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best 24 hr carb soak

  • Thread starter Thread starter newgsman
  • Start date Start date
N

newgsman

Guest
can anyone tell me a good 24 hr carb soak to use or are they all basicly the same?
 
Some are finding that the Yamaha brand (is that the one that's water-soluable?) is working OK, others still swear by either Berryman's or Gunk brands.

.
 
Berryman's is the best if you can get it. It's outlawed in places like California. :rolleyes:
 
Berryman's Chem Tool "B9", the stuff that if you get it on your hands your hands will "reeek for a weeek!" is getting hard to find here as well.

The new stuff does okay, but anything that is/was good in the past is usually deemed bad by someone who knows what's good for you.
 
thanks all, found some berrymans chem tool, so i will try that. my fingers are crossed. thanks again
 
I just looked at the Berryman site and did not see exactly what you should be looking for, but I did find this.

What you are looking for is Chem DIP, not Chem TOOL.

It is a gallon-size bucket with about 3 quarts of liquid in it, along with a basket to carry all the parts you are dipping.

.
 
I used Gunk Hydro-Seal with good results. It ate through my nitrile gloves in about 15 minutes and removed the silicone the PO had put on the choke plungers.
 
Steve said:
Some are finding that the Yamaha brand (is that the one that's water-soluable?) is working OK, others still swear by either Berryman's or Gunk brands.

.
Click to expand...

Yes it is the one that is water-soluable. I drop the carb bodies in and within 30 seconds you can see gunk surfacing. I love it
 
im not familiar with the yamaha brand. is it in a gallon can with a basket like berrymans, and what is the average price?
 
spyder2120 said:
im not familiar with the yamaha brand. is it in a gallon can with a basket like berrymans, and what is the average price?
Click to expand...

Its in a quart, like an quart of oil, the place here sells it for $7.99 or something, just a bit under $10 bucks. You mix it 2 water to 1 dip, so total of 3 quarts or more depending on strength.

The only drawback I guess is getting rid of it when you are done since it isn't self contained. But I buy a tupuware box about the size I need so I can dip the carbs, put the lid on so it don't splash out when I slosh it around once and a while.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/boat/apparel/apscitemdetail/3/124/all/1/322/detail.aspx
 
Last edited:
thanks for the info. i'll try it in a few years when my berrymans is done for. just bought the can at the start of the season and only used it once(hate to waste money). lol. but i will definately give it a try. just a side thought... i saw a gallon can of pb blaster. i know it kills rust, but since i saw it i wonder if it would clean carbs. probably not.
 
Please be careful storing your Berryman's. There is a warning on their website, not sure if it's also on the can, but don't store it on concrete.

There is a bit of electrolytic action due to the chemicals in there, and it's enhanced if the can is on concrete. :eek:

.
 
Steve said:
Please be careful storing your Berryman's. There is a warning on their website, not sure if it's also on the can, but don't store it on concrete.

There is a bit of electrolytic action due to the chemicals in there, and it's enhanced if the can is on concrete. :eek:

.
Click to expand...

OK, what is the connection between concrete and electrolytic? I keep hearing people and batteries and concrete?

Are you all from the moon?
 
81gs1100 said:
OK, what is the connection between concrete and electrolytic? I keep hearing people and batteries and concrete?

Are you all from the moon?
Click to expand...

No, we are not from the moon. The moon has been scientifically proven to be made of cheese, so storing a battery on the moon would be no problem, no concrete.

Now here on Terra where concrete has been running more rampant than kudzu in Georgia, it has been scientifically proven that storing a battery on concrete has...

DRUM ROLL, PLEASE...

No effect at all. http://www.powerstream.com/Storage.htm
(you'll have to scroll down a bit.)

BUT...

THIS IS THE DISCLAIMER:

Ever since I was a wee chile I heard never store a lead acid battery on concrete...and I never do.

I also subscribe to the hollow earth theory and hot water freezes faster than cold. :eek:;)
 
hey guys, actually found some chem dip, have the carbs in them now, but i am apprehensive, i cant believe that after 3 thorough cleanings they arent clean. mabye berrymans chem-dip will make me a believer! i hope so
 
jimcor said:
No, we are not from the moon. The moon has been scientifically proven to be made of cheese, so storing a battery on the moon would be no problem, no concrete.

Now here on Terra where concrete has been running more rampant than kudzu in Georgia, it has been scientifically proven that storing a battery on concrete has...

DRUM ROLL, PLEASE...

No effect at all. http://www.powerstream.com/Storage.htm
(you'll have to scroll down a bit.)

BUT...

THIS IS THE DISCLAIMER:

Ever since I was a wee chile I heard never store a lead acid battery on concrete...and I never do.

I also subscribe to the hollow earth theory and hot water freezes faster than cold. :eek:;)
Click to expand...

The only reason I don't store my batteries on the concrete is because I don't care to bend over and pick them up. I was wondering how concrete effects the carb dip in the message below.
 
newgsman said:
hey guys, actually found some chem dip, have the carbs in them now, but i am apprehensive, i cant believe that after 3 thorough cleanings they arent clean. mabye berrymans chem-dip will make me a believer! i hope so
Click to expand...

Chem Dip, my bad I get them mixed up sometimes. :o

But, B9 was the good stuff.

I bought a six pack of spry carb cleaner in the cans from walmart to spray into all the little passages, and scrubbed them off with a old toothbrush before spraying off the outside of the carb bodies..

Just don't leave them in the chem dip for more than a day. It will turn the aluminum parts black. :mad: I forgot on of the float bowl caps in the basket, which got double dipped.
 
well igot the stuff and i will let you know if that stuff did anything, at this point i just want it to run correctly. thanks
 
I don't subscribe to the 24 hour carb dip methodology. As mentioned, long exposure turns the carb bodies dark plus their are rubber seals around the throttle butterfly shaft and long exposure to that caustic sauce can't be doing them any good. In my experience about 8-12 hours is plenty of soak time unless the carbs are exceptionally crusty. The key to getting a good carb rebuild is to fully disassemble the carb before dunking the parts. In particular, the pilot jets, needle jet, and idle mixture screws all need to be removed. After dipping, soak the carbs in water to rinse them off followed by blowing drying in some way - compressed air works well but a leaf blower will do.:) After blowing most of the water off hit the carb body and all the passages with spray carb cleaner to make sure all the various passages are open. One of the critical things is to hold the pilot jets up to a light to make sure the orifice is open. Do all this stuff, and replace all the various o-rings and you will be able to do ONE carb rebuild, instead of doing the job 2, 3, 4 times as we often read about here. Short cuts are long cuts so take your time and do the job right or you will be doing it again.
 
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