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Big end Rotor Conundrum

niclpnut

niclpnut

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Need to get my 1150 motor buttoned up.

Next thing on the list is installing the starter clutch/rotor. I'm just concerned about the condition of the 3 rotors I have available.

1st rotor:

temporary_zpszyozd7zf.jpg


First lip is smooth, then some galling about a 1/4 o the way down.

Crank end it came off of:

temporary_zpsafwa5om8.jpg


2nd rotor:

temporary_zps0s1ggv4v.jpg

temporary_zpsxrijwrto.jpg


Taper is perfect, however I'm seeing some deterioration of the bonding agent holding the magnets. I can chip it off in a couple spots.

3rd rotor:

Similar condition to the first



Opinions or comments welcome.

Thanks,

Nic
 
Last edited:
It probably go hot due to the shunt regulation. For example 1150's are known for burning stators. I would highly wire wheel any of the loose stuff and call it good. If you are anal, you could apply a little high heat epoxy over the area you cleaned.

Make sure you get a SERIES R/R.

I'm also doing a SSPB run at the moment.
 
Thanks Pos. Kinda what I was thinking regarding heat. I've got everything but the SSPB for the 1150.
 
niclpnut said:
Thanks Pos. Kinda what I was thinking regarding heat. I've got everything but the SSPB for the 1150.
Click to expand...


Consider how black a lot of stators are that show up. That little bit of browning is nothing like that. Apparently, the rotor is so thick at that point that it is able to wick away heat sufficiently well to avoid severe overheating. Similarly, the lip is open enough that the oil and air keep it from frying.
 
Got it Ray. Thanks. What's your opinion on the two rotors with the bit of galling on the tapers?

Nic
 
Hi I think a super fine valve grinding compound and lap taper back into compliance, just keep from bearings perhaps tape piece cardboard over the bearings with some plastic . Lapping was a common thing years ago on these tapers. Mike
 
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