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bike wont start just click an then dead

  • Thread starter Thread starter clancey g
  • Start date Start date
C

clancey g

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bike is 1984 gs1100g, all ive done since rode it after a long trip was replace rear wheel and clean spark plugs ( took tank off), i did move wire bundle around near battery. ive read all the posts i can, im not to good with electrics. so far ive cleared all the terminals replaced a few dogy one's in head lamp bucket, taken off the earth down on back of motor and cleaned it and every earth and connection i can find. symptoms are it will get power and can switch on head light green neural and instrument cluster all light up as well the horn works Until i press the starter button then there is a small distinctive click sound and then there is no power at all for a few mins then power to instruments neural green light head lamp ect comes on untill i press start button ( kill switch is on) and then there's a click again and it goes dead for a few min's/ ive just arced the 2 poles on the starter solinoid with a screw drive and it did not start with power even with kill switch on and pressing button it did not fire up. it has a new ignition switch months ago. Ive been up all night and day working on it and its same as it was. what does bridging the starter solenoid and it not start indicate ?, ive got a large agm battery in it thats fully charged, ok thank clancey.
 
Bridging the starter solenoid ( connecting the two large studs together briefly) should cause the starter motor to spin regardless of ignition switch, or kill switch, or starter button positions. It just feeds battery positive direct to starter motor. (make sure you are in neutral and/or on centerstand ). If starter doesn't spin, then your battery is really weak and/or starter motor is locked.
You said the lights went dim when you pressed starter button- as Ice asked, any noise from starter at that time??
 
battery terminal/s are dirty or corroded and /or battery weak/bad
 
Put a multimeter on the battery side of the solenoid. It should measure 12V. If it measures 12V, hold it there while you press the starter button. If it stays 12V, it is your starter or your solenoid. If it drops significantly, move up to the battery. Clean and tighten the positive and negative terminals on the battery. Clean the connection where the negative battery cable connects to the frame. Repeat test. Report results.
 
ok thanks every one, ill do that tomorrow, need new multi meter. i did get a new starter solinoid, same posts and wires not off a gs it should work the same, no the starter wont spin. one comment below "where the negative battery cable connects to the frame", i did not see that i was looking following unwrapping all messy loom junctions inspecting and cleaning it and re-wrapping as i went.the negative batt cable goes down to back of motor, which ive cleaned. will update tomorrow when i get a meter.
 
Someone has changed the negative cable then. The way it should be wired is this:
Negative terminal goes to a bolt on the frame. Motor has cable from where the negative cable is currently to the same bolt on the frame. This could be the issue right here.
Negative cable --> frame bolt
Engine bolt cable--> frame bolt
You will need another cable to do this, but it may solve the issue.

Think of it this way: everything: solenoid, R/R, turn signal, is grounded to the frame. The battery and the engine should also be grounded to the frame.
 
Most of my bikes have two wires attached to the negative terminal of the battery.

One is about a 14-gauge wire that goes to the frame, the other is about an 8-gauge wire that goes directly to the back of the engine.

.
 
I have 3 ground wires all 8 gauge wires. One from the battery to the engine, one from the R/R to the battery and one from the R/R to the frame.
 
Hi,

Start here: Diagnosing Slow Cranking. Then have a look through the other electrical tips and guides on my website. You may have a charging system problem. Once you have verified that you have a good, fully-charged battery, test the stator and r/r units. Make sure ALL of the electrical connections and grounds are clean and the system is thoroughly tested before you start spending money on parts. A new stator can be had for $85-$140 and a good used r/r unit for about $20-$50. If you must replace your battery I would suggest a good AGM type unit.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
koolaid_kid said:
Put a multimeter on the battery side of the solenoid. It should measure 12V. If it measures 12V, hold it there while you press the starter button. If it stays 12V, it is your starter or your solenoid. If it drops significantly, move up to the battery. Clean and tighten the positive and negative terminals on the battery. Clean the connection where the negative battery cable connects to the frame. Repeat test. Report results.
Click to expand...

ok got basic multimeter put on batt 12.45v put on 2 posts then put on solenoid posts 12.34v, pressed start button 4.5v then sound like a click again although that time instrument cluster red green lights stayed on rest was still dead. ive put a few more 50amp earths to frame even tryed extra to motor, all same result. even tried the new starter solenoid," non standard one" and got same result, so went back to original one. Then pulled spark plugs side cap off and turned motor by hand it all moves freely, nothing binding, i can get batt properly tested while im at work tomorrow, batt place is next door, got to get some shut eye, found more dodgy wiring, post pic tmoorow. i do have a complete brand new gk wireing loom i got off ebay, would like to find problem first and im completely lost with wireing, am i missing what everyone's posts have asked ?, thanks clancey. i did pick up this from op shop $29.00
xDGBy.jpg
:)
 
Last edited:
Clancey, just out of curiosity, have you tried using jumper cables to your car?

Make sure your car is NOT running, just connect the cables so you are using your car's battery, along with the bike's.

With the voltage drop you mentioned, I am suspecting a bad battery, the jumper cable test could help verify.

.
 
I agree, Steve. It appears that battery has voltage but no current. A competent auto parts store can also test the battery for that condition.
 
Steve said:
Clancey, just out of curiosity, have you tried using jumper cables to your car?

Make sure your car is NOT running, just connect the cables so you are using your car's battery, along with the bike's.

With the voltage drop you mentioned, I am suspecting a bad battery, the jumper cable test could help verify.

.
Click to expand...
not yet i was thinking of that,ill have a crack at it tomorow night, 2am eeekk :rolleyes:.
 
Just a guess here, but I'll bet your system is overcharging and your battery has boiled down to where the (now warped) plates are exposed

Pull the battery out and check the fluid levels
 
Big T said:
Just a guess here, but I'll bet your system is overcharging and your battery has boiled down to where the (now warped) plates are exposed

Pull the battery out and check the fluid levels
Click to expand...

ok still no go got batt tested at battery place to day, i know the guys personaly, they said all good for 3 yr old batt, its a agm gel batt, its big one had to enlarge battery holder to fit it. im still not conviced its good, so put car batt on it an test tommorow, im not sure if click is coming from starter solenoid, around the batt area, unless its short/ arc sound ill try it in the dark tomorrow. ok onto test the stator and r/r units ?, looks like my Rectifier does not have an earth from it,the wires go up into the loom, well take look at it again later,ok thanks.
 
barnbiketom said:
battery terminal/s are dirty or corroded and /or battery weak/bad
Click to expand...

I second this. From what I'm reading this still has not been checked (I may have missed it). Your battery seems to be good.
Check you connection at the battery, that means the terminal, cable and connection of the terminal tot he cable (Look for fraying of the cable).

This will take you 2 seconds and a $1 wire brush with some type of cleaner.
 
now that the bat has been disconnected, taken to store and checked.. maybe it will be resolved since the connections on it have been taken off and refitted!!
 
will clean up the earth wire, still the same, put car batt on as well, same result. so batt is good.
 
Process of elimination:
Battery tests good
Solenoid replaced by new one, same results
Solenoid jumped, same results
Grounds cleaned up and rerouted, same results
The only thing left in the circuit is the starter itself.
 
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