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any dragracers running a slider clutch?

  • Thread starter Thread starter madjack57754
  • Start date Start date
M

madjack57754

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I've now got a slider clutch on my Trac Dynamics small tire dragbike.
Never ran one before. What did I get myself into?
I followed Schnitz and MTC's recomendations for the initial set up. I put Aluminum backed fibers in the pack, and am using stock Suzuki steels. What am I overlooking. The bike is a 1-2 auto with all the usual stuff. I've ran a lockup with a crossover dialbox for years, so the basics are are already in place. It ran 8.50s but was rather inconsistant. I put the slider in to try to get repeatability. I know I'll slow down some but don't know how much. Nobody else in the bike class at my local track has one so I can't ask anyone around here
 
Ryan, Bob and I have some experience with them. The team I'm with runs both Kaw and Suzuki, 7 and 10 inch, bar bikes, all with sliders. Between us maybe we can help.

Did you buy the guages for it?

What do you want to know?
 
Yup....I'm no expert, but I've replaced plenty of fibers and played with the adjustments....just ask us what you need to know....

And I understand that MTC is very helpful on the phone....

Bob T.
 
I'm really glad I made the switch. My 60' was within .016 Saturday with five runs. Mark gave me a couple ideas to improve the consistency. it's still way more consistent 60' and reaction time then the lockup.
 
Lecroy...Gauges? Don't have a clue as to what you mean. I bought the engine complete with carbs from P/S racer Mike Berry. He was selling it for a buddy and the only thing he knew about the motor was Byron Hines built it in 2002, and it has 15 documented passes on it. My chassis is one of Matts old ones so I thought they needed to be together.
In the clutch the springs and blue nuts were all set at very different heights, and a couple of the nuts were scraping the cases enough to take the anodizing off the top surfaces. I put jam nuts on the studs to lock the height adjustment. (MTC litature said to use thread locker) I think this must be an older unit because the studs are 6mm while MTC shows 8mm on the current ones they sell
I used a digital height gauge to set the preload at .800
I'm not sure where to set my launch rpm .The clutch stall is 4800 at the preload I have set in it. I'm wondering about my 2 step lowside ....2-3 hundred rpm below stall sound about right? and is my launch rpm to high?
I'm also not to sure about the arm weights. This thing has the cross bolt with 2 nuts and 6 washers. Seems like a lot of hardware, but I don't have any other place to start. Wondering at what point this needs to lock. With that much weight I'd think probably under 60". There is no datalogger so I have no way of knowing what goes on where except by my 60' times
This bike has a 7x18 M/T tire on it. this is a big tire chassis but I prefer the small tire/18" combo for MPH reasons. When I ran the lockup I ran 9lbs of pressure in the back tire. With a slider I'm wondering if 12 to 13lbs is more practical due to not shocking the tire with the clutch dump...and less wrinkle wall boogie at the top end
Lots of questions I know but I got to start somewhere
 
Madjack...it sounds like your gettin a handle on it already...

Yes the 6mm studs are the old style...I bought 8mm studs and redrilled/tapped the hat and got new 8mm nuts....after I broke a stud.

OK...I run in the 9.20 range on a 7" x 18" tire. Right now I'm set at .730" hat to top of blue nut. That puts my stall at 5500. I set my 2-step at 5000 or 5250 depending on how I'm hitting the tree.
I use to run .700 for a stall of 5700.
I have the cross bolt with 8 washers, I tried 6 and it worked but I felt it slipped too much launching.
And what is your air gap?

Are you running box or bottom bulb racing?
Because the set up will be different....

Also, have you checked the end play on the basket? I bought my bike used and I had to tighten that up...

Trust me, once you get it set up, you'll like it.:-D

Bob T.
 
end play runout is .004. I just pulled the weight off one arm and have 17 grams+the arm. I'm running on the box, but not sure what you mean about running the setup different
 
madjack57754 said:
I'm running on the box, but not sure what you mean about running the setup different
Click to expand...

When I bottom bulb...I run as much air gap as I can...I set the stall as high as I can and set the two step as low as I can...
I need the bike to react sloooooowwwww.

On the box....don't worry about it....

Bob T.
 
Just checked the air gap... .052 . I've got 2 weeks before I can run this thing, so what should I have for spares. I've got a dozen n.o.s. steels and a new set of Barnett kevlars on aluminum backs that I've been hording. Are kevlar plates acceptable or should I order a 83 gs1100 conventional replacement set?
 
it seems like most people recomend Fast by Gast fibers. I've got my stall set at 4600 or so right now. My 2-step is at 4200. When I got this slider it had the 6mm studs. I upgraded to the 8mm before I started running it. I run 8.5 lbs in my 7" slick.

