Battery not charging (GS550E 1980)

[ukjules]

I swapped out an engine for a new reconditioned one
and am almost at the end of running it in.
On 300 miles so far.

Battery bench charged and at 12.8-13v
when tested. Bike starts easily.
Test:
bike on - drops a few 0.1 volts
increasing revs to 4000 it makes no difference.
So no increase in volts.

Now I am sure this has just started to happen
as a week ago I did this test and volts on
battery increased with revs !! it's as if it
is intermittent bit now dead.
The battery also might not be perfect
but takes charge on the bench so surely
perfect enough for this test.

- just changed to my spare regulator.
a new one and no difference. (new one
doesnt have a sense wire)

Help . is it now the stater which is on the new engine ?
Any tests for a regulator or stator a hapless
electrical person can do ?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Quick test. Linked in my signature

 

[ukjules]

Thanks for quick test but you will note I have done
that already and am way beyond that in analysis.

The voltage does not increase with revs!
tried another regulator- no change

q) could a bad battery cause this? I.e
a gradual decline and then when doing said test
wont increase in volts and lights dont brighten?
thing is when bench charged battery ok for
20miles and then try to re start

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

You could disconnect stator from RR, test stator leg to leg, in 3 separate pairs, with bike running at 5000K RPM, you should get somewhere between 70-90 vAC, IIRC. If ok then test each stator leg to ground. Don’t remember but think it should read 0 or very low voltage.

 

[ukjules]

Ok will do this am tomorrow .

I have in my notes 3 tests like what you suggest.
I admit to being hopeless on electrics for various reasons
and never get the damned mm setting right.

test1:
testing ohms on all 3 stator wires
bike off
a-b
b-c
c-a
looking for consistency. what ohm setting on mm ?

test 2:
check to ground on battery each stator leg.
should be open, what is open on mm ohm setting ?
see I really dont get electrics !

test 3: one you just said....
disconnect stator from RR, test stator leg to leg,
in 3 separate pairs, with bike running at 5
000K RPM,
you should get somewhere between 70-90 vAC

my notes says tickover 15-20
and when reved 50-70.

mm setting AC / 200

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Here’s another link to a post by a previously active member who is sorely missed at times like this. Jim helped me a lot with my charging system.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...AW-of-Stator-testing&highlight=stator+testing

 

[ukjules]

Battery not charging:

- revving bike - lights do not increase in brightness.

- with bike running at increasing revs voltage remains the same at 12.* v on a charged battery.

- Test resistance on all stator wires disconnected, ignition off. 200ohm setting on MM.
a-b 6
a-c 6
b-c 6.3
apparently ok as looking for consistency?

- test each stator leg to ground on battery :
a 5.7ohm
b 5.7ohm
c 5.7ohm

- Test with engine running, stator wires disconnected from regulator ,
MM set for 200 ACV

test stator leg to leg,
in 3 separate pairs

2k revs
a-b 20
a-c 18
b-c 24

3k revs
a-b 28
a-c 25
b-c 41

4k
a-b 28
a-c 25
b-c 41

5k
a-b 30
a-c 30
a-b 47

my notes say idle should be 20v and when rev be 50-70v.
at 5k others say 70-90v !

So what's reckon?
is it the stator that remember is on a engine I have only run for 3o0 miles.... and I still have my old one.

one other thing battery in gsx - testing volts with increased revs does go up correctly .

 

[tom203]

Assuming your meter is good .....your results say your stator is no good...seems to be shorting out to ground.

 

[ukjules]

I reckon meter is ok. Tests ok on other bikes.
Assume it is.

Remember I am useless at electrics but
do you reckon next thing is to swap for my
old stater ? which always worked ?

or are there more tests / fixes
for what you say ?

cheers by the way all for advice.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Test - visually look at it to see how cooked it is

Fix - replace with a good one and be sure you have upgraded to a Series R/R like the SH-775

 

[ukjules]

Ok,

so the analysis you think means its cooked!
and a visual test along with the more detailed
test I have done would conform its bust ?

