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nayasoldman
Guest
Does torqueing the head bolts on my 1980 850G help stop an annoying base gasket leak? A mechanic friend said it was routine maintainence on my bike, but I have no idea what to torque them to.
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Anonymous
Guest
It can help, but usually doesnt, depends on if it's sweating (not wetness, noticed it because the combo of dirt and oil drew your attention) or it is between a sweat and leak. Even if you can see wetness I'd ride it until it effects the performance or becomes obvious. If you do tourqe the bolts you'll spend a lot of time and I hope you already have a tourqe wrench. If not buy the cheapest. Also, I think I'm starting to sound service manual crazy, but buy the service manual it will have all the important tourqe settings. Dont forget many of the parts you'll be removing to get to the bolts have ratings also. Good luck.
Mark
Mark
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SqDancerLynn1
Guest
Head bolts 27 ft lbs the smaller bolts on the end of the head 15-17 ft lbs?
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Anonymous
Guest
Torque specs for a GS850G cylinder head:
Cylinder head nuts: 3.5-4.0 kgm
6 mm bolts: 0.9-1.4 kgm
You'll have to convert it to lbft; here's a conversion table:
http://www.hybridelephant.com/computer/helpdesk/convert/convert2.html
Just fill in the kgm numbers, click "=".
Cylinder head nuts: 3.5-4.0 kgm
6 mm bolts: 0.9-1.4 kgm
You'll have to convert it to lbft; here's a conversion table:
http://www.hybridelephant.com/computer/helpdesk/convert/convert2.html
Just fill in the kgm numbers, click "=".
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Anonymous
Guest
SqDancerLynn1 said:
That's correct!
Also, you're supposed to torque the bolts in a certain order. I don't have your manual, but you should start the order by torquing the bolts closest to the center of the head first and stagger (front to back) your way outwards. Torque the smaller outside bolts last.(Someone here may have the EXACT order?) Make sure you "crack' all the bolts loose FIRST (just a little) before re-torquing or you will get a false high setting. ALWAYS do this job on a stone-cold motor.
By the way, cheap "pointer" torque wrench's are a waste of money and can damage things. Buy a quality wrench that "clicks", the twist to set and lock type. Buy a good one and you'll never have to buy another one.
By the way, cheap "pointer" torque wrench's are a waste of money and can damage things. Buy a quality wrench that "clicks", the twist to set and lock type. Buy a good one and you'll never have to buy another one.
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nayasoldman
Guest
thanks all!
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Anonymous
Guest
First off - these bikes are OLD. The gaskets get brittle with age and temperature. It's questionable whether any retorquing procedure is going to stop a base gasket leak. Try it by all means as it's the easiest method and the first line of defense.
If you really want to stop the leak, a new gasket is the trick. Much more painful however.
If you really want to stop the leak, a new gasket is the trick. Much more painful however.
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Anonymous
Guest
I'm not sure I can agree 100% with you Keith on the bar type wrench, but you're right buy the best you can afford.
If you go with a dial type keep an eye on the dial. I'm new to the forum but not motorcycles, or engines. I can agree that if you plan to work on any engine/suspension internals on a regular basis you'll need two types of torque wrenches. 1. 3/8 Micro-Torque (ususal range 1.5 to 2.0 ft# starting, 20 to 25 ft# max rating). Craftsman makes an OK one for about $50.00 US. Many of the torque values on your bike are below 15 ft#. Also, another 3/8 in the 10-15 starting and 75-100 max. This should cover most the range on your bike. You can also pick one up around $50.00. Both types run from $50.00 to $250.00 here in California. Those would not be "Torque Limiting" like an impact gun only "Torque Sensing". Dial or breakaway (clicking) are sensing.
It seems excessive for someone trying to save a buck on an oil leak to spend even $50.00 on one tool. I'm still thinking ride it until it becomes a problem, buy the tools you need when it's time to rebuild. Remember, motorcycles have a wide range of torque settings, one type wont get all the ranges. If you've never done this type of work buy the pointer type for the head bolts. Only use the wrench to tighten never loosen. If you do plan to do all the work on your bike, invest a little at a time in a couple good ones. Oh, and yeah you really should bust the head bolts loose prior to re-torque. I might suggest to you that this forum is a great place to get info, however, starting a relationship with your local shop can be even better. Call one up.
If you go with a dial type keep an eye on the dial. I'm new to the forum but not motorcycles, or engines. I can agree that if you plan to work on any engine/suspension internals on a regular basis you'll need two types of torque wrenches. 1. 3/8 Micro-Torque (ususal range 1.5 to 2.0 ft# starting, 20 to 25 ft# max rating). Craftsman makes an OK one for about $50.00 US. Many of the torque values on your bike are below 15 ft#. Also, another 3/8 in the 10-15 starting and 75-100 max. This should cover most the range on your bike. You can also pick one up around $50.00. Both types run from $50.00 to $250.00 here in California. Those would not be "Torque Limiting" like an impact gun only "Torque Sensing". Dial or breakaway (clicking) are sensing.
It seems excessive for someone trying to save a buck on an oil leak to spend even $50.00 on one tool. I'm still thinking ride it until it becomes a problem, buy the tools you need when it's time to rebuild. Remember, motorcycles have a wide range of torque settings, one type wont get all the ranges. If you've never done this type of work buy the pointer type for the head bolts. Only use the wrench to tighten never loosen. If you do plan to do all the work on your bike, invest a little at a time in a couple good ones. Oh, and yeah you really should bust the head bolts loose prior to re-torque. I might suggest to you that this forum is a great place to get info, however, starting a relationship with your local shop can be even better. Call one up.
I was'nt necessarily trying to tell anyone to buy a $50+ tool to fix a leak.
I suggested it as an investment. I only give advice that I would follow. If there's one time I would not use a 'pointer' wrench, it would be when torquing the head. Also, I have to admit I would not try to do transmission or crank work, but anything else on my bike is mine. I feel no one will do as good or careful a job as I will.
I suggested it as an investment. I only give advice that I would follow. If there's one time I would not use a 'pointer' wrench, it would be when torquing the head. Also, I have to admit I would not try to do transmission or crank work, but anything else on my bike is mine. I feel no one will do as good or careful a job as I will.