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Any Locksmiths??

  • Thread starter Thread starter SqDancerLynn1
  • Start date Start date
S

SqDancerLynn1

Guest
There has to be a way to get the ign switch apart I have two of them one good one without a key, One with a key- the steering lock jams My idea is to change the lock tumblers.
I tried to knock the pins out, the only thing I did was to break my pin punch
 
I'm no locksmith, but here's a thought:

1. Disconnect the battery
2. In the ignition switch, short the wires
3. Install a switch hidden on/in the bike somewhere rated for the appropriate starting current.
4. Use your current switch just to lock the steering.

This boosts your security level a bit, eh?
 
My current switch works fine! What I want to do is install lock set I bought on Ebay so that one key fits all
 
sorry bro ran into kind of the same problem myself well not really my keys fell out when i was riding apparently that can happen when your keys wear out. Anyway the lock is not made to have pins replaced. I took it to a locksmith and he pointed that out to me because I started out with two differant keys. Well needless to say I still have 2 seperate keys. You may be able to fix it however.

Remove the front headlight.
Remove the lock
Use a good electronics cleaner such as Power Wash and spray the crap out of it.
When you are completely sure it is clean and dry then put some Dry graphite in there.

A lot of times people will use wd-40 to fix locks and the does nothing but gum them up. Can't really blame them it even says to use on locks on the can. However it is entirely the wrong substance and it does make pins eventually stick.
 
YOU MISSED THE QUESTION. I want to seperate the key switch part from the steering lock/ignition switch. Their are what look like two role pins holding it together HOW DO YOU SEPERATE THE TWO PIECES
 
if all you have is two roll pins holding it together you will need a punch. it needs to be just a tad under the pin size then you, wack it with a hammer till the pins come out the other side. check for a hole on the other side for the pin to come out.

on the seat lock i had to pry a cover off it to get the lock out.

some times its cheaper and faster to buy a maching lock set.
 
locks

locks

Lynn are the roll pins in a blind hole, open on one end only, if so you need a very small drill bit, then drill thru the roll pin to the other side then back drill that pilot hole with one the size of the roll pin and punch the pin out
 
jross said:
A lot of times people will use wd-40 to fix locks and the does nothing but gum them up. Can't really blame them it even says to use on locks on the can. However it is entirely the wrong substance and it does make pins eventually stick.
Click to expand...

As a former professional locksmith, I have to disagree. Few locksmiths recommend dry graphite for automotive locks because it cakes and hardens after a wet/dry cycle. I've scraped about a metric tonne of the stuff out of auto locks, particularly the older General Motors sidebar locks that would quit functioning after enough caked graphite built up. WD-40 is an excellent lock lubricant, and the only one I use. In moderate climates, WD-40 applied two or three times each winter will usually prevent locks from freezing, too (don't apply WD-40 in extremely cold temps or it might freeze before the liquid carrier evaporates!)

As to the pin removal problem, when I ran across this problem I usually ended up drilling a small hole at about 45 degrees right beside the pin so I could drive a small awl into the pin, then lever the pin out. Often I was able to reuse the pin, sometimes whacking same with a hammer on anvil to ovalize its cross-section for increased friction. Such pins are usually solid, and not rolled. The pins are not usually hardened to any significant degree. A cleaner method is to use a drill press to drill out the pin entirely, being careful not to drill much beyond the pin. I used to find that drilling a hole very slightly smaller than the pin itself worked well. Pick out any weakened sleeve that remains (I used a sharp hook fashioned from thin spring steel). Then fashion a replacement pin for a tight friction fit, or look for an appropriately sized rolled pin at Home Depot. Insert your new pin until you are certain it is in far enough to ensure the lock cylinder won't come out, then file it off flush with the body of the lock. If you insert the pin too far it may bind the lock cylinder, so don't file until you've tested for binding. Good luck!
 
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