This being possible to see if I take it off .
and see some form of blackening?
Have we pics of a cooked stator ?

I will take off anyway and send pic of
mine and the one to put on.

Regulator:
I think my ones are ok.
One with a sense wire and one without
but have the standard bullet connections.

the sh 775, reg you say has connectors which
I most certainly dont have. I assume some
come with connectors.

q) what is so good about a sh 775 ?
compared to a stock one ?

 

[cowboyup3371]

There are over a hundred posts in the forum about how they work and why they are better. Seek and you shall find (using keywords like series or shunt regulator will help)

The connectors that go to the Stator can be bullets, spades or soldered. You can make your own connectors to fit the R/R side (can get a set from Eastern Beaver) or you can pick up the Polaris harness for a fairly reasonable price.

 

[allojohn]

All indications are your stator is cooked.

Only one thing caused the demise of your stator.
Your R/R is not OK.

As Cowboy says, read some of multitude of posts on this subject - why would your situation be different?

 

[tom203]

Here's tbe SH-775 explanation..
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?191795-GS-Stator&p=1630965#post1630965

looking at a stator ain't always convincing ....lots of eBay units are clearly cooked. But here's a pic of my previous stator that struggled to produce 13.5 volts. The pencil is pointing to a small fried area

 

[ukjules]

About to swap over stators.

Will post pics and analysis but as
my original never had this issue and this engine
looks like it always has had this issue
and my analysis kindly reported on by one ....
logically it has to be the stator.

P.s I write on this forum to help others
as issues are fixed. My posts on electrics will
help non electrical people.

p.s I see your point on making own bullet connectors.
yes I can do that and of course simply
cut off connector box and put on bullets ones
yes I could do that... if reg fails test later

 

[ukjules]

Right I'll update with a full analysis bit
I attach pic of my original thought good on
left and suspect 0ne on right that looks cooked !
blackened , hot smell ... (as I'm changing oil
and filter too and had to warm bike up).

Never really seen in the flesh a cooked one
but as you say it is clear when you do and compare
to a known working one

.

 

[tom203]

Neither of those stators look good..even if left one works now, you?ll be replacing it soon...especially if you stick with a shunt r/r

 

[ukjules]

ANALYSIS:

With known to work old (very old
poss original) stator with increased
revs it increases voltage correctly.
and
new regulator.... came from uk company
but know nothing of it bar that it has no sense wire.

So I am back on the road.

test 1 on new stator: engine off.
200 ohms on MM
leg to leg
a - b 23
a - c 23
b - c 20

test 2
each stator leg to earth on battery at 200 ohms
on MM
a - 1
B - 1
c - 1

So that is the difference if res isn't 1
then it ain't gonna work ?
knackered one showed 5.7 ohms

test 3 - didnt do as it clearly works

(also 320 miles after running in oil change
and filter done)

- anyone be intersted in the test 3 on each leg
with increased revs ? to see difference
from working to knackered one ?

- if anyone is on the ball ... how much a stator cost ?
I wont know till tonight and you lot
ain't covered in oil as I am.

 

[Gorminrider]

- Test with engine running, stator wires disconnected from regulator ,
MM set for 200 ACV

test stator leg to leg,
in 3 separate pairs

2k revs
a-b 20
a-c 18
b-c 24

3k revs
a-b 28
a-c 25
b-c 41

4k
a-b 28
a-c 25
b-c 41

5k
a-b 30
a-c 30
a-b 47

These are poor results. All three "legs" should be very near the same and also, voltages are all low ESPECIALLY if the stator is an original to the Suzuki, the which, in particular should read very near 70-80vac. Other makes of stator may read slightly lower.

That said, given a working regulator, and good magnets on the rotor, this stator may still supply some little bit of "charge" but not enough to run the ignition,headlight,brake light,turn signal and as well replace the battery charge lost to starting the engine...

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I bought this Electrosport stator from Amazon for $80. Not sure about ? conversion. It was much cheaper than direct from ES. Amazon said it wouldn’t fit my bike. ES confirmed it would. And it did. No idea if this one would work on your bike, but check fitment for yours on electrosport.com