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Bad brake pads?

DimitriT

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I recently replaced my front brake pads (which had all but worn down) with a pair of Vesrah green performance pads. They looked idential to the original pads but I have had no end of trouble with them. Since installing the pads I found that they apply smoothly until about (what I consider) 60% braking power. At that point they start buzzing/grinding and the braking power seems to fall off. This is not a squeal, its definitely a pulsing buzz that's coming from those pads. I've tried cleaning them (with brake cleaner) and last night I carefully removed them and sprayed them down with cleaner. That seemed to have helped a little bit, but they still have this problem. It seems to get worse if I am riding on the sides of the tires (making a turn).

I'm tempted to ditch them and go with OEMs but I wanted to try the forum first. There's new fluid in the system and the brakes feel great (no squishiness). I changed the fluid and bled the system when I replaced the pads. The problem was not there with the old pads.
 
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I'm not a brake expert, but I recently changed the brakes on my wife's van with a "low dust" pad. The new pads are horrible - they act similar to pads on your bike.

Are your pads low-dust?

Next time, I'm going OEM - and let the dust fly!
 
I didn't see "low dust" anywhere on them. I just ordered some new EBC pads. Hopefully that will do the trick. The OEMs are $40 on Bikebandit while aftermarket pads seem to run in the low $20s.
 
I have EBC's on both wheels of my 550. They work fine, wet or dry. They don't squeal, chatter, dust up, or grab. Plus, they were cheap. And saved the day when a semi pulled out in front of me at speed and I had to haul the bike down from 70 right now.
 
The Vesrah Green Pads are non-asbestos organic pads. The Vesrah Sintered Pads are their high performance pads, and work very well under all conditions.

I got the pads from CRC2 which claimed they are the green pads on their web site, but now that I look at them, they are not the green pads but the SD-322 semi-mettalic pads.

In any case, they don't seem to work very well. I don't know if I screwed up the installation or somehow contaminated them. Or if they just plain suck. I wish I had saved the old pads to put back and test it out.

Hopefully the EBCs will take care of this.
 
Did you knock the glaze off the rotors prior to installing the new pads?
Did you knock the glaze off the pads when you had them off?
 
...It seems to get worse if I am riding on the sides of the tires (making a turn).


Why are you braking while "making a turn"?

Does it feel as though the brakes are pulsing more than vibrating? I had that on my 750TZ and ended up having to replace the front rotor because it had warped.
 
Why are you braking while "making a turn"?

Does it feel as though the brakes are pulsing more than vibrating? I had that on my 750TZ and ended up having to replace the front rotor because it had warped.


I brake when I'm making a turn in order to slow down. I'm talking about a shallow turn like on an exit ramp. When I apply the front brake lightly, I get the buzz much sooner than when I apply going straight.

It's not a pulsing sound. It's really a buzz.

Today I did a few controlled experiments and I was able to lock up the front wheel pretty easily (and get the rear wheel to almost break loose) at low speeds (like less than 30 mph). I'm still a little concerned with how effective they'll be on the highway if I have to stop. I'm already thinking to myself, I'll steer around it rather than stop. I guess the brakes work but the buzzing sound is disturbing.
 
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Did you knock the glaze off the rotors prior to installing the new pads?
Did you knock the glaze off the pads when you had them off?

Help me out here. Whazzit "knock the glaze off" mean? I didn't see any glaze. But maybe I'm not looking for the right thing.
 
To lightly sand or steel wool the surface to remove any friction/heat related impurities.
 
I brake when I'm making a turn in order to slow down. I'm talking about a shallow turn like on an exit ramp. When I apply the front brake lightly, I get the buzz much sooner than when I apply going straight.

It's not a pulsing sound. It's really a buzz.

Today I did a few controlled experiments and I was able to lock up the front wheel pretty easily (and get the rear wheel to almost break loose) at low speeds (like less than 30 mph). I'm still a little concerned with how effective they'll be on the highway if I have to stop. I'm already thinking to myself, I'll steer around it rather than stop. I guess the brakes work but the buzzing sound is disturbing.

I'm guessing that you checked all the bolts again, sounds like something is not tight or missing (?) are all the copper springs/clips in place?
 
Help me out here. Whazzit "knock the glaze off" mean? I didn't see any glaze. But maybe I'm not looking for the right thing.

Sounds to me like you have some chatter. Like suggested, lightly sand the rotors to get rid of the very shiny surface, and then do the same with the pads. For the pads, lay some sandpaper down on a flat surface, and rub the pads over the paper until you have fresh material exposed. This would also be a good time to clean all the slides and lube them with high quality silicone caliper grease. Don't get crazy with the stuff, if any of it gets on the pads they are junk. Also, how did you bed the new pads? I couldn't find a factory recommended procedure for this from suzuki, but basically you want to make a few aggressive rolling stops. Start at low speeds, and slowly work up to highway speed. Like 15 mph and stop. 30 mph and stop. Etc... Don't come to a complete stop inbetween, and try not to come to a complete stop afterwards until the rotors have had a chance to cool some.

I'm willing to bet that if you do this, the chatter will be gone.
 
When you sand the rotors, use a crosshatch pattern. Do not go in a circular pattern like the wheel rotates. Go perpendicular to the circle of rotation.
After you sand the pads, be careful to not touch the pad material. The oils from your hands will contaminate the pad material.
 
3M Scotch pads work pretty good too. In addition to what has already been suggested, I would also recommend you chamfer the leading edge of the pads with a file and put a slight bevel on them. I know you said they do not squeal but this will help make sure that it doesn't.

It wouldn't hurt to check the rotor with a machinist's straight edge, or something just as flat, to make sure you don't have a slight bit of warpage that may not be serious enough to feel pulsing.


I would be curious to find out if the pads alone made the difference.
 
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