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At last! New problems?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
I spent two hours on Sunday running my bike down hills and trying a bump start. However, it didn't start. Yesterday, I went outside, prepared to take the carburetor off. Just for giggles, I decided to start it... and it started, for the first time since I got it. However, it only runs when the choke is all the way out, and dies when I rev it above 2,000 RPM (You can hear it bogging down as I rev it). Also, the petcock has RES>ON>(blank)>FUEL, when read counter-clockwise from 9 to 12. It seemed to run equally whether the selector switch was set to On or Blank. There is no Prime written on it.
Also, trying to take off the carburetor, it seems my progress is impeded by the airbox, and its weird square screws. I don't have any tool that will fit on the upper screws, nor the ones down in the bottom, so I can't take the carburetor off.

 
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No
Old problems you haven't addressed yet
Valves adjusted?
Carbs cleaned?
Top ten newbie mistakes addressed?

The video link doesn't work
 
Big T said:
No
Old problems you haven't addressed yet
Valves adjusted?
Carbs cleaned?
Top ten newbie mistakes addressed?

The video link doesn't work
Click to expand...

Try the video now, see if it works.

What valves, specifically, and where?
No, as I said, I can't remove the airbox.
What ten newbie mistakes?

I'm autistic, you have to be more specific in your replies, otherwise I try to extrapolate all possible meanings.
 
ZPS,

The GSR is the most complete self help forum on the net. As such, there is an expectation that you have poked around the forum and found the New Members, click here ! sticky

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/forumdisplay.php?101-GS-Owners

It appears that you have not, so, no problem, now you have some reading to do. Click on the links, especially the Basscliff website, which contain tutorials on what you need to do and how to do them. There are links to factory service manuals to help you find out how to service your bike.

You have purchased a 39 year old motorcycle that has been through a number of hands, and likely has a number of incorrect fixes occur in that time. We hope you have the expectation of wrenching on the bike yourself and bringing the bike back to a fully functioning machine. Plus, expect to spend some money doing this.

Ask any questions in the technical forums that you address what you don't understand.

Welcome aboard and have fun getting your machine roadworthy

And, while I have not worked on your model, typically you pull the carbs from between the motor and the airbox, then remove the airbox. Pictures are generally helpful, videos not so much.

So, post up a picture of where you're having trouble. Square screws?
 
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ZPS,

do read ... and reread ... and study the 10 newbie info.

ZombiePotatoSalad said:
............ However, it only runs when the choke is all the way out, and dies when I rev it above 2,000 RPM ...............
Click to expand...



classic symptoms of needing to clean the carbs.
and i dont mean just spraying some carb cleaner here and there. You can try spraying carb cleaner in there, might get a little improvement, but probably not.

If you study about the carbs, you will find that each carb is actaully 3 carbs in one. THere are passages and jets for low speed (idle), and then for high speed, and then for the choke (we call choke, but is actaully an enricher). If you have to keep the choke on to keep it running, that is because the choke circuit is working (at least some) but the others are not.

A real good cleaning is completely disassembling each carb, pulling out all the jets and soaking (submerged) in a carb cleaning dip for 24 hours or more. Is more to it than that, but just giving you an idea that it is more than just spraying carb cleaner here and there. Are a gouple guys on the forum here that offer that service for a fair price.

FOr some bikes to remove the carbs is best to take off the air box first, and other bikes can pull carbs back, tilt, and go forward without removing the air box (actaully need to remove carbs to get airbox out on those). I dont know about the 550.
THE screws I know of (850 & 1100) are on top of the airbox, some brackets-tabs to the frame. One tab is longer than the other, so air box comes out to one side, not the other. You are removing the tank first, are you not? Is easier to see the air box mounting with the tank off. And need tank off to be able to disconnect throttle and choke cable and such.
 
They don't get removed
You remove the bolt that goes into them
 
attachment.php


Like BigT said, "Not THose Nuts".

If take a little time and look closer, will see they are welded in place, so they dont turn when turn the screws/bolts. SAme as the one on the left side of your pic, is more obvious on that one.

I will also say this all looks different than the airbox on the 850G and 1100G I am familiar with. In fact, I dont even recognize it as an airbox ... ... so quess I will not say much else.
Other than, look for some brackets or tabs where is mounted to the frame.
 
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See !

See !

See what things you are learning.
Stuff you now know that didnt know just a short time ago .... ....

Keep at it. Lots of folks here willing to help (and most of them know what they are talking about).
 
Finally got that %#$! carburetor out. I had to fight it. Since I couldn't remove the plastic air box, I just wriggled it free. No tool I have could get to the bolts with room to move.
 
Perfect excuse to buy more tools
Do you have a set of JIS screwdrivers?
 
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Need money for that. I work 3 hours a day cleaning restrooms, and I donate plasma. Money comes slowly lol.
 
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