I have a part number for them and it matches what is on progressives site, however, the box that the shocks came Is not the correct box, and I can't find anything other than (see second picture) 1253 2098a Made in Mexico stamped on the shocks).

shocks1.jpg


shocks2.jpg



So, back to the question parts:

Should the springs slip easily onto the appropriate shock body?

What are these shocks that I have (if progressives what model line, if not where can I go to find information so I can re-sell them appropriately named)?

Amos
 
I have used spring compressors to install heavier springs on 412s'
and it is a 2 man job with leverage and compressing tools.
 
I have used spring compressors to install heavier springs on 412s'
and it is a 2 man job with leverage and compressing tools.


Ok, if I understand you correctly, it is normal to have to apply a lot of pressure to get the spring over the plastic bit then?

That means that the shocks probably are correct, woohoo.. however I noticed some surface rust/wear on them last night that I want to address before installing.

I knew I would need a spring compressor to compress the spring so that the "cap" could be installed, but hadn't realized that I'd need extra pressure to then push the spring onto the shock body. Luckily though, I've actually got a contact at a place that should have the equipment needed to get these together for me.

Amos
 
If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, they should not require any force and the diameter of the spring is too small. Basically, they should go on with the same amount of force they come off with or else you will have some binding and that will not allow your shock to work properly.

Check the ID of the spring against the cap, if the cap won't fit inside the spring then the ID is too small, you'll need to either get new springs or new shocks.

You do need to compress the spring to put the cap on, that much is correct, but the way I understand your question you have to force the spring over the body itself, and that should not be the case.
 
Last edited:
Hey Long....

Now that you mention the binding etc.. I'm inclined to agree, it was super tight to get them on there.

Now the question becomes.. what shocks do I have so I can sell them for what they are, and use that to fund purchasing the correct set of shocks.

Amos


If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, they should not require any force and the diameter of the spring is too small. Basically, they should go on with the same amount of force they come off with or else you will have some binding and that will not allow your shock to work properly.

Check the ID of the spring against the cap, if the cap won't fit inside the spring then the ID is too small, you'll need to either get new springs or new shocks.

You do need to compress the spring to put the cap on, that much is correct, but the way I understand your question you have to force the spring over the body itself, and that should not be the case.
 
should be snug on the shock body. not an interference fit, not a loose fit either.
stockers are loose fit style.
 
Well, with the plastic bit in there it is deffinately VERY tight, if I'd take that out, it would probably slip on fairly easily. However the instructions that came with the shocks say that the plastic piece goes in there, so I'm going with it.

BTW the part number on the box for the shocks is 14-1283B, which according to other sites would be for the 450's and some other models.

One other tidbit, I am using the HD springs rather than standard, so the coils are probably thicker, thus standard Progressive springs would fit over the plastic normally?? I haven't had a chance to look around the packaging and stuff to see if there is a note to not use the plastic piece for HD springs.

Amos

should be snug on the shock body. not an interference fit, not a loose fit either.
stockers are loose fit style.
 
The plastic bit acts as a bushing to keep the spring from rubbing on the body which makes noise, removes paint, and creates heat. It's kind of a cheap way of doing it, but that's pretty much the reason behind it. If you are using HD springs you may be able to get away without using it, but I'll leave it up to you if you want to try it or not. You'll know before too long if you can get away with it or not, but because it fits tighter my guess is that it will rub. An alternative solution would be remove some of the plastic from the bushing with some sandpaper to get the spring to fit over it and that way you'll still have the bushing in there, but I don't know how tight we're talking about so that may be a longshot - and if it's too thin, the spring will eventually rub through it anyway.

As for identification, there should be some numbers stamped on the body of the shock - most manufacturers stamp them on the eyelet. See if you can find these numbers and type them into a Google search along with the name "Progressive" and see what you come up with. I don't have a shock catalog for Progressive shocks so I can't be of much more help than that.
 
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