Been gone a bit but its time1150 rebuild( earlfor may like)

[bybowtie]

Well I have given up.. The welds haent held on my starter clutch.( lasted
2 starts..)Now that I have settled in to my new digs I have come to the conclusion I need to teasr it down and replace starter crank end..

Just a few questions,nothing too involved I hope.
1. What is the BEST(read easiest I have a bad back) to get this hulk out ogf the frame? I have thought to lay it on its side but havent figured the rest out lol...Still gonna havve to lif something lol...

2. In reading the manual(factory) I get a real thorough Idea of what is required but is there any "short cuts" as It is only the crank end in question not head rings etc....

3. What all is required in rebuilding this area and are there any items I need to look out for?
4 Other than Falicon,(way to expensive for what I have noticed; 1400 just to press and balance) who out there does the finishing.Can I just take it to a machine shop?

5 The most important...Anyone wanna come help..I have a great vew of the mountains and am literally 5 min from Blue ridge parkway(skyline drive)...Oh well I tried.......

Any help would be great!

 

[earlfor]

Re: Been gone a bit but its time1150 rebuild( earlfor may li

Re: Been gone a bit but its time1150 rebuild( earlfor may li

My back is pretty bad also. Although I can pick up an engine, a further back injury is not something I can risk.

I tried the "on its side" method with an 1100. I did not find engine removal particularly easy. Then I thought about what it would be like to re-install the engine with the bike on its side and how difficult it would be to not scratch anything up on a freshly painted frame and gave up that approach.

I have also tried (with bike on centerstand), multiple jacks, blocks and a dolly, thinking to block and jack the engine up a little at a time and "walk it onto a dolly. Thats tedious and difficult due to the frame in the way of where you need the jacks for balance to keep the engine straight and level so if will come out of the frame. I didnt like that method either.

The final solution.............
I bought a 110v 880 lb capacity electric winch from Harbor Freight for $39.
Then went to Home Depot and picked up four 2 x 4's eight feet long and one 2 x 6 eight feet long, a small box of 3" drywall screws, and a piece of 1/2" plywood 24" x 48". I made a plug together "A" frame to hang the winch from. To pick up the engine, I have a 10 foot length of 1" wide tie down strap that is tied into an endless loop. one end of the loop goes around the stator cover, the other goes around the ignition cover. (kind of like a bow with the loop on each side around the covers. The winch shackle hooks over the straps centerline over the engine. Press a button on the winch control to lift the engine. Then slide the empty fram on its centerstand out the side. Re-installation is the same. Pick up the engine, slide the frame under it. Zero back strain. In fact, the only effort is on my right thumb from pushing the winch control button.
I also made a 2' x 2' dolly so I could lower the engine onto it and roll it around the shop easily.

You may be able to turn the engine upside down and get out the crank from the bottom. I have never tried it, so cant say for sure. Hap or Dink would probably know though.

Earl

Just a few questions,nothing too involved I hope.
1. What is the BEST(read easiest I have a bad back) to get this hulk out ogf the frame? I have thought to lay it on its side but havent figured the rest out lol...Still gonna havve to lif something lol...

 

[Dink]

I relied upon the "sheer brute force method" ot remove my motors ( I am 6'3" and approx 230lbs) I reckon Earl's method certainly sounds the go, Also you can turn the engine upside down to get at the gearbox etc, but you cannot remove the crank, as you have to remove the cylinder head and block to remove the pistons before the crank will come out. Replace the bearings the gearbox shafts run on , it makes a huge difference to engine smoothness, gearchange and clutch pull as well, my Katana is as light as Jeans 250 now.
Dink

 

[Anonymous]

overhaul

overhaul

If your going for the crank your going to be taking it all apart may as well tear it down in the frame, you have to get the wrist pins out to pull the crank, and would be a pain to do thru the bottom plus breaking loose some of the major large size nuts you need to have it in the frame with the chain on for it to be easiest with out spec. tools, I would shop around for a used crank with documented miles if possable, what most crank rebuilders get is more than the bike can be replaced for given parts and labor, I am going bye my 1000 that I did the trans bearings

 

[bybowtie]

I appreciate the replies.. I could trythe brute force method(as I have in the past I too am 6'3' 210) but I recently broke a few bones in my back and am rehabbing sooooo not one to ruin a good thing I think that Earls deal may be a go..
As far as the crank deal goes I had an offer from a shop(Earl you may remember them from a few of our phone calls lol) that quoted me the 1400 plus whatever labor would be involved in r&r of the rest of the bike and I couldnt just go for it,sounded way high..
The other thing is from some folks I have talked to and delt with this may be a big bore or stroked engine and the crank may be completely different from the norm. Also I have had only one shot at a crank on ebay (several moths ago) but I fell asleep and thusly forgot....Oh well thats my luck.
Hey anyone want to come play?!?!?!?!
BTW Earl I never made the move to FLA, The hgouse we all but bought was one of 2 untouched by the canesin the its little neighborhood..I felt why tempt fate so now I live at the base of the Blue Ridge Mtns....Good riding though If I ever get it running!!!!!