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Bad Gas??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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My bike has been sitting for about a month and a half, the tank is 3/4 full, the bike sounds and runs like its on 3 cylinders. checked spark its ok, all 4 pipes are very hot immediatly. so i'm guessing its firing on all 4, but maybe thier is water in the gas, it's been thru 3 hurricanes recently uncovered? i know but cover blew off with the 50mph plus winds. any help? i'm gonna drain tank, and refill. can i get automotive gas treatment to dry out or no
 
Drain the floatbowls too and check the float valves/seat/screen for any junk. Any moisture get under the ignition cover? Might want to spray some contact cleaner and make sure it's real dry in there.
 
ok, i have the tank off draining out gas. should i start bike and runs till it dies to get all gas and water out. the ignition cover bolts are tight, but i guess it cant hurt to take off and spray with contact cleaner, just spray a little bit or alot?
 
bostrom155 said:
ok, i have the tank off draining out gas. should i start bike and runs till it dies to get all gas and water out. the ignition cover bolts are tight, but i guess it cant hurt to take off and spray with contact cleaner, just spray a little bit or alot?
Click to expand...
I would at least take out the float bowl drain screws. The bowls won't completely drain unless the screws are taken out.
Just spray enough contact cleaner to displace any moisture. It completely evaporates, so you can't really spray too much on.
 
Also, watch what comes out of the bowls. If there's water, you'll easily see it. That may be the only problem.
After priming the bowls and re-starting, if it still feels like 3 cylinders and you do have spark, turn the bike off and take out the bowl drain screws again. The bike needs to be on the centerstand BEFORE you turn it off for an accurate fuel amount check. Be careful to collect ALL the fuel that runs out of each bowl. If one of the bowls doesn't have as much fuel as the others, then I bet that carb has a dirty/clogged float valve/seat/screen.
 
ok the water is the stuff that is collecting together? i just drained a bowl, and its a little dirty. and like liquid clumping together darker than the gas, i'm guessing thats the water, i'm on my way to get some contact cleaner and just spray the bowls and maybe the exposed floats?
 
bostrom155 said:
ok the water is the stuff that is collecting together? i just drained a bowl, and its a little dirty. and like liquid clumping together darker than the gas, i'm guessing thats the water, i'm on my way to get some contact cleaner and just spray the bowls and maybe the exposed floats?
Click to expand...
Sounds like water to me and maybe some dirt/rust mixed in. Drain all four bowls.
By the way, after priming the bowls, always remember to turn the petcock lever back to "ON". Did you take out the drain screws only, or are you taking off the bowls too?
 
Also, it sounds like you may have junk in your tank that's reaching the carbs. Flush the tank out as best you can. See rust particles?
 
yes got 1 bowl off, just got back with contact cleaner and a angled screwdriver, its dirty gas, and rust, taking other 3 off now, going to clean and re install.shouldn't the petcock screen catch all these particles? or is that just reserve
 
bostrom155 said:
yes got 1 bowl off, just got back with contact cleaner and a angled screwdriver, its dirty gas, and rust, taking other 3 off now, going to clean and re install.shouldn't the petcock screen catch all these particles? or is that just reserve
Click to expand...
Ok. Since you're removing the bowls, here's what I'd do. As you remove parts, lay them on a clean surface in exact order, just as they came out. Keep each carbs parts seperated, don't mix parts from different carbs.
Put a large rag down under the carbs so you don't drop stuff and lose it. After removing/cleaning the bowls, take out the float pin and float, then remove the float valve and it's seat/screen. Clean the parts and look up into the carb to see if any more junk is up there. Clean all four and inspect all four.
Before you re-install the float valve assy's, put down more rags or a shallow tray and pour some fresh fuel into the fuel line to help rinse out any junk still in the carb passages. Also blow air through the fuel line, compressed air if you can. Then rinse again.
Now re-install the valve assy's. Don't over-tighten. A few ft/lb is enough. Re-install the inside (2/3) carb floats first and their bowls. Now install the outer floats and bowls and tighten things up.
Flush the tank as best you can. If it's rusting, it will need repairs to avoid this problem again. The petcock filter doesn't always stop fine rust particles. It should be cleaned too, along with the inside of the petcock. Remember, taking things off may create gasket leaks after re-assembly.
To do a complete job, you may want to get any gaskets/parts needed.
Inspect the fuel line and vacuum line, replace if cracking or hardening.
After it's all back together, prime the bowls, turn the petcock back to "ON" and start the bike. If the bike runs good, that's it.

I have to leave soon, so if the bike still has the problem, do this check.
Run the bike, on the centerstand always. Turn off and immediately drain one float bowl by removing just the drain screw. Catch all the gas in a seperate container. Now start the bike again for a minute, turn off and repeat this same procedure to the next bowl. Continue and do all four bowls and keep their contents seperate and in carb # order. The reason you should do one bowl at a time is because if you just turn it off and drain all four bowls at once, by the time you get to the problem bowl it may have filled up with fuel and give you a "false" amount read. If that bowl is not filling normally due to a fuel blockage, the fuel will slowly trickle through the blockage and give you a false read. The amount will appear Ok but in reality the bowl is not filling up fast enough to keep up with demand and fuel starvation results. Now compare the amounts. If one container has less fuel in it, then that carb is the one that's starving for fuel and not allowing that cylinder to fire good.
Because you cleaned everything, you should not see any amount differences. If you do, then you have more junk in the tank/petcock/carb body and you'll have to take things completely apart. Good luck! I'll check in later if you still need help.
 
thank you very much. been awhile since i been on, but you guys are the best
 
i need to finish up and get gas in the morning, got my fingers crossed
 
yea, i dont plan on letting her sit that long again i have an oil leak i am trying to fix, so it dosn't get rode much
 
drained the bowls in order, bike sounds alot better, have not rode yet, somehow i guess i stripped the bowl drain bolt?? no clue how that happened, tried all 3 of the others, no go. should i use something liek lock tite? or something else?
 
bostrom155 said:
drained the bowls in order, bike sounds alot better, have not rode yet, somehow i guess i stripped the bowl drain bolt?? no clue how that happened, tried all 3 of the others, no go. should i use something liek lock tite? or something else?
Click to expand...
Too bad about the drain bolt. At least the bowls can be drained by taking them off. The bad drain bolt may have been damaged by a previous owner?
The best fix would be to locate a used bowl. Some salvage yards sell seperate parts from "parts carbs". I wouldn't try loc-tite, is it even gas resistant? The drain bolt is a convenience bolt, so it wouldn't actually have to be taken off again. You'll need to get some gas-proof sealant and plug up the drain hole from inside the bowl.
I would apply some sealant to the drain bolt and install as best you can and then apply the sealant inside to seal the drain hole. JB weld might work too, but a non-hardening sealant would probably work better, as long as it's gas resistant.
 
Try "Seal All". It says it's gas/oil/solvent/alcohol resistant. It's used to repair gas tanks, among other things. $2 or $3 a tube. I've bought some for other repairs, worked good, but haven't tried it for this purpose. Allow it to dry like it says, I think it'll work fine.
 
i got a new bolt with a washer(metal with rubber on one side) no leaks yet, got my fingets crossed.
 
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