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Ape cam chain tensioner

  • Thread starter Thread starter miket
  • Start date Start date
M

miket

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I would like to check and adjust cam chin tension.APE manual adj.on board 83 gs 1100 e.

What is the procedure?

Thanks miket
 
While rotating the engine you should have no more than 2-3mm if play in the chain.
NOT tigh as snot or you will wear you guides.
 
chef1366 said:
While rotating the engine you should have no more than 2-3mm if play in the chain.
NOT tigh as snot or you will wear you guides.
Click to expand...


2-3 mm measured in between (center) cams with valve cover off?
 
resurrecting an old thread.....

resurrecting an old thread.....

One of the 1100E's that I have had an manual APE cam chain tensioner in it when I bought it. I have never had a manual tensioner before, so I not sure about the proper setup for it. Is the previously mentioned guidance fairly accurate as to how to set the proper tension maually?

chef1366 said:
While rotating the engine you should have no more than 2-3mm if play in the chain.
NOT tigh as snot or you will wear you guides.
Click to expand...

and/or

OzJavelin said:
I installed a manual tensioner in my Kawasaki Gpz750 last night. Instructions were to screw it in BY HAND as far as possible, then slowly turn engine over so that slack was taken up on the front-side of the chain (in my case clockwise from RHS), and continue to turn in tensioner BY HAND until it won't go in anymore. Then back off 1/6 of a turn, then tighten up locknuts. Job done.
Click to expand...
 
OzJavelin's technique sounds scary. I'd use Chef's method although it's not easy to judge chain tension when looking at the section between the two cams.
 
Nessism said:
OzJavelin's technique sounds scary. I'd use Chef's method although it's not easy to judge chain tension when looking at the section between the two cams.
Click to expand...

I don't understand this foible. Every year on the GSR, we see many people that can not install a stock automatic cam chain tensioner properly, oftentimes with precise instructions. Why oh why do they buy/use APE manual cam chain tensioners that are guaranteed to cause damage if not precisely installed? There is no performance gain or reduction in maintenance with them.

Earl
 
earlfor said:
I don't understand this foible. Every year on the GSR, we see many people that can not install a stock automatic cam chain tensioner properly, oftentimes with precise instructions. Why oh why do they buy/use APE manual cam chain tensioners that are guaranteed to cause damage if not precisely installed? There is no performance gain or reduction in maintenance with them.

Earl
Click to expand...
On high performance motors/heads/cams (not stock) there can be a moment of slack in the cam chain releasing the throttle at high rpms (hauling a$$) and cause bent valves and such. I also use aftermarket cam chain guides made for the extra tension. (which if adjusted properly there isn't any)
I agree the stock tensioner is fine on a stock motor. (properly maintained)
I do hate the stock petcocks though. They truly suck.
And stay away from needle torque wrenches. :hand:
 
Beam torque wrenches are for rookies! Professionals use Snap On click type torque wrenches!!! Ray.
 
Depends on how you qualify "professional".

I work for an aerospace component shop and there are NO click type torque wrenches in the building. We use dial type almost exclusively, or a few with a digital readout.

And Precision Instruments makes, or at least used to make, a lot of the Snap-On torque wrenches. http://www.torqwrench.com/ You can save money by buying the Precision Instruments brand, compared to Snap-On for the same tool.
 
After some careful experimentation, it appears that one technique pretty much results in the other. I found that tightening the tensioner until it contacts the chain, applying moderate pressure to "snug it up", and then backing off about 1/6th to 1/4 of a turn resulted in the desired 2-3 mm deflection in the chain between the cam sprockets. The variable is the amount of pressure used to "snug up" the tensioner and deflect the chain - there is a lot of lattitude there. With the tensioner tighter than "snug" I could still achieve the 2-3 mm deflection by applying more force to the chain. So it makes the procedure kind of subjective and open to interpretation. But I have it now where I'm happy with it and I think the engine will be too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chef1366
While rotating the engine you should have no more than 2-3mm if play in the chain.
NOT tigh as snot or you will wear you guides.

and/or


Quote:
Originally Posted by OzJavelin
I installed a manual tensioner in my Kawasaki Gpz750 last night. Instructions were to screw it in BY HAND as far as possible, then slowly turn engine over so that slack was taken up on the front-side of the chain (in my case clockwise from RHS), and continue to turn in tensioner BY HAND until it won't go in anymore. Then back off 1/6 of a turn, then tighten up locknuts. Job done.
 
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