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Guest
Guest
You want a "L" model????:shock::-$=;
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whiteboyslo
Guest
+1 on ditching the Fram filter. that made the difference between my bike starting at all and running like a champ after i changed out some ignition parts last night.
Mike
Mike
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Guest
Guest
I'll sell you mine for $7000.
HMMMM...:-k You know how I like a "Bone Stock" bike...yours is completely stock, RIGHT? :wink:
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Guest
Guest
Absolutely!\\
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bradleymaynar
Guest
Okay, since it hasn't been mentioned, beyond the petcock rebuild. FLUSH THE TANK!! What I'm hearing in your posts is that this is definitely a fuel starvation issue. While the PC may be clogged, I'd lean more on the intake tube in the tank. My opinion is that you've got sediment in the bottom and that it's clogging the intake tube.
To flush, remove the tank and pour as much fuel out as possible out of the filler hole. Then, while the tank is on the side away from the PC, remove the PC and drain the remaing fuel. While the PC is out, check the intake tube for sediment. And also check, as best you can, to see if you have any rust spots inside the tank.
It may also have been possible that sediment that could have slip passed the intake and PC was blocked by the filter. Since you've removed the filter you're allowing that sediment to get into your carbs. This could eventually lead up to clogging passages in the carbs.
This is only my opinion, but I went through this before with an old Honda after I failed to seal the rusty tank and had it die on me after short distances because the rust particles would clog the intake tube in the tank.
Brad bt
To flush, remove the tank and pour as much fuel out as possible out of the filler hole. Then, while the tank is on the side away from the PC, remove the PC and drain the remaing fuel. While the PC is out, check the intake tube for sediment. And also check, as best you can, to see if you have any rust spots inside the tank.
It may also have been possible that sediment that could have slip passed the intake and PC was blocked by the filter. Since you've removed the filter you're allowing that sediment to get into your carbs. This could eventually lead up to clogging passages in the carbs.
This is only my opinion, but I went through this before with an old Honda after I failed to seal the rusty tank and had it die on me after short distances because the rust particles would clog the intake tube in the tank.
Brad bt
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whiteboyslo
Guest
any more advice on how to flush the tank? what should i flush with? more gas?
also, what can i do to remedy rust in the tank? mine has a little i can see when i fill her up.
Mike
also, what can i do to remedy rust in the tank? mine has a little i can see when i fill her up.
Mike
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Guest
Guest
Do a search for POR-15 on this site and google.
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gs550gk
Guest
I had a similar problem on my gs1100gk. Look for a dead short somewhere in your harness. Could be something as simple as a bad wire on a brake light, or a driving light as was the case on my bike.
I didn't notice anywhere in your posts how many miles you have on your '80 GS1100L.
You did mention that it has always been difficult to start. Have the valves ever been adjusted since you've had it ? If not, it needs to be done. That rare 16v 1100 motor has tappet type valve adjusters that are easy to keep adjusted and should be done every 4-6 thousand miles.
You also mentioned you cleaned the carbs. Did you just spray 'em down with some cleaner ? It may be a good time to tear 'em apart and do a deep cleaning and replace the o-rings. Especially if there was crud in them. Also check the float heights while you're in the carbs.
Get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Read the stator papers, read the stator papers again. Take your new multimeter and a copy of the stator papers, your favorite beverage and spend some quality time with your bike. She'll thank you for it.
The best thing about all these things is that they are all right here !! Use the search function. Go to the "in the garage" section on the home page. And ask questions if you can't find the answers. They'll be someone here to help. Keeping your bike in good repair with your own hands is almost as enjoyable as riding it. And you'll know exactly what's happening under you butt at 70 mph.
You did mention that it has always been difficult to start. Have the valves ever been adjusted since you've had it ? If not, it needs to be done. That rare 16v 1100 motor has tappet type valve adjusters that are easy to keep adjusted and should be done every 4-6 thousand miles.
You also mentioned you cleaned the carbs. Did you just spray 'em down with some cleaner ? It may be a good time to tear 'em apart and do a deep cleaning and replace the o-rings. Especially if there was crud in them. Also check the float heights while you're in the carbs.
Get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Read the stator papers, read the stator papers again. Take your new multimeter and a copy of the stator papers, your favorite beverage and spend some quality time with your bike. She'll thank you for it.
The best thing about all these things is that they are all right here !! Use the search function. Go to the "in the garage" section on the home page. And ask questions if you can't find the answers. They'll be someone here to help. Keeping your bike in good repair with your own hands is almost as enjoyable as riding it. And you'll know exactly what's happening under you butt at 70 mph.
Man,
Any update?
Man, where in general are you located?
Yes, you will want to get the bike home, and work on it yourself. Any little repair or two at a shop (if there are any that will work on it) could just about exceed the value of the bike. I assume you got an older bike out of concern for cost. That and you like the older bikes. Anyway, if you pay someone to do this kinda work, you might as well have gotten a newwer bike that came with a monthly payment book and full coverage insurance. Learn a few things working on this problem, then you will be in better position for other situations that may occure.
In your discussion of hard to start and your discussion of someone suggesting replacing the stator... in all those discussions you havent mentioned any battery voltage readings. You will want to have a volt meter (multi meter actaully so can check continuity also). Check battery voltage with bike at idle and bike at mid rpms (4-5k), then you will have some idea of if charging circuit is working or not. If not working, then have to have the meter to check indivdaul components and wiring of charging circuit (per Statar papers).
In your discussion of the fuel filter and cleaning the carbs... you didnt mention the little screens that are in each carb (on 8v engines anyway) above the float valve needle. Those are pretty fine and dont take much to block them.
Tell us more what you find. Lots of folks here willing to help (and the only motorcycle activity available at the moment for some of us).
.
Any update?
Man, where in general are you located?
Yes, you will want to get the bike home, and work on it yourself. Any little repair or two at a shop (if there are any that will work on it) could just about exceed the value of the bike. I assume you got an older bike out of concern for cost. That and you like the older bikes. Anyway, if you pay someone to do this kinda work, you might as well have gotten a newwer bike that came with a monthly payment book and full coverage insurance. Learn a few things working on this problem, then you will be in better position for other situations that may occure.
In your discussion of hard to start and your discussion of someone suggesting replacing the stator... in all those discussions you havent mentioned any battery voltage readings. You will want to have a volt meter (multi meter actaully so can check continuity also). Check battery voltage with bike at idle and bike at mid rpms (4-5k), then you will have some idea of if charging circuit is working or not. If not working, then have to have the meter to check indivdaul components and wiring of charging circuit (per Statar papers).
In your discussion of the fuel filter and cleaning the carbs... you didnt mention the little screens that are in each carb (on 8v engines anyway) above the float valve needle. Those are pretty fine and dont take much to block them.
Tell us more what you find. Lots of folks here willing to help (and the only motorcycle activity available at the moment for some of us).
.
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I bet he got it home already, and maybe even fixed by now.
It was a year and a half ago!
Who dragged this thread out?