You always hear how sliders don't react that fast or hit that hard. Mine pulls the front tire off the ground right at the hit. I'm using medium springs with 17.9 grams on each arm (6 washers). I have 1.025 in the box right now. Seems like it reacts pretty fast to me. My 60' is in the low 1.30's.

http://media.putfile.com/slomo2
 
As Ryan said, I know a lot of people using FBG fibers....that's what I use.
My bike also reacts fast....Last few races have been on a Pro .400 tree and when I've hit the light, I've had anywhere from a .006 to a .023 light.
60' in the mid to low 1.30s....also 8.5lbs in the tire.
 
madjack57754 said:
Lecroy...Gauges? Don't have a clue as to what you mean.
Click to expand...

There are two tools. One is a dial indicator that is mounted to a socket that you use to set the larger blue colored nuts height (or spring tension). The second looks like a T handle wrench that slides into a socket. This fits over the blue nut and is used to hold it in place while you use the T to tighten the jam nut.

It just takes the pain out of adjusting.
 
lecroy said:
There are two tools. One is a dial indicator that is mounted to a socket that you use to set the larger blue colored nuts height (or spring tension). The second looks like a T handle wrench that slides into a socket. This fits over the blue nut and is used to hold it in place while you use the T to tighten the jam nut.

It just takes the pain out of adjusting.
Click to expand...

Hey those sound handy....who sells 'em?
 
Thanks guys. Ordered 2 sets of FBG lined clutch plates after reading rosco15's post. I have made a jam nut adjuster by cutting the back off a 3/4" socket and welding "T" handles to it. A 1/4" drive socket will go down the center to the jam nuts. I'll look into the dial height gauge. I can probably build one using a cheap harbor freight digital caliper. I've got several around that have been tweaked, so I wouldn't be out much if it doesn't work out
I also ordered the 8mm stud kit from MTC. I won't change out the 6mm studs until winter unless something breaks
I figured that a slider was going to be more expensive than the lockup.... I wasn't wrong
I'll post what happens when I run next. ( on the 19th, 20th, & 21st) Should be a well prepped track, 16 car pro mod show & 4 T/F Harleys on an 1/8 mile
 
We used to snap the smaller studs frequently with the top gas car tire bikes. Always had to stay on top of them. With the larger studs we have not had any problems. We think they broke because we were setting the air gap for a pro-tree and this places more force on the studs.

On the little bike (7" tire 8.90 index class) we never broke the studs, or the tit, or the plates for that matter.

We use all FBG plates. Not saying they are better than OEM, but we buy in bulk (100 plates at a time) so they don't cost near as much.

I am not expert on this but I would think that the slider is more controlled not because it is softer, but because of how the plate pressure is controlled. I have not had the luxery of being able to play with one. We know what our setups need to be and always do the same thing.

Consider that when I ran that 8.35 pass, my short time was 1.27 with a multi-stage. Both the Shark and Raptor can pull teens with a slider no problem and can run in the 7's. Picture is the Shark in action.

Ryan, I am sorry I have not posted some video of Mr. Green yet. I have not forgot. For some reason I can't find your question about setting the stall and 2-step. I may have missed this point when you were hot into that air clutch. When it was a pro-tree we needed everything we could get to cut a good light. So the bikes were set on the hairy edge. We use a line lock to hold the bikes in position once staged. We set the stall by looking at the chain. Once the chain started to bounce we knew it was on the edge.

For E/T we don't want these hairy touchy things. We want things as lame as we can go but still play the cat.
 
Last edited:
lecroy said:
Ryan, I am sorry I have not posted some video of Mr. Green yet. I have not forgot. For some reason I can't find your question about setting the stall and 2-step. I may have missed this point when you were hot into that air clutch. When it was a pro-tree we needed everything we could get to cut a good light. So the bikes were set on the hairy edge. We use a line lock to hold the bikes in position once staged. We set the stall by looking at the chain. Once the chain started to bounce we knew it was on the edge.
Click to expand...

No thats exactly what you told me when I first switched over. I was going out on my own and trying to flash the clutch. I thought it might make for a faster 60'.

Where do you consider your stall speed. Where the bike actually moves forward or where you can feel the clutch draging, but it isn't really pulling the bike forward yet.
 
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