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Bike runs bad at low rpms popping and backfiring

  • Thread starter Thread starter Speedy7722
  • Start date Start date
Speedy7722 said:
Ok I went out and pulled the carbs and attempted to remove the valve cover put it is stuck pretty good. Any tricks for removing it like heating or beating? haha, and to use carb dip do I need to totally dissasemble everything in the carbs that i can and should I remove each one from the rack or can I leave them attached?

I just changed the oil the other day and even the old oil looked pretty good and was not "watery". So do you think after I install an on/off fuel valve I should change the oil again?

Thanks for your help everybody.
Click to expand...
Smell the oil if you smell gas change it;)
 
Use a rubber mallet on the valve cover and don't get wild with it. It will break loose. Once it is off, make sure the contact surfaces are clean, be careful and don't gouge the surfaces. Break up the carbs from the gang rack. Check the fuel needle and seat while the carbs are apart. Down load the carb rebuild instructions, lay out your parts and orings and make sure you have everything you need. 24 hrs in the carb dip is usually enough time. Looks at your intake boots, those probably need changing as well now. Follow the advice the guys have gave you here and you should be fine.
 
I usually stick a hammer handle in under the cover and pry up against the engine fins..pops loose real easy. And I was thinking tonight at work..youm said the cans are rusted thru in places? get what they call muffler tape and patch them. Cols air getting sucked into the hot exhaust will / can cause popping to some extent as well.
 
Valve cover finally came off with a little effort. Now I just got to get ahold of some more feeler gauges and carb dip!

Thanks for the advice everyone.

And I will also see what I can do about patching the exhaust. The owner before us attempted a patch job but it was pretty much useless when we bought it so we just tore it off. Hopefully, when I get everything adjusted and put back together she runs like a new machine!
 
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There are a number of tiny air passages between the carb bell mouths and the progression holes at the butterflies. These get clogged and the pilot jet can't flow even if they are clean. There is a very good section on how those carbs work in the GS850 manual on Cliff's site. Those symptoms are classic for pilot circuit problems. The emulsion tubes over the jets can get munged up too. I have gotten numerous carb sets, but not all, cleaned and working fine without dipping them. One thing is to spray carb cleaner into the three holes in the pilot circuit that you can access, and make certain that it sprays out of all the other holes. You can spray into the air jet in the belmouth, the air screw hole where the needles are, and the pilot jet holder. You can't spray into those tiny holes inside the body above the butterfly. I'll bet there are clogged passages in the bodies.
 
850 combat..take a lighter and ever so easily heat the red plastic tube that comes with most spray cans about 1/2 inch up from the end and gently and slowly bend the straw to get it as close to a 90 as you can. Sticking a somewhat thick soft wire ( think breadtie but a bit thicker here ) into the red straw will help keep the hole open as you bend it. Let it cool in place and then remove the wire. Now you CAN get a great angle to spray from the throat side of the holes.
 
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AND....You can do basically the same thing with some vinyl hose that will fit on the tip of your air gun so you can stick it tight to the mholes and reverse some air thru them also.
 
Well I got a break from school earlier to check the valves and they came out in spec, now just have to order a new petcock rebuild kit, valve cover gasket, and a couple other things.

Smelled the oil and sure enough, smells of gas, so I will change that again.

Now moving on to the carbs and see what happens.
 
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