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APE clutch kit

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
I used to share the same concern for motor deterioration. As a result I've got two sets of straight cut gears on the shelf now. But also several extra motors. This thing just keeps on ticking and I'm waiting for the need to upgrade it. BTW, it has been reinforced as follows: welded crank, Wiseco 1085cc pistons (at 10.25-1 ratio(!)), HD cylinder studs, manual cam chain tensioner, oil restrictor, DYNA 4000 igniton, Rajay F40 turbo, Mikuni HSR42 carb and MRE clutch lockup. But it still uses a stock transmission, cases, starter clutch, timing advancer, head/cams/valves/valve springs/retainers. Final gearing is 15/45.

 
Sounds very similar to my old granny bike. You have a lot newer ignition. I have some friend that run the SP4000 on all the their bikes and they really like them. The only problem I have heard of was with the remote display. Your a lot higher compression. Why so high anyway??

I want to try a different carb at some point, but I have been cutting up these old Keihins so long I have grown attached to them. Was looking at an S&S alcohol turbo carb, but it seems like they have the same problems with leaking past the seat as the Keihins did. They talk about needing a scavage pump or a holding tank. There just seems to be no clean way to get fuel into these things. A lot of people seem to like the HSR42, but I have not seen anyone using it with methanol. I'm not sure of the problems I would run into.

I like the aluminum pipes!

Have you ever tried to drop the gearing down to say 15:39 or 15:42, or are you able to keep it under pressure with the 45? What size rear tire do you have on it?
 
massakins said:
I used to share the same concern for motor deterioration. As a result I've got two sets of straight cut gears on the shelf now. But also several extra motors. This thing just keeps on ticking and I'm waiting for the need to upgrade it. BTW, it has been reinforced as follows: welded crank, Wiseco 1085cc pistons (at 10.25-1 ratio(!)), HD cylinder studs, manual cam chain tensioner, oil restrictor, DYNA 4000 igniton, Rajay F40 turbo, Mikuni HSR42 carb and MRE clutch lockup. But it still uses a stock transmission, cases, starter clutch, timing advancer, head/cams/valves/valve springs/retainers. Final gearing is 15/45.

Than I would say the clutch basket, the connecting rods, the stock buckets/shims and the valve springs in your motor are the weakest link.....I hear what your saying though, the need hasn't arose yet. I always build a motor with reliability as the most important factor even if it's a bracket bike.....I had a GS 1000 connecting rod let go on me for no apparent reason at a national event and it cost me plenty. The small end of the rod just opened up. I still have the piece that broke off and the piston that it knocked a hole through. I now have GS 1100 4v connecting rods in my 1000 2v and if you hold them side by side you will see they are much beefier. They are slightly longer (which is good) and require a custom base gasket set up......The "shim under" buckets and race valve springs would also be highly recommended for obvious reasons......And why aren't you running a 1-2.....2-3....auto transmission ?? If correctly done, its bulletproof in our motors and is worth almost 2 tenths in your ET...........I made my own and it works flawless......BadBillyB
 
hey bad billy email me or PM me some time on how to make a 1-2 or a 1-2-3 auto trans....we have a billet 5 speed auto in one bike and in my bike i just have a back cut, how can i turn a stock gs 1100 trans into a semi auto like that? thanks richie
 
I'm using the high compression to get out of the hole; initially had a .060" base gasket, but replaced it with stock (.018"). Next motor is on the bench as we speak and has 1055cc turbo pistons (i.e. 7-8 to 1 ratio). With stock lift cams I see no need to change valve shim arrangement as RPM is no different than a stock motor. Will install HD valve springs on new motor as well to ensure that boost isn't lifting the intakes off their seats prematurely. Really no need on exhaust side. As I said, it doesn't run any more RPMs than a stock motor. The VP C16 fuel does help an awful lot to live with compression, though.

Tried 15/39, 41 and 43 gearing at different times, but was wrestling with fuel pressure, jetting and clutch issues all at the same time. Now that they are starting to subside it is time to repeat the cycle, albeit in reverse order.

