This guy did the same and has the same problem. Strange?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1662632&postcount=2
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Bad Stator - confirm?
- Thread starter allojohn
- Start date
This guy did the same and has the same problem. Strange?
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1662632&postcount=2
Bless us! Do you think the headlamp relay mod would help?
No, I've got hi/low. It is pretty bright though.
seems like you might be trying to power both at the same time
White wire is LO
Yellow wire is Hi
both should not be on at the same time.
No no, I've got hi/low using the switch. They're not on together.
But the headlamp is the problem. Now I've just got to figure out why.
LOL, I read a mod on this forum to do exactly that! I don't think they gave an estimate of battery life though.
N
Normk
Guest
Haven't read the complete thread but wondering if your alternator output is simply not sufficient for the added headlight load?
My old GS850G has only about a 20 amp total output so using a high output headlight bulb such as a 90/100 Watt would challenge the system's ability to maintain voltage. You mentioned aftermarket (ignition) coils which may also draw more than stock.
An common issue with motorcycle voltmeters is that they are often wire into the harness and so do not monitor the charging voltage but rather "see" the voltage following the quite large voltage drop inherent in most bike wiring due to the tiny wires used.
I've often measured over 2 volts drop between battery/VRR output and the headlight. Are you measuring voltage with a hand held voltmeter and across the battery?
Don't like to muddy the water when others are working on the problem but looked like there may be test result issues.
My old GS850G has only about a 20 amp total output so using a high output headlight bulb such as a 90/100 Watt would challenge the system's ability to maintain voltage. You mentioned aftermarket (ignition) coils which may also draw more than stock.
An common issue with motorcycle voltmeters is that they are often wire into the harness and so do not monitor the charging voltage but rather "see" the voltage following the quite large voltage drop inherent in most bike wiring due to the tiny wires used.
I've often measured over 2 volts drop between battery/VRR output and the headlight. Are you measuring voltage with a hand held voltmeter and across the battery?
Don't like to muddy the water when others are working on the problem but looked like there may be test result issues.
Thanks for that Normk but I am getting somewhere with this.
I measured the voltage with the lesser bulb attached, on and hanging from the connector and got a reasonable charge at 13.7. So I put the headlamp back together and guess what, the charge went back to 12.30. Took headlamp off and up went the charge.
I then wiggled the wiring in the headlamp and the voltmeter went crazy - from 11.** to 13.** and every number in between. Methinks I have a short!
PS All meter readings are across the battery.
I measured the voltage with the lesser bulb attached, on and hanging from the connector and got a reasonable charge at 13.7. So I put the headlamp back together and guess what, the charge went back to 12.30. Took headlamp off and up went the charge.
I then wiggled the wiring in the headlamp and the voltmeter went crazy - from 11.** to 13.** and every number in between. Methinks I have a short!
PS All meter readings are across the battery.
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Well gentlemen that fixed it. I'll do the Posplayr "Quick check" this weekend and post the results but once I'd fixed the ignition connector I got 14+ volts with the headlamp on - that's never happened before.
So it wasn't the stator at all..........
So it wasn't the stator at all..........
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