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Bleeding brakes not working!

  • Thread starter Thread starter CharlieM
  • Start date Start date
C

CharlieM

Guest
The front brakes worked fine when I stored the bike 3 years ago.

I found now that I have no front brakes, lever goes to bar.

I went out and bought a bleeder/vacuum tool. The master cyl was almost full, topped that up, and proceeded to bleed the right caliper. After more then an hour, and many pumps to 20Hg on the guage and opening the bleeder screw, got 2 or 3 drops of fluid in the container. Went to the left caliper, nothing.

The whole time creating the vacuum, if there was a leak, I think I would have seen fluid somewhere. The fluid level in the reservoir never changed, and if there was a leak in the system, I would think that the vacuum pump wouldn't mantained the vacuum level until I opened the bleeder, and then drop down.

I hope I'm making sense.

Could it be the master cyl, and if so, can it be rebuilt?
 
if you open the bleeder valve and pull the lever does fluid come out of the bleeder valve, and how much...

and bleeding should be started on the left side, then right side, and if you have anti dive system start on the left anti dive unit, then the caliper, and then move over to the right.

sounds like you have some blockage somewhere, if you open cap on the reservoir and pull lever do you see any air or any fluid moving....

and just about everything can be rebuilt

.
 
Sounds like the system is sludged up. The small breather hole in the master cylinder most likely.

I suggest you break down both the calipers and master cylinder and clean them out. Look for pits on the caliper pistons and inside the master cylinder bore. Replace the brake lines too. A full system tear down like this is the only way to remove all the sludge in the system. You could do a short cut clean out of the master cylinder but I don't recommend that as that won't properly clean the system.

If you need new seals or a master cylinder kit, Suzuki OE parts are far superior to aftermarket brake system parts.

Good luck and hope this helps.
 
GateKeeper said:
if you open the bleeder valve and pull the lever does fluid come out of the bleeder valve, and how much...

and bleeding should be started on the left side, then right side, and if you have anti dive system start on the left anti dive unit, then the caliper, and then move over to the right.

sounds like you have some blockage somewhere, if you open cap on the reservoir and pull lever do you see any air or any fluid moving....

and just about everything can be rebuilt

.
Click to expand...

That was the first thing I did when I discovered that the brakes weren't working! No fluid from either bleed valve

I don't remember any movement or air in the fluid.
 
Sounds like your going to follow Nessism's recommendation and do a full tear down of calipers, and master cylinder, flush the lines as well.
 
I would prefer to just get the brakes working well and safe enough to be able to ride to a shop, and let them do what they have to!

Knowing me, if I have to start taking everything apart, it's going to end up in a big cardboard box.

I haven't ridden in 3 years, and would rather ride then start on a project that may never get finished:(
 
If there is crud in the lines, or calipers, or MC, your not going to have brakes.....you will not be able to ride the bike anywhere

take apart the 2 calipers, and the master cylinder, and replace the rubber parts, if need be, have a look at them, maybe you don't need them, maybe you do.

the work involved can take a couple of hours at most and fairly easy, there is nothing hard about it at all....

or take all the parts off and take to your shop and have them deal with them, bring them home bolt them back on, and add fluid, bleed, and ride....

.
 
The bike is better in a cardboard box for a little while than wrapped around a tree and you in hospital.

Please take the time to repair your brakes.
 
I got you!

But can I do this instead, and use process of elimination, by starting with the master cyl?

It seems clogged with no response. I could take that off, and clean it, and try bleeding the brakes again. That seems were the problem lies, because I can't get any fluid at all. I know this maybe half a$$, but will get me on the road.
 
At the risk of sounding like a parrot, you shouldn't do this half assed. Your life can depend on those brakes. By all means start on the master cylinder but you can't stop there. If the master cyclinder is gungy then dollars to donuts, the calipers are going to be like this:
cal1.jpg


That is rust forming from water trapped in the old fluid. Given time those pistons could lock solid in the bores. You may even have a locked piston already and fixing the m/c is not going to help that.

As the guys say, it is not a difficult job and you can do it. It is also expensive to have the shop do it so if you must go that way do as suggested and take the parts off the bike and in to them to safe yourself some cash.

Please listen to what we are telling you and don't become another statistic.

Good luck,
Spyug
 
Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It will absorb moisture right out of the air. Usually DOT3 and 4 brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. However by sitting around and not being used the brake fluid breaks down to goo and the contaminated brake fluid contains water which contributes to corrosion which seizes the caliper pistons. The goo is what is clogging your brake system. Some of the goo can be flushed out and some performance restored. But the brake will still feel mushy or even worse the brake performance may be insufficient. That is why we all are suggesting a full break down of the braking system.

To answer your question... yes you can clean the master cylinder and try bleeding the brakes again.... But at the very least you should flush the lines out as well as the calipers and master cylinder. Fill with fresh fluid and bleed the system. Braking function may return but it will never perform well until you are able to break down the master cylinder and calipers to scrape out the goo.
 
Last edited:
try removing the bleed nipples completely and see if you can squeeze any fluid out then
3 years worth of crud and rust can easily block up the holes in the bleed nipples
 
Agemax said:
try removing the bleed nipples completely and see if you can squeeze any fluid out then
3 years worth of crud and rust can easily block up the holes in the bleed nipples
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion, I did remove one, and it was not blocked.

I think the crud that is causing one of the problems is in the master cyl reservior!

When I get another chance, I'll pull that first, and go from there.

I had enough of the heat(95F) we're having here, working in a small work shed.
 
spyug said:
At the risk of sounding like a parrot, you shouldn't do this half assed. Your life can depend on those brakes. By all means start on the master cylinder but you can't stop there. If the master cyclinder is gungy then dollars to donuts, the calipers are going to be like this:
cal1.jpg


That is rust forming from water trapped in the old fluid. Given time those pistons could lock solid in the bores. You may even have a locked piston already and fixing the m/c is not going to help that.

As the guys say, it is not a difficult job and you can do it. It is also expensive to have the shop do it so if you must go that way do as suggested and take the parts off the bike and in to them to safe yourself some cash.

Please listen to what we are telling you and don't become another statistic.

Good luck,
Spyug
Click to expand...

You forgot to add:

What ever you do, DON'T put the piston in backwards! :p


Eric
 
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