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Bleedin' brakes!

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldrookie
  • Start date Start date
O

oldrookie

Guest
Been working on the brakes. I wasn't having any trouble with them, but wanted to add stainless lines and to replace the rubber bits in the caliper.

So far:

Cleaned and rebuilt the caliper
Pulled the MC off and cleaned it

I've read the threads:

1. Did the squeeze, open, close release dance--no joy
2. Pulled out the Mighty Vac and cranked it up--same result

I can't get the brake lever to stiffen up. Much softer than it was with the old rubber line and old rubber parts.

It is sitting out in the garage with the lever pulled back and tied down. Hoping that trick will let the air bleed, but seems like a last resort.

Any thoughts as to what I ought to do next?
 
keep pumping, fresh lines take forever to fill. I usally fill the calipers before I start.
 
So far I've run entire bottle of DOT 4 through it. Any thoughts on how much it ought to take?
 
Entire bottle should do all the brakes and have left overs. Still got some air someplace I would say. Did you use new crush washers on the banjos bolts?
 
Maybe it is your master cylinder. Did you hose it out with some sort of solvent?

Solvent, even brake cleaner will sometimes distort the rubber seals.

If your not getting air with your vac pump I would think the problem is the master cylinder. If fluid is escaping around the seals inside the master cylinder it will not build pressure.

I am an automotive mechanic and have seen on several occasions if the brake system goes dry due to a leak the master cylinder will not build as much pressure when refilled. Usually its because someone has been letting it leak and adding fluid until they get it fixed.

Sounds like you did it all correctly and if there are no leaks at the caliper banjos or master thats the only other thing it could be.

I always let gravity do the work for me. Put a small rubber hose onto the bleeder, crack the bleeder open, have a few pops and check it.
 
Did you prime the MC before hooking up the lines?
Did you clean the bleeder-nipples before attaching a might-vac to them?

If your bleeders are clogged, rusted or loosened too much, you can end up pulling outside air threw the threads, instead of sucking air out of the lines.
 
Well, that could be the issue. I did spray the MC down with brake cleaner.

With the top off the MC the second hole shoots fluid into the air quite nicely.

I am getting air with the vacuum pump and I think the hose is tight around bleeder nipple. Can get to 20 psi vacuum and the needle drops only very slightly on the pressure gauge.
 
1_v8_merc said:
Did you prime the MC before hooking up the lines?
Did you clean the bleeder-nipples before attaching a might-vac to them?

If your bleeders are clogged, rusted or loosened too much, you can end up pulling outside air threw the threads, instead of sucking air out of the lines.
Click to expand...

I did not prime the MC before hooking up lines. Didn't see any mention of that process in the procedures, but perhaps I read too quickly.

Could be the bleeder threads are too loose. Saw Ed's (?) suggestion to put teflon tape on the threads after I had filled the system.
 
If it was me, I would take out the bleeder nipples, be sure they are clear, then use some anti seize or teflon tape on the threads to help seal them. Air will get sucked down the threads most times. Then I would pump the mighty vac till the suction guages is almost pegged and crack the nipples open ..WAY OPEN and shut before the guage is all the way down. I find that if you do the way open method a few times it really sucks a lot of the air out of the lines faster and easier. Then tie back the handle overnight.
 
I 'm telling ya this is not uncommon with fresh dry lines...keep going
 
Well, I'm gonna call it for tonight. I'll let it set overnight and get back to it after work tomorrow.
 
Absolutely use ant seize or tape on the bleeder threads. Even Vasoline or wheel bearing grease.
 
I had the same problem with my mity vac, until I wrapped the the bleeder threads with plumbers tape. Cost me a second can of brake fluid, but lesson learned.
 
Sounds like good advice. I did get better results today after strapping the brake lever down overnight. Better...but not great. no brakes until the lever is halfway back....strong then...but not right.

Soon had a track meet tonight...so no work tonight.

Will update later.
 
The saga continues.

Tried several ways of bleeding the brakes with no improvements. I had resisted buying the MC rebuild parts, but I put the order in today.

But, as always, nothing is quite as smooth as all that. Tried to buy them from Boulevard Suzuki through their online service. Their system keep insisting that my email address had already been attached to their system (it had, I ordered some parts before) and that I needed to login.

Problem was that I had logged in. First thing I did! So I tried four times. Entered all the info and hit confirm order only to be told I needed to log in. I gave up.

Westfield Suzuki on the northside of Indy had been giving out $25 gift cards at the Indy motorcycle show and I hadn't used mine yet. Decided to drive up and place the order and see what I could get on the gift card. I've been thinking that narrower bars might be a good idea for more extended rides and decided that Superbike bars might be interesting. Like the dirtbike bars I have on it, but they really turn me into a sail at highway speeds.

Went up, ordered the piston and cup set, got a set of Superbike bars for free and headed home. Checked my email and found a "Thanks for ordering" note from Boulevard Suzuki. Uh. No. Cancel that.
 
Pretty much where I am on this one. Had hoped it would be a short job, but I tend to learn the hard way at times.

Pretty sure the caliper is okay. Certainly aren't any leaks from it. No apparent leaks from the new stainless lines, so about the only thing left is the master cylinder.

It will be 3-5 business days until the parts get here, so hoping for early next week. My spring break next week and I really want to get this resolved so I can get some seat time in.
 
Great customer service from Ashley at Boulevard Suzuki. Canceled the order and refunded the money.


Now just waiting for the parts to come in at the local shop.
 
Quick update:

Let it sit for several days with the brake lever tied back. Now working appropriately, but will still be replacing the piston and cup in the MC later this week.

Put the Superbike bars on (got them free with a $25 off anything card I got from the dealer at the Indy bike show last month,) stainless steel line has to be adjusted, but feels pretty good now.
 
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