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Anybody ever measure SH-775 Quiesent current draw?

posplayr

posplayr

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
I just measured the current draw on my Suzuki GS1100ED with SSPB and Compufire CF55402 3 phase regulator. I used a Fluke 75 Series II meter after doing a sanity check with it comparing to a digital readout on a Topward 6306D dual digital channel power supply.

Put the Fluke 75 on the 300 mAmp scale and it reads out directly in mill-amps up to the limit.

Inserted the Fluke meter into the SSPB ground connection; The SSPB draws 2.09 milli amps. That will last over 6 months on a 14 amp hour battery

Inserted the Fluke into the ground wire of the CF; The CF showed zero with 0.01 milli-amp resolution. Considering standard battery discharge rates that is effectively ZERO.

The CF is a MOSFET device and it would be only logical (if the designer even considered quiescent battery draw) to put all MOSFETs into an open (OFF) state when the IGN is off. This would be mega ohms of resistance to battery and so the only draw is mico amps of gate bias to MOSFETs which is what is bore out by the measurements. I see nothing; zero; nada.

A few more measurements:

My total battery draw with the SSPB (2.09 mA) is 2.55 mA so that figure that I have about 0.5 mA draw by the OEM Check Light brain box.
I also check the draw on my idiot light Battery sense wire which is hardwired to +12V through a 680 ohms resistor. When I installed this I used the inline resistor from the original battery to wire to +12V and did not bother to measure the drain. Since I had the meter out here is some data (for posterity).

680 ohms inline 1.61 mA
1K+680 ohms inline 1.4 mA
10K+680 ohms inline .59 mA
50K+680ohms inline .18 ohms

I checked and the idiot light was still functional (with key on) when I did the tests. So it looks like you can hook the idiot light right up to switched +12V ad suffer a draw of something less than 2 mAmp or hook it to a switched +12V and not worry about the +12V while running.
Mine is hooked to the switched output of the SSPB so no drain unless IGN is on and presumably I'm charging then.

I have a analog volt meter connected to the unswitched SSPB output connected through a switch with an LED to indicate it is on. Draws about 50 mAmps between the two of them.

Anybody done the equivalent on the SH-775 or care to do it? ;) The SH-775 is an SCR type device. Looking at a typical 10amp SCR data sheet it needs 2 milliamps to not trigger so the quiescent loads are probably higher for the SH-775.
 
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Come on, Pos, you actually think that any of us mere mortals are even qualified to think about, let alone DO the test? :D

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Steve said:
Come on, Pos, you actually think that any of us mere mortals are even qualified to think about, let alone DO the test? :D

.
Click to expand...

Well I would want to discourage anybody from posting results using a HF multi-meter. ;)
 
No, but I did check sense wire draw on my old SH -232 shunt R/R (wired direct to battery) with my $10 sears meter ; .0004 amps (when bike off), same setup measured a standard LED drawing .02 amp, so the meter might be about right!
 
tom203 said:
No, but I did check sense wire draw on my old SH -232 shunt R/R (wired direct to battery) with my $10 sears meter ; .0004 amps (when bike off), same setup measured a standard LED drawing .02 amp, so the meter might be about right!
Click to expand...

I updated the first post with some additional measurements.
 
I haven't yet, but I could. Except I haven't bought one yet. Planning on it, just haven't gotten around to it, much like the SSPB.

If no one else can do it I'll go ahead and order it.
 
I have the SH775 and SSPB but not a Fluke. And not really qualified to use one. So, since it's gonna be freaking cold here for yet another week, I suppose I could send you mine if you will pay return ship. Or, if there's a way to use a standard volt/ohm meter and you can instruct me how to do it, I can grab some measurements. BTW, my meter will measure milliamps up to 10amp draw. I used it to find a parasitic power draw on my ford that was draining the battery every couple of days.
 
My Polaris is ordered.

My Fluke (Model 77, Series 1) is at work, but comes home on the weekends.

My GS is in the shed, behind another GS.

There will be another GS in my (heated :p) garage in four weeks, should be able to get some measurements then.

.
 
