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Bike runs great on side stand, sputters and dies when it leans right

  • Thread starter Thread starter cp___32
  • Start date Start date
cp___32 said:
I have seriously just about had it with this bike.
I took the carbs off and readjusted all the floats, put them back on and I have the same issue.
I am getting spark at all four cylinders. Checked and there is no spark leakage doing the spray bottle test. I was using a funnel with plenty of fuel to eliminate the petcock or a plugged tank. Carbs were just cleaned and rebuilt. Brand new gasoline.
There is nothing I can think of that changes between running on the side stand and leaning the opposite way except fuel flow but if the floats aren't to blame then what? I really can't keep throwing new parts at this thing. Besides most parts on the bike are new now and I am not going to just start replacing new parts with other new parts and hope I luck into a solution.
Click to expand...
have you checked the spark while the bike is leaning to the right? to see if good spark is still getting to all four. As it is leaning left.
 
Yes, when it's on the side stand all 4 plugs fire wonderfully. And when leaning either direction the voltage to the coils remains consistent (consistently lower on the left, so I'll fix the faulty wire). So My next stop is the signal generator. Not quite sure how I'll test it yet, but maybe I'll grab a test light and do the initial setup while on the side stand, and then confirm everything when it's tilted the opposite way. See if the light when it's at TDC goes out when it tilts.
 
Brendan W told you the problem was with your ignition; probably coils and most likely wiring and not the coils themselves. Your different voltages the coil connectors is odd as voltage just comes down from the kill switch on one line and then just splits and heads into the two coil connectors. Since you have swapped the coil position and problem moved, wiring from coil connector to coil isn't the issue so look at the connector upstream from your points or igniter or whatever is there. I have found that Suzuki connectors can push out a pin when taken loose and reconnected and if you are not paying attention only a little bit of pin will touch the female part of the connector and you will have sporadic connection. I don't want to downlplay the miserable coil voltage especially on the one side and it needs fixed but I would take apart all the ignition connects and reconnect them working back towards the points cover and pay attention that none of the pins gets pushed out.
 
dantodd said:
does this work? I know you can switch 1 with 4 and 2 with 3 because it's a wasted spark system but wouldn't you be firing at the wrong time if you switched 2 for 1 or 4 and then 3 for the other?
Click to expand...

Not really that clever was it ? :)
Anyway just keep changing things until the problem moves.
 
You don't have to move the coils if your spark plug leads are long enough. Just swap the wires coming from the ignition and of course, the bike won't run because the plug wires are on the wrong spark plugs but.... as I said, if the plug wires are long enough, swap those as well...
 
More progress. I fixed the issue with the intermittently shorting O/W wire between the disconnect under the tank and the coil terminals. Found that the insulated spade connectors I had used originally were arcing so I swapped them out for tighter fitting non-insulated ones. Double checked the coil resistance (primary and secondary). I can't recall the exact figures but were something like 4.X ohm each between the spades and 17.X Kohm on the plug wires with the caps removed. Like I'd read, the coils are fairly robust so no surprise there. I fiddled A LOT with the ignition timing on the bike before I realized my spade connectors were suspect. I would get it so the test light would never turn off, then that it would never turn on....finally set it though, so the test light comes on at the full advance mark when the rotor is fully advanced.

I started my spark check once again while tilting the bike side to side, but ran out of battery juice in the middle of the test. All seemed well though so once I get back Sunday night or Monday night I hope to fire it up and see how she does with fuel.

One thing I did notice that struck me as a little odd was the coils were heating up while the ignition was on and the kill switch was set to run. They were both getting to about 150F at their peak. Anything I should be worried about there? I would have thought heating due to a poor connection with the spades but it was still heating up with the new ones on there as well.
 
When coils are energized, they HEAT. They are cooled by air (if you can believe the position they are in under the tank) when the bike is moving. If the bike is sitting and they are energized and HEAT which you have observed. They can fail if the key is left in the on position indefinitely but there are other components that may fail first; generally the battery will just discharge before a lot of damage is done.
 
I once had the insulation wax (?) in a coil melt out when I inadvertently left the key in the ON position overnight. Left a nice white mess down the outside of the engine.
 
I got back to it today. It seems that the contacts for the O/W and W wire on the Molex connector of the SSPB are loose and making intermittent contact. The problem has returned and I can't seem to find a happy place for the harness where it will work. I can put a spare plug into the plug cap and rest it on the engine and as I wiggle either wire in the Molex, I'll get a spark on the plug. The O/W wire in particular is heating up as it comes out of the Molex connector.

I've tried taking out the pins and bending the tabs further out hoping they wouldn't slide in and out anymore but that didn't work. Any advice on tightening up the fit between the male and female contacts so they don't slide in/out or move around? If tilting the bike while it's turned off is going to cause them to stop working, I have no doubt when the vibrations of a running engine are introduced it's going to get worse.
 
Either solder the connections or go get flat tab connectors and solder those. If you really really want the connector you can buy pins or whole new connectors. Personally, I would replace the connector with flat tabs
 
Solved!
I had a chance to play around with the bike again tonight. Decided to loosen the pickup for the left coil (the one with the white wire) and move it a little closer to the rotor on the Dyna-S. Got much better spark (now equal with the other side) and the bike now fires on all 4 cylinders!

The left pickup is a bit closer than the right, but since it works I'm not going to worry about it.

Now onto the next issue, but that's for another posting!

Thanks everyone for all your help!
 
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