• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Black fouled plugs, good compression, hard starting the longer it sits

  • Thread starter Thread starter pbdavey
  • Start date Start date
P

pbdavey

Guest
I tried to put as much concise info in the title. I have a 79 550 that needs a plug chaser on #3 apparently (and maybe a shop vac - what happens if I got any slivers in the combustion chamber?).

That aside, all 4 plugs are fairly black, replaced earlier this year. It does seem to be harder to start as it sits longer (> week), but maybe I'm imagining. I'm in the middle of compression tests which I think will all be okay. The ones I've done are already have okay compression but black plugs still. I haven't finished because of the #3 plug threads. Now there's some oil out on the outside of the head, so I'm starting to wonder if I just need to do my valves and replace my valve gasket...does this sound like a rational solution at this point?
 
Hi Mr. pbdavey,

When I used a thread chaser on my #2 cylinder plug hole, I put axle grease on the end. Then I took it slowly, a couple of turns at a time, removing the chaser, cleaning the end, re-applying the grease, then continuing. The aluminum shavings should stick to the grease as you clean the threads.

If you do happen to drop a shaving or two into the cylinder, it's not critical. They should burn and be exhausted.

When was the last time you checked the valve clearances? This should be done every 4000 miles. Are the plugs fouled with fuel or oil?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last valve clearance is unknown. I'm not sure how to tell oil or gas...it's a dry black, not a wet black...here's some photos...the second is no flash so it doesn't wash out how black it is.

IMG_1872.JPG


IMG_1878.JPG
 
Dry, black fouling is usually from an overly rich fuel mixture. Check the air box and cleaner to be sure you're getting good air flow. A thorough carb clean is almost always necessary on these old bikes. If you don't know what the valve clearances are, you need to find out and yes, you'll need to change the valve cover gasket. Might be a good time to get your head around the fact that there is no quick and simple fix to making these old bikes right. Takes time, A LOT of patience and good, old fashioned hard work.

Good luck.
 
I was hoping to make it through the season without riping everything apart...oh well!

* Clean air filter
* Clearances
* Rebuild carbs

This will cost a pretty penny :eek:

Thanks guys!
 
Probably not it, but are those plugs the recommended heat range for your bike?
 
pbdavey said:
I was hoping to make it through the season without riping everything apart...oh well!

* Clean air filter
* Clearances
* Rebuild carbs

This will cost a pretty penny :eek:

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Maybe a valve cover gasket and a bucket of dip, $30 or so total?
 
Shims at $7 a piece. Manometer (whether homemade or prefabbed). Maybe intake boots for $25 ea. and their o-rings cuz I can't get them from the nice guy at cycleorings. See, money can pile up on this ;).

I believe the plugs are the correct NGK plugs .
 
pbdavey said:
Shims at $7 a piece. Manometer (whether homemade or prefabbed). Maybe intake boots for $25 ea. and their o-rings cuz I can't get them from the nice guy at cycleorings. See, money can pile up on this ;).

I believe the plugs are the correct NGK plugs .
Click to expand...

Buy your o-rings from an engineering supply if Mr Barr does not supply those and use the swap club to swap out shims. The intake boots if required unfortunately will cost you about $25 each, unless they are reusable and not stiff and broken.
Good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top