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Are k&n's better than my airbox?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matt
  • Start date Start date
Honestly? Why?

Suzuki designed these bikes to run with the stock airbox better than you can ever do once you switch to pods and start the long process of rejetting. So, if you are wanting to go to pods, make sure there's a valid reason first. Make sure you did a PROPER carb rebuild, valve adjustment, synch, properly oiled air filter first.

Now, if you are missing the airbox altogether and cannot find one then yea I'd consider it but try to stay stock first.
 
KEEP your box, forget the pods (looks I am to a$$ume) and tune the bike correctly.

THAT bike in good tune, will blow your skirt up! ;) :o
 
Lets see...$125 for K&N's (that let dirt into your engine because they don't filter that great) and $125 for a jet kit. What was your question again?
 
Don't forget the pipe. I have all 3 on my GPz, but it is highly modified. And I tuned it using a wideband (sniffer) which is much easier and more accurate than plug chops.
 
If you need to ask that question, then the answer is definitely no, and you should keep your stock airbox.
 
If you were going with a free flowing pipe to finish the package it might be worth doing. With a jet kit it's not that tough to get a bike running right with pods.
 
Just get a KnN drop in filter so you can sub-consciously think you're getting 25% more power and saving 50% more in fuel economy.

Listen... I ran my bike with NO air-box when I first got it started... it popped, sputtered, and would not want to rev over 5500rpm...

I threw the air-box on it... and the thing WOKE UP. It's stupid easy to work on, and changes you make, actually have an affect on how the bike performs, like jetting, needle setting, air and fuel screw adjustments.

Getting pods will make your bike near impossible to tune 100% correctly. They look cool... sure... but who cares. Wouldn't you rather keep reliability and ride-ability and forgo the headache of constant tuning, tinkering, and general displeasure in life itself?

Wait... yours is an 81' right? CV carbs... yeah, don't do it. Not worth the hassle.

Try changing your gearing... maybe do some head work and port it, but keep the damn air-box.
 
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I just cut off the airbox at everything rear of the tank so it is easily removable along with the carbs. Just covered up the large hole that was made and left a very small opening, about the size of the air opening in the stock airbox and she runs just like before. Used a screen filter as opposed to foam. Even checked the plugs after a good ride and they look the same.
It took some playing to get the size of the air opening correct but now that it is I'm happy with the results. Especially being able to easily remove the carbs from now on.
 
So... what you're saying is... your current setup is as though you took the crumb tray out from under your toaster, drilled 4 holes in it, and threw a screen over it?

I'd like to see a picture of that. What did you do with the stock rubber 'velocity' boots?
 
Velocity boots still on. I'll take a picture tomorrow.

Basically think the first air chamber off the carbs(or the last chamber as the air enters the carbs depending on how you want to look at it) is the only thing left. Its smooth all the way around other than a small vent which allows air into the chamber, then the rubber boots, and eventually the carbs.

edit: I do have to say I was intrigued/impressed byt the design of the rubber "velocity" boots when I opened up the airbox. I didnt really have any ideas in my head as to what I would see insind but it definitely had more design influence than I expected to see. After that I understand why the pod filters would be more difficult to get to run correctly... They just are not refined enough compared to the design of the stock airbox to provide the same drivability.
I may eventually go back to a stock air box but for my goals now, what I have created works for me.
 
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Matt keep your stock air box and buy a drop in K&N filter. And if you go to an aftermarket pipe (I'm assuming you haven't yet) it is sooooo much easier rejetting the carbs.
 
The velocity boots keep pulses from adjacent carbs causing interference with air flow. they straighten the stream too. The airbox forms a capacitive reactive mass of air that dampens the engine pulses and ensures a stable supply of air is available.
None of that happens with pods, forcing a up-jet and radical changes to the mixture and air circuits. Eventually you can get it right and have worse mileage with minor increase in power.
 
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Its up to you if you wanna keep them or not. If you are going for the look, thats ok and your choice. Millions of dollars are spent on add-ons a year. My only issue with pods is they don't last very long, 2 years and my V&H pods are showing thin spots. The jetting isn't that hard to figure out, and without an air box it takes about 3 minutes to pull the carbs to rejet. I like my pods, I wouldn't go back to an air box.

Now with the stock air box, don't think thats will make it perfect, with todays fuels the stock jetting with an air box would more then likely need adjustment. Its all up to you, myself, I love the pods, for looks and ease of working on the carbs.
 
CCC-TT said:
I just cut off the airbox at everything rear of the tank so it is easily removable along with the carbs. Just covered up the large hole that was made and left a very small opening, about the size of the air opening in the stock airbox and she runs just like before. Used a screen filter as opposed to foam. Even checked the plugs after a good ride and they look the same.
It took some playing to get the size of the air opening correct but now that it is I'm happy with the results. Especially being able to easily remove the carbs from now on.
Click to expand...

What bike do you do this to?

The airbox on DannyMotor's and my bikes only has one chamber, so your word picture makes no sense to us. My guess is you have one of the hamster maze boxes I have seen on other GS models.
 
Its a gs550l. The airbox goes all the way under the seat where there is a filter box. Behind the filter is a seperate chamber leading to the entrance of the carb boots. This is the chamber I left on but cut off the part of this chamber that extends under the seat to meet the "filter box" part. Now it just slides out from either side of the bike without having to remove the seat and take off at least 8 screws and wrestle the thing out.
 
Real filters have rubber bell mouths in them as well. If you buy knock offs, not so much. Cleaning and properly oiling K&N filters is also paramount to both their longevity, and proper filtering and air flow. The drawback is that the bike will run leaner and leaner as the oil dries up. Things change, temp swings, humidity, etc play a factor. If you don't mind tinkering now and then, or don't mind not getting 100% out of the bike if you don't tinker, they can be made to work. But for an otherwise stock motor, and daily drive ability with little tinkering, stick with the airbox.

The HP gains from pods, pipe and a jet kit, while noticeable if tuned correctly, is minimal. The headaches for the non-tuner can be a turn off. If you plan to modify the engine, then it's a definite need. But, if not, it's a looks thing.
 
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