Stock transmission is my own limits, to manage costs. No big block or OS sleeves and stock transmission. Interested in seeing how far I can go with this combo. Might break tomorrow. We'll see.
 
Richie said:
hey bad billy email me or PM me some time on how to make a 1-2 or a 1-2-3 auto trans....we have a billet 5 speed auto in one bike and in my bike i just have a back cut, how can i turn a stock gs 1100 trans into a semi auto like that? thanks richie

Bill, I'd also like to see how you made your own.
If I could make a set for myself I'd be very happy.
 
Paul said:
Have you checked the steels for flatness?

New OEM-stock steels/fibers/springs arrived today. :D
PICT1817.jpg
 
Took the first testride with the new stock clutch/springs setup today. no clutch slipping :D :D :D

and my left arm in good shape... :wink:
 
Just some follow up info....

Well, well now as the wheater is better, I had the chance to test the bike a little bit more.

At full throttle and in forfth gear the clutch starts to slip at 7000 rpm, I can see the tachoneedle go from 7000 to 10.000 rpm in almost no time. :evil:

So, I mounted three of the HD-springs back, a minor slipping is still there, but the bike is rideable.

Getting the feeling that I'm back where I started... :roll:

I think Lecroy:s advise is what I have to follow now.

"Staying in shape is important at any age. Lifting weights is not all that"bad for you".
 
Why am I thinking that there is something wrong. Are you sure thats a stock motor?? :D :D

Actually, I wonder if there is something else wrong with the setup you have. If I lived near you I would drop over today and help sort this out because I have a hard time thinking that the stock motor could slip the new stock parts if the clutch was setup right.
 
lecroy said:
Why am I thinking that there is something wrong. Are you sure thats a stock motor?? :D :D

It's not stock any more... [-X

I mounted three non-stock Clutchsprings :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

The bike runs just fine with my new clutch. :-({|=

And having another clutch with steels f?r spare makes me feel safe if any more slipping should occur. \:D/
 
Went back to your orignal post and read. I am not sure why I had the idea it was stock.

Not sure what to tell you now. You see what I am doing for the higher power engine. I don't have a good idea on spring force versus HP verus slippage. A data logger would answer the question on your setup.

Sounds like you don't want to add the heavy springs, so the lockup is going to be the way to go. I am sure even at 200HP you could run all stock springs without a problem. It's just a question on how much weight you need on the arms.

You may have already damaged your new plates.
 
lecroy said:
Went back to your orignal post and read. I am not sure why I had the idea it was stock.

Not sure what to tell you now. You see what I am doing for the higher power engine. I don't have a good idea on spring force versus HP verus slippage. A data logger would answer the question on your setup.

Sounds like you don't want to add the heavy springs, so the lockup is going to be the way to go. I am sure even at 200HP you could run all stock springs without a problem. It's just a question on how much weight you need on the arms.

You may have already damaged your new plates.

Well....

I don't think a stock clutch with stock springs can handle 178 hp. and I didn't thought that before I read your posts.

But what the heck, it was worth a try buying everything brand new....., unfortunally it didn't work out. :cry:

I now drive the stetup I first thought was the the best, stock fibers and steels with three HD-springs.

The conclusion is that the used fibers/steels, even that they there differnt brands (probably), didn't have any influence on the end result, I can mount them back anytime.

Six HD-spring was to much for at least my left arm, but three i can handle.

BTW:

The bike runs really nice now, even the clutch. :D
 
I am sure even at 200HP you could run all stock springs without a problem.
I was talking about with a lockup. Would give you your nice soft pull. I have tried running three APE red springs on my old bike with a lockup. But this takes a toll on the plates.

You could get a new bike. Lighter, close to the same power, better handling and plus you get one of those girl clutch levers. I can pull mine in with my little finger.
 
lecroy said:
You could get a new bike. Lighter, close to the same power, better handling and plus you get one of those girl clutch levers. I can pull mine in with my little finger.

You are right, there are a lot of new nice bikes out there, probably to less cost as well, but not with the soul my old GS has. 8)
 
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