• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Base gasket surface sealing after prev.owner gasket scraping ...?

Chuck78

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I'm putting together a budget GS750/850 engine here out of the best used parts I have without visiting a machine shop to get cylinders bored etc.
The cylinder I picked out of my 4 or so 850 jugs honed up really nicely & got rid of a few vertical score marks & rust stains without taking it much at all beyond new spec on bore diameter.
I resurfaced the deck on it, took 0.1mm off.

Base gasket surface is a different story...

Refer to photos & give me opinions...

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • media-1589734805342-May_16_2020_6_22_PM.jpg
    media-1589734805342-May_16_2020_6_22_PM.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 0
Previous owner did an impatient hack job on scraping the stubborn/stuck base gasket remnants off, and gouged it out in some areas. Looks worse in person, sorry my cell phone camera lens is very scratched/cracked & can't focus well anymore

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • media-1589734809935-May_16_2020_6_22_PM.jpg
    media-1589734809935-May_16_2020_6_22_PM.jpg
    87 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Keep in mind that these are the outside 4 corner stud areas, and the egg-shaped 2 at the rear double as the primary oil feed passages to the head. The 2 at the front are lesser pressure as they are after half of the oil has been delivered to the valvetrain

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • media-1589734800146-May_16_2020_6_21_PM.jpg
    media-1589734800146-May_16_2020_6_21_PM.jpg
    87.6 KB · Views: 0
Does anyone have experience with installing a cylinder that had some gasket scraping gouge damage like this? The marks that appear a bit wider are pretty noticeable, they don't look so bad in the photos but are worse in person.
Should I just put a dab of RTV silicone in these areas, & smeared on the egg-shaped oil pressure o-rings, & run it?
Or has anyone experienced a lot of leaking problems with similar?
 
Last edited:
I doubt those marks will cause an issue. I wouldn't use RTV but a light coat of Gasgacinch on the gasket wouldn't hurt. Be sure to use fresh OEM gaskets and O-rings too.
 
I doubt those marks will cause an issue. I wouldn't use RTV but a light coat of Gasgacinch on the gasket wouldn't hurt. Be sure to use fresh OEM gaskets and O-rings too.

Ahhh yes thank you Ed... I was worried about RTV on oil pressure areas, possibly flaking off & being fed through the oil passages...
I believe I have a similar product to Gaskacinch or Hylomar, the really REALLY tacky sticky gasket sealant stuff... Hi-Tack or something similar, from NAPA. I previously have only used it installing brass freeze plugs into water-cooled automotive engines. Seems the perfect solution here. Some leaked out in a milk crate on my shevles, & the whole crate was practically glued to the shelves afterwards...STICKY STUFF!


If I had a boring bar or more time to take to a machine shop, I would've chosen a different cylinder & bored to 870cc...
Was not really wanting to heat up & press out the sleeves to do a light skim on resurfacing the base gasket area...Thanks for the encouragement, Ed ��
 
Last edited:
After much careful soaking, waiting, scraping; more soaking, waiting and scraping, my base gasket area looked a bit like that. The old gasket had transformed into a Rockwell-graded hardness of industrial linoleum, fit to grace the hardest institutional floor.
A coating of spray Hylomar dealt with it.
 
I was going to suggest some Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker, as it is designed to fill in scratches between gaskets, but I see it has a 300 degree F upper range. These air cooled engines can get to those temps on really hot days, check the operating temps on whatever you decide to use.
 
Mine was a bit like that, must be four or five summers ago. I sprayed the base gasket with hi temp aluminium paint.
Can't say it wouldn't have been okay without. Just felt it needed a bit of insurance.
 
Several good recommendations here; overall it's mainly important that you DO NOT use RTV.


Personally, I would use a light coat of semi-hardening case sealer. It's done the trick for me in similar situations many times. As noted above, old base gaskets are damn near diamond hard and seem to be impervious to chemical attack. Scratches are close to inevitable.

Threebond 1194 has never once failed me. I guess it's been replaced with 1184:
https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Sealant-Liquid-Gasket/dp/B007TWXI1K

There's also a Yamabond case sealer that's pretty much the same thing and may be more easily available in your local dirtbike shoppe, and I'm sure Honda and other brands sell the same sort of useful glop under their own brand names.

You will NOT find anything like this in an auto parts store, but if you don't want to order online most powersports shoppes should have a decent brand of case sealer on the shelf.


As for the gaskets and o-rings, do NOT even consider using anything except genuine Suzuki OEM parts.
 
I've used a smear of Suzuki's 1207B in that spot with good results, but I think that counts as RTV.

John Pearson told me to use the green (fine) Roloc Scotch-Brite surface prep disks to get old gaskets off. That definitely reduced the number of scratches and gouges I made. 3M stopped making them, according to the guy at KOI (who had the part numbers memorized). The knock-off brands work. I've been looking for a new source, since I'm tired of getting the assortment pack from HF. I guess I'll have to order a box of them from Amazon next time.
 
I also do a very thin wipe of 1207B on base gaskets if they are perfect or not..by thin i mean just enough to see its there. Ive never had anything break off and plug oil passages or any other issues for that matter. Why do i do this?? Put together an engine and have that base gasket leak and youll know why.
 
Back
Top