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Ball hone grit?

  • Thread starter Thread starter cdnoel
  • Start date Start date
C

cdnoel

Guest
Finally investing in a ball hone for my 1230CC build. Old rings from pistons and block were broken in to .45mm end gap but I ordered new ones just to be safe. Verified cylinders are fine and piston to wall clearance is fine also. What grit is ideal for the ball hone as everything from 180 to 400 grit is available for about $40.00? Rings are for Wiseco 1229 pistons and are 3032xc type with chrome break in layer on top ring and phosphate coated 2nd rings.
 
240 or 320


What GRIT should I order?
Hone grit is one of those topics that will vary vastly from OEM manufacturer, ring designer to professional engine builder and will depend on how bad the cylinder wear is and whether a deglaze will do the job . If you have a poor condition bore with rust or deep grooves you will need to use a 120 grit hone to remove the rust and remove the deep grooves. Then follow up with the appropriate grit depending on ring application. For a basic deglaze to refresh the engine just use the grit depending on ring type. EngineHones.com has built several engine mules (our guys race too!) to investigate the grit question with on-track results. The table below which was derived from our engines, ring manufactures and technical literature. Our best seller to commercial engine rebuilders and power-sports shops is the 240 grit hone. Our guidelines are as follows:

Iron Cylinder Ring Type:
OEM Iron rings: 180 or 240 grit

Chrome rings: 240 or 320 grit

Moly Rings: 320 or 400 grit

Plasma Rings: 320 or 400 grit

not sure ring type: 240 grit



Manufacturers Recommendation:

Hastings: 240 grit

Akerly & Childs (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit

Akerly & Childs (Moly): 400 grit

Perfect Circle (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit

Perfect Circle (Moly): 400 grit

Sealed Power (Moly): 400 grit

Speed Pro Hellfire (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit

Total Seal (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit

Total Seal (Moly): 320-400 grit

Harley Davidson(stock): 320 grit

Wiseco (chrome top): 320 grit

Mahle (Moly/Chome top): 280 grit
 
I just did my cylinders with 240 grit hone and 10w30 oil for tool and it went well. First time I did it and had to get hone tool from Amazon. Unfortunately the wash brush was $10 but $30 for shipping. I purchased a toilet brush that fit perfect into cylinders to clean them well after hone work is done.
Helps to watch a couple of videos on line to get some more ideas for proper hone procedure.
 
It is important to clean the cylinders thoroughly. After cleaning wipe with a paper towel soaked with ATF or WD40 and make sure there is no black residue left on the towel.
 
Hey thanks for the thorough reply's. I sure could have visited Wiseco and figured out that the 320 was the way to go. But asking here, I've gotten way more.

Having a little trouble getting the right rings right now. Seems the XC3032 rings, the ones I'm after and only have one set have the correct end gap. The ones that include the H code XC3032H have a newer style oil ring and the end gap is slightly wider.

Purchased three sets of the H code thinking they would be similar enough only to discover the end gap problem.

Purchase three more sets from ebay member garyhl2004 thinking I was getting the XC3032 code. They even have the picture with the old style oil ring. Well a sucker is born every min and I'm one of them.

When they arrived I discovered the H code, new style oil rings, and sure enough the end gap is too big.
 
103_5379.jpgThe end gap on the wrong rings is at .6mm on the top and second rings. The service limit is .7mm so if I install these I'm thinking they'll be beyond service limit by the time they break in. Heck the rings I took out were at .4mm so these new rings are worse than my old ones. I just cant see putting one set of rings XC3032 in at .3mm and the other three XC3032H at .6mm, that would cause problems of some sort?

Perhaps guys who drag race have been buying the H rings and not mentioning to the seller that the end gap is wider and he's selling the wrong part. I come along, not planning to put on a turbo or nitrous, and don't want wider end gaps, and become his first complaint on the matter. As it stands I think he'll try to charge me a 20% restock fee and expect me to pay return postage. I'll elevate the return to a complaint case at that point and see if E-bay will back me up.

Note the difference in the oil rings. If you are fishing for some of these on e-bay be sure to ask even if it looks like the seller has the right ones. The guy I bought from has the wrong ones but is still picturing the right ones. Perhaps he knows that no one will buy his rings for 1229cc if they think they are getting the H rings.
 
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How do I get this guy added to the dead beat files? He is still picturing the correct style rings for the Wiseco 1229cc kit but the style he sent me is not as pictured. He did reluctantly refund to me without a restocking fee but keeps refusing to update his picture. I think he knows that if he showed the style of rings that he is selling no one would buy them for the 1229cc Suzuki kit. I'm convinced that the style he sent me is for the FJ Yamaha big bore kit as every other seller in the US picturing the rings like the ones he sent me are only selling them for the Yamaha FJ big bore. He only has the XC3032H style that are not like the rings in his second picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231058791505?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
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