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Best procedure for re-torquing cylinder head on a 750

  • Thread starter Thread starter rwcfrank
  • Start date Start date
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rwcfrank

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My 750/850 hybrid rebuild is running like a dream but has a slight leak near the smaller 6mm bolt in the front near the cam chain tunnel. I have not re torqued the head yet so I am hopeful that will cure the issue. I used all OEM SUzuki gaskets but would like to know the best procedure and how many miles should I ride before the retorque? DO I simply loosen the nuts in the order of the tightening sequence and redo the same pattern? WHat about the smaller 6mm bolts, do they get tigthened first or last? All help is apreciated as are opinions.
 
Sounds like a stupid question......but its not! Lol
I have a leak too after my full 1100 rebuild.
One thing I do know is manual said retorque and check valves 600 miles after new gaskets.......
Personally I think my leak is from previous gasket removal damage/nicked up surfaces.
I will be curious to see what the " long timers" suggest for retorque and leaks.
 
you should back off the bolts slightly, not slacken them off completely. just back them off enough so that when you retorque again the bolt has to move before the correct setting is made.
do them one at a time, on a cold engine, the same order that is recommended in your manual.
do the 6mm bolts last of all, as the bigger bolts will pull the head down tighter than a 6mm bolt would.
 
I would like to add, if I may, to the advice Agemax has given you. If it has been any length of time since you first torqued the head, add a few drops of a penetrating oil to each cylinder head and nut before you loosen them.
 
Thanks gentlemen, I used a drop of anti sieze on each nut/bolt to be sure the torque spec's were acurate. Is it okay to retorque after only a half dozen heat cycles?
 
Okay so I retorqued per the manual to about 28-29 ft pounds but there is the slightest seepage still around the front of the cam chain tunnel (right near the small 6mm bolt) should I retorque again after a few miles to a slighly higher spec or am I destined to replace the head gasket? It is a OEM Suzuki gasket BTW
 
you could go slightly higher than spec, it wont hurt. the 6mm bolt at the front, tighten VERY carefully by hand, more than the torque setting but not to much.
 
To my utter disbelief, my 1100e engine just stopped leaking. I had retorqued the head a month ago to no avail in stopping the leak.
This whole time I thought it was my new OEM gaskets on my engine rebuild.
....nope. After better inspecting the tensioner itself , I found it to be the culprit. Somehow the wind causing it to blow forward and leak all down the front of my engine and everywhere else too. The bike was leaking like a stuck pig, so I was "sure" it was the head/ base gaskets. Its amazing to not have a single drop or weeping spot anymore.
Not saying this is your problem but I could not believe then tensioner was causing this mess I could not find.
Double check at least. I hope things work out for you.
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I checked and its 100% the head gasket near the front. I will run her for a bit and try one more higher poundage head torque, this sucks since the rest of the motor is bone dry and it runs like a raped ape. Second question is will I have to reset the valve lash or can I call it good with a new gasket?
 
rwcfrank said:
Thanks for the advice guys, I checked and its 100% the head gasket near the front. I will run her for a bit and try one more higher poundage head torque, this sucks since the rest of the motor is bone dry and it runs like a raped ape. Second question is will I have to reset the valve lash or can I call it good with a new gasket?
Click to expand...

no, you will not have to touch the valves, until its due for another clearance check..........:lol:
 
When I did the top end on my "G" I re-torqued the head 4 times before the values remained constant.
 
The pipe is a custom made with a VH front fabbed mid pipe and shortened late model can.
 
How frustrating, seems like the leak has migrated to the base gasket now. But the good news is the head gasket stopped leaking. Oh well, they both have to go anyway.
 
rwcfrank said:
How frustrating, seems like the leak has migrated to the base gasket now. But the good news is the head gasket stopped leaking. Oh well, they both have to go anyway.
Click to expand...

are you sure the base is leaking and it is not residue oil seeping down from the leak that was above it?
 
Yeah, I have been watching carefully and its definetly the base gasket. It's just barely weeping, any chance it may stop on its own?
 
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