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Another R/R Question (wire colors)

  • Thread starter Thread starter cooledbyair81
  • Start date Start date
C

cooledbyair81

Guest
Thanks in advance for your help. I am an owner of a 81 650e. My R/R has 6 wires: 3 yellow. a brown, black and white w/red stripe. From what I have gathered through the many threads on this suject the 3 yellow go to the 3 wires coming from the stator (regardless of their color). Where do the other 3 go? My manual doesn't show these colors on the R/R so I am a bit stumped. I know one will go to the + terminal (fused) and one to the - terminal but//// Again, thanks for your help.

The R/R has a sticker the is typed - S-1232-12 0.11
 
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Hee Haw Howdy!

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. cooledbyair81,

Where did you get this r/r? Is it used from another bike? What make?

While you're thinking about that, here is your mega-welcome! \\:D/

Dear fellow GS rider,
Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)![FONT=Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]
icon_biggrin.gif


Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
walmart_greeter2.jpg
 
not your model, but may be useful anyway?

not your model, but may be useful anyway?

on my 850, the third wire (also a "+") goes into the wiring harness towards the ignition switch
the connection is in the bunch of wires next to the starter relay
 
Thanks for the info

Thanks for the info

BTW: I have been to your site and it is very informative and has already helped and will help in the future. I don't know where the R/R came from or out of. It was on the bike when I bought it. Also, the bike doesn't have a traditional wiring harness. It is the bare minimum to get the bike street legal I am sorry I cannot provide anymore info than this... I really don't want to buy a new R/R but if I have to I guess I will.

The bike has a Dyna S ignition and that is about it for after market (not that it really matters for this post) parts.

I will be visiting and reading all pages, posts and the like on jetting carbs too. I want pods. My stock air contraption is cumbersome for this mechanically challenge rider.
 
No offence intended at all, but if you are mechanically challenged, you may want to steer clear of pods. They WILL require a re-jet, and unless you have a good idea of what you are looking at, what is going on at various stages of the powerband, and such, you may find yourself more frustrated with trying to get pods to work on your bike than dealing with the airbox and whatnot.
 
None taken

None taken

I will take it to a recommended shop to get the jets installed and tuned. No not me. I have trouble posting to this forum.
 
i think this may be one of the most informative forums and also the friendliest i have ever been on !!!

thanks all
 
cooledbyair81 said:
I will take it to a recommended shop to get the jets installed and tuned. No not me. I have trouble posting to this forum.
Click to expand...
Good luck with that. Many shops have adopted a 10- or 15-year rule.

Anything older than that and they won't even let it in the door, let alone work on it. :shock:

.
 
Hmm. Although, I haven't received any news to help me out - not in my favor anyway - I still appreciate the words. I hope someone can help with my original R/R post.
 
cooledbyair81 said:
Hmm. Although, I haven't received any news to help me out - not in my favor anyway - I still appreciate the words. I hope someone can help with my original R/R post.
Click to expand...

Without knowing where your r/r came from, we'd just be guessing as to the wiring connections. Different motorcycle manufacturers used different r/r manufactures with different color wiring. Are you sure you have an integrated regulator/rectifier unit and not a separate regulator and rectifier?

OK, if you really want me to guess (but I AM NOT responsible for any damage to your bike) I'd say the three yellow wires connect to the stator, the red/white wire gets connected to the hot wire in the wiring harness (passes through the fuse box on its way to the battery) the black is ground (should be connected directly to the negative battery terminal) and the brown is a "sense" wire and should be connected to a switched power source. It could also be that the brown wire is ground and the black wire is a sense wire. On the Honda units we like, the green wire is the ground wire and the black wire is the sense wire.

Or the brown wire could be connected to the headlight so that it only turns on when the bike is running (and in your case should be left unconnected). Do you see the problem with guessing about an unknown part?

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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I do understand that guessing in the instance is not good. I will shop for the infamous Honda R/R. At least then I will know the color scheme. Thanks everyone for your help.

Off to my next post. I want spokes with drums, front and rear.
 
The black wire splits into the brake switch wire. It is the sensor wire that need power when the ignition switch is turned on.
The three yellow wires go the the stator in any order.
The Brown is ground that goes to your negative post of the battery
The red with with stripe goes to the red wire that goes into the fuse box.
 
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