Bleeding brakes

[cdnoel]

Trying to bleed out my brakes after instaling new braided lines. I'm using a hand pump on the bleeders at about 20 before I crack open the bleeder. I pull the brake lever till the preasure drops to 15 and then seal the bleeder. So far I've pumped 400ML of fresh dot 3 and I'm just now getting some movement in the right brake. Is this going to take 400ML more or am I missing something?

 

[ryonker]

Trying to bleed out my brakes after instaling new braided lines. I'm using a hand pump on the bleeders at about 20 before I crack open the bleeder. I pull the brake lever till the preasure drops to 15 and then seal the bleeder. So far I've pumped 400ML of fresh dot 3 and I'm just now getting some movement in the right brake. Is this going to take 400ML more or am I missing something?

When you say "movement in the right brake" I am assuming you mean the piston in the caliper, right? It could be that the caliper is frozen up somehow, like corroded.

Did you replace the pads? You might try pulling the caliper and depressing the piston a ways, reassemble and try the brakes again.

Probably unrelated, but it might help your system to clean out the MC if you haven't done that. Mine was pretty mucked up.

Rick

 

[almarconi]

Here is the method I use to bleed the brakes

It's really quite easy if you have a mity vac or phoenix injector. If not a large 60cc syringe would work.

Here is how I do it. Fill the master cylinder and open the bleed valve on one of the calipers (put a piece of clear tubing onto the bleed valve and place in a waste container). Assuming your system is completely dry the only thing I want to do is get brake fluid to come out the calipers. Not trying to bleed the air out at this point. Pump the brake lever in and out until the fluid flows. Once I've got fluid in the system, now I go ahead and bleed it.

Tie a cord around the brake lever so its depressed half way. This will keep the fluid from returning to the MC. You need to inject brake fluid into caliper one, the fluid will flow out of caliper two. Put a piece of tubing on the bleeder on caliper 2 and put the end in a waste container. Start injecting fluid into caliper one using the syringe, what you are doing is bleeding caliper one, the splitter and caliper two. When no more air is coming out of the tubing on caliper 2, close the bleeder on caliper 2.
Remove the cord from the MC and keep injecting fluid into caliper one. You will notice that fluid is now flowing into the MC. Continue until the MC is full. Install the cover on your MC and squeeze the brake lever. The lever should feel firm. If it is a bit spongy, pull the lever in as much as you can and bind it with the cord to the grip. Let it sit overnight. When you remove the cord, the lever should be nice and hard. I have used this technique on many bikes and it always results in a nice firm lever.

Hope this helps.

 

[cdnoel]

Like to try that.

Like to try that.

I'd like to try your method al but how to you keep air from leaking in from the threads of the bleeder. I'm sure I'm getting air past my threads but since I'm vacuming out of the bottom I figure it's only getting into my waste tube anyways. The calipers and master were rebuilt before I put on the new lines. They were cleaned out when rebuilt and they were also free when I checked the pads today.

 

[Guest]

Bleed out the M/C like you would a cars. Take the lever off and use a phillips screwdriver to push the piston.

 

[almarconi]

I'd like to try your method al but how to you keep air from leaking in from the threads of the bleeder.

Put some teflon tape or a little bit of thread sealer on the threads.

 

[thombre]

Cleaning Calipers and Bleeding Brakes GS 1100 L

Cleaning Calipers and Bleeding Brakes GS 1100 L

Leave brake lines attached to front calipers.
Squeeze brake handle and hold,put socket on bleeder valve and open,now release brake handle slowly,then close bleeder valve,repeat this for each side till you have fluid flowing from both sides,keeping master cylinder full of dot 3 or 4 fluid.If you have blockage try reversing hose from top to bottom just till you clear the rust and air out.You will flip the lines upright once the blockage is cleared,this could take a couple days to work through just be patient.
Remove two bolts on each side of both calipers.
Use some rope to keep weight off brake lines and suspend calipers.
Once pistons start moving use channelocks to hold one back till the other catches up,so you remove both pistons with your fingers.Remove O ring inside caliper body.Use a torch to heat inside of caliper till all the varnish turns to powder.Carefully clean out and smear new brake fluid in caliper.Replace o ring,slide piston back in with boot,work it evenly and use thumbs to press piston in at comfortable distance.
Replace bolts and install calipers over brake pads.
Use 2 feet of 1/4 inch clear tubing,continue bleeding air and rust out of brake lines as above until fluid runs clear and no air bubbles.
Use hose to rinse off brake fluid on discs.
The same technique will work for rear brake as well.
Take care, Tom Brennan