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Basic Spark Plug Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter UncleMike
  • Start date Start date
I think opinion through experience is a welcome and positive plus in the forum.
I dont think I missed your point. Some things are more critical than others.
Generally, I'm fairly easy going about how to do things. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Some work better than others. If someone can do a job without risking damage and achieve the desired specs/results with non dedicated tools, I dont have a problem with that. Your information is correct, but it is not the only possible method to accomplish the task. Some members have a commercial grade shop, while others have a bare minimum of tools. The bottom line is getting the task done acceptably. I think giving the forum members a choice in methods is a good thing. Everyone can choose.
As far as I'm concerned, it isnt about who is right if both ways work. It would be nice if everyone had the exact tool they needed, but the reality is that people frequently figure out a way to make do with what they have.

I support your right to be as technical as you wish. hehehe

As for the age debate, I'm willing to concede you are MUCH older than I am. :-) :-)

Earl





Boondocks said:
Earl, I realize that an old guy like you (although not quite as old as me):-s might prefer old fangled procedures, but you have missed my point. The $2.25 gauge which you call a "special tool" is preferred not because it is easier to use (although it is), but because it is more accurate than a flat feeler gauge. Although your engine may not care about the midget, it will know the difference between accurately gapped plugs and those not accurate. I hate to be technical, but after all this is the Technical Forum. :)

To confirm that this is not simply my opinion and to avoid a "word war" I offer these quotes from the following links:
Click to expand...
 
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Another tool you might consider is a spark plug electrode file (or a plain old finger nail file). You use this to true the surface of the electrode. The electrode should be perfectly flat without any pitting or rounded edges. Pretty important if you're planning on reusing the old plugs.
 
Gapping

Gapping

SOoooo....If I were to gap a plug with say....4K miles and the round thingy has kinda round top do I measure it from the top of the 'head' or the rounded off edges??
Seriously....the gap in my experience doesn't need to be that precise, especially after a few thousand miles and the center rounds off and the electrode starts to get concave....What I do is if it calls for .032 to .034 , I go for the lower figure ,because in very little time it will pass thru .034 and be "Out of Spec"
________________________________________Rick........
 
Rick said:
SOoooo....If I were to gap a plug with say....4K miles and the round thingy has kinda round top do I measure it from the top of the 'head' or the rounded off edges??
Seriously....the gap in my experience doesn't need to be that precise, especially after a few thousand miles and the center rounds off and the electrode starts to get concave....What I do is if it calls for .032 to .034 , I go for the lower figure ,because in very little time it will pass thru .034 and be "Out of Spec"
________________________________________Rick........
Click to expand...

If you use a wire gauge the correct gap will be set even with a concave electrode. Using the lower spec is OK, and it will be an accurate measurement. This is an advantage of the wire gauge vs. a feeler gauge (which can't measure the concave area).
 
I don't even mess around with an electrode that is pitted, concave, convex, or whatever. All it takes is a few swipes with a spark plug file to square it up. I've never done a controlled test on a motorcycle, but I've seen the benefits first hand on a lot of small engine repairs. IMHO it's just one of those little things that help your bike start a little easier when the engine is cold and may even improve your gas mileage.
 
If memory serves me correctly a buisness card is .010 thick, hence 3 = .030 (it will work in a pinch)
with that said buy a $2 spark plug gapper at the auto parts, and steal a finger nail file from you significant other.
 
If your bike is a Suzuki using NGK D8EA plugs, your plug gap is between .06 and .07 which is exactly how they come from NGK.
 
I agree the wire type tool is best for accuracy and ease of use.
Now all we need to agree on is the e-x-a-c-t amount of resistance you should feel as you slip the wire under the electrode.:)
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
I agree the wire type tool is best for accuracy and ease of use.
Now all we need to agree on is the e-x-a-c-t amount of resistance you should feel as you slip the wire under the electrode.
Click to expand...

I went for slight resistance/scraping at .064 at the wire tool.
 
Can anyone tell me where to find what the recommended gap is for my bike? '82 Suzuki GS650GL. I don't have an owners manual.
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
I agree the wire type tool is best for accuracy and ease of use.
Now all we need to agree on is the e-x-a-c-t amount of resistance you should feel as you slip the wire under the electrode.:)
Click to expand...
a slight drag, or about 15-20 grams on a pull type gauge. :)
 
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