Quick check with deluxe sears meter- your results will likely vary

My onboard voltmeter has seperate battery connection ( i.e, I can measure its draw with other stuff disconnected ). This measures .0175 amp. If I leave voltmeter "on" and reconnect battery to bike's electrics (thru multimeter) and pull all fuses except main one and measure total current draw, I now get a draw of .019 amp. so .0015 is going somewhere.
 
I am always impressed with your devotion to electrical efficiency and general electro-curiosity.
I have a Compufire on the Daytona and a CE on the 1150. If I have time when I am off I will put up some data for the CE, for curiosity sake- which is why I bought it. The thing is about half the size of a small cantaloupe.
 
bluewool said:
I am always impressed with your devotion to electrical efficiency and general electro-curiosity.
I have a Compufire on the Daytona and a CE on the 1150. If I have time when I am off I will put up some data for the CE, for curiosity sake- which is why I bought it. The thing is about half the size of a small cantaloupe.
Click to expand...

I have taken it upon myself to help demystify electrical systems (at least for motorcycles) and especially for anything I have endorsed.

The SH-775 is hard to beat on price, but I think there are some specific benefits (beyond just size) that the Compufire has over it (e.g. voltage performance power dissipation, and perhaps current drain). The CE is also well designed but it is a monster. For 40+ amp application it may be the only series solution.

Also I'm interested in current drain because of the drain another solid state power distribution device has. It pulls 50 mA in quiescent mod because it uses a CPU to control power distribution. In contrast the SSPB only pulls 2 mA. So it is helpful to understand what the other draws are on the system.
 
Sci85 said:
I have the SH775 and SSPB but not a Fluke. And not really qualified to use one. So, since it's gonna be freaking cold here for yet another week, I suppose I could send you mine if you will pay return ship. Or, if there's a way to use a standard volt/ohm meter and you can instruct me how to do it, I can grab some measurements. BTW, my meter will measure milliamps up to 10amp draw. I used it to find a parasitic power draw on my ford that was draining the battery every couple of days.
Click to expand...

You would want to put your meter into a lower current range; mine has a 300mA range.

With the bike off, remove your R/R (-) connection from it's ground (e.g. Single Point ground). Insert the meter between the R/R(-) and the SSP and see what the draw is.

Don't turn the key on like this. If you start the bike, the current will jump to over 10 amps.

Some day I might pickup a Polaris but at the moment it not that pressing.
 
I can do the testing. I have the SH-75 and access to plenty of meters with sufficient accuracy. BUT, it won't be anytime soon. Bike is buried in the corner of the too-effin'-cold detached garage.

It'll probably be mid-March before I get back out there and re-arrange from winter to summer mode. If you still need the info then, I'll get the battery charged and the bike running and see what the off-state current draw is.
 
850GT_Rider said:
I can do the testing. I have the SH-75 and access to plenty of meters with sufficient accuracy. BUT, it won't be anytime soon. Bike is buried in the corner of the too-effin'-cold detached garage.

It'll probably be mid-March before I get back out there and re-arrange from winter to summer mode. If you still need the info then, I'll get the battery charged and the bike running and see what the off-state current draw is.
Click to expand...

OK well , thanks for the interest. I will keep bumping this thread till we get some info. I might have the need to pick one up myself but at the moment it is nothing pressing.

I'm assuming the draw will be low, but larger than the CF. A few mAmps perhaps but hopefully less than 10 mAmps
 
posplayr said:
I'm assuming the draw will be low, but larger than the CF. A few mAmps perhaps but hopefully less than 10 mAmps
Click to expand...

In case you missed it, my post -a few replies back- was refering to setup with the SH-775 .I measured draw of 1.5 mamps vanishing into harness most likely headed to SH-775
 
tom203 said:
In case you missed it, my post -a few replies back- was refering to setup with the SH-775 .I measured draw of 1.5 mamps vanishing into harness most likely headed to SH-775
Click to expand...

Sorry Tom, I did miss that. :o

The 1.5 mAmps sounds about right and probably nothing much to worry about as for example the SSPB is about 2mAmps which is also nothing to worry about unless you want the bike to sit idle for 9 months.

If you pulled all of the fuses (except for main) then the R/R is probably all that is left. The most direct test is to measure the current on the R/R(-) leg to ground.

With all those fuses pulled, your idiot light box is probably not running , but mine measured about 0.5mA which is virtually inconsequential.
 
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