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(another) reg/rectifier help needed

Agemax

Agemax

Forum Guru
i know this has been posted many times and i have trawled through previous threads but i cant find the answer i need.

my problem is that i have a hoda reg/rec fitted to my gs1000 and i fully understand which wires do what from this unit. the trouble is the wires that come from the alternator.
they are as follows...

1x green/white wire
1x yellow wire that splits into 2
1x white/blue wire that lits into 2

can anyone shed some light on how this should be wired up please?

thanks
 
Cooking with electrons

Cooking with electrons

Hi Mr. adrian,

One leg of your stator is routed up to a non-existent headlight switch. At least MY bike doesn't have the switch. All you need is to connect the three output wires from the stator to the three input wires of the r/r. The wires running up to the headlight switch have been cut back and taped off on my bike. It looks like this:

DSCF2525_cleanconnections.jpg



As stated in the Stator Papers, it is unclear why Suzuki used three different color wires for the output of their stator. It's very confusing. But you simplify things by disconnecting the headlight switch, unless you are using it, of course.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
but my bike does have a headlight switch, i take it you mean an on/off switch? i have a white and red wire which comes from the switch which is currently not connected to anything, 2 white/blues from the alternater and a yellow from the R/R that are not connected
 
Cooking with electrons

Cooking with electrons

adrian.max@blueyonder.co. said:
but my bike does have a headlight switch, i take it you mean an on/off switch? i have a white and red wire which comes from the switch which is currently not connected to anything, 2 white/blues from the alternater and a yellow from the R/R that are not connected
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. adrian,

Here in the states motorcycles are supposed to have the headlight on all the time. Most bikes don't have an on/off switch any more.

What you want to do is connect two of the output wires from your stator directly to the input wires of the r/r. The third wire from the stator will connect to one of the wires running up to the headlight switch. The other wire coming back from the headlight switch will then connect to the third input wire of the r/r. What this circuit does is disable one leg of the stator when the headlight is turned off so that you don't overcharge and cook your battery.

I'm sorry I don't have a wiring diagram so I can't give you exact wire colors, but that's the principle. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
adrian.max@blueyonder.co. said:
i know this has been posted many times and i have trawled through previous threads but i cant find the answer i need.

my problem is that i have a hoda reg/rec fitted to my gs1000 and i fully understand which wires do what from this unit. the trouble is the wires that come from the alternator.
they are as follows...

1x green/white wire
1x yellow wire that splits into 2
1x white/blue wire that lits into 2

can anyone shed some light on how this should be wired up please?

thanks
Click to expand...

Hello Adrian. This is what you're looking at: Your bike was set up originally with a regulator, seperate from the rectifier unit. Those 2 stator output wires that split took one of the wires to that seperate regulator. The original regulator was a 2 phase shunt only, with the 3rd phase output, originally routed through the headlight switch and back to the rectifier input. The idea was to reduce contribution from the stator when not required and then adding the 3rd phase power contribution when the headlights were switched on.

Make sense now?
 
SPARKSS said:
Hello Adrian. This is what you're looking at: Your bike was set up originally with a regulator, seperate from the rectifier unit. Those 2 stator output wires that split took one of the wires to that seperate regulator. The original regulator was a 2 phase shunt only, with the 3rd phase output, originally routed through the headlight switch and back to the rectifier input. The idea was to reduce contribution from the stator when not required and then adding the 3rd phase power contribution when the headlights were switched on.

Make sense now?
Click to expand...
i think so . what you are saying is 2 of the wires that were split into 2 are now not needed. so the 3 wires from the alternator go to the 3 yellows from the R/R despite being different colours? is that right?
 
adrian.max@blueyonder.co. said:
i think so . what you are saying is 2 of the wires that were split into 2 are now not needed. so the 3 wires from the alternator go to the 3 yellows from the R/R despite being different colours? is that right?
Click to expand...

Yes - the original stator wires were different colors for no good reason. Cut off the split wires and add connectors to the ends of the 3 alternator/stator wires, and connect them to the 3 yellow wires on your new regulator. Ignore the two wires that run up to the HL switch.

Wire the output to the fuse box (and/or battery too) and a good ground (also to the battery). You'll not have charging problems again as long as your stator/rotor is putting out good voltage and you've got a good battery.
 
thanks mate i think that clears it up but does that mean it wont increase the charge rate when i turn the headlight on, which i tend to use all the time, night or day?
 
adrian.max@blueyonder.co. said:
thanks mate i think that clears it up but does that mean it wont increase the charge rate when i turn the headlight on, which i tend to use all the time, night or day?
Click to expand...

No - it was to help things when the headlight was OFF, not ON. The only reason Suzuki did it that way was so that the original Rectifier could be cheaper (two diodes pairs instead of three), and so that the regulator would not overheat running the excess current to ground through the SCR when the headlight was off.

Modern regulators are better designed so they can easily get rid of the heat of the excess current when the light's off. Plus, if you run the light on all the time you won't have as much excess current anyway.
 
This is why I love this site.

The wealth of knowledge here is truly priceless.

Rock on Guys.
 
adrian.max@blueyonder.co. said:
i think so . what you are saying is 2 of the wires that were split into 2 are now not needed. so the 3 wires from the alternator go to the 3 yellows from the R/R despite being different colours? is that right?
Click to expand...
That's correct Adrian. I see you've asked about the charging power not increasing when the headlight is on......this is correct also - what takes place though, with the connections you're making up (and many GS owners) is that the charging system is now in max output configuration all the time which is ok as long as the system loads (headlights etc) are intact to help the regulator(s) keep the system voltage to a reasonable level (to prevent battery overcharging). Obviously the worst case for the system, set up like this is where the headlight and/or other lighting goes out, system voltage rises....regulators then try to shunt the extra power (heating the regulator) and the battery gets overcharged - all aggravated if the engine is run at higher rpm.
 
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