Blinker Control Box GS850 GLT 1979

[jrazz]

I am having issues with the blinkers on my bike. The lights will come on for the blinkers in the windjammer but will not blink. The voltage is right and the wiring is right and the switch passes the voltage through like it should, but no blinking. I changed out the flasher with another 12volt flasher and that was not it. I also took out the control box and melted the soldering on the circuit board as some parts were rusty and corroded. That did not solve the problem either.

1. Where could I find a replacement for my bike model?

2. If no replacement is available (or financially feasible) is there a way to bypass the box?

3. Could it be something else?

Thanks.

j razz

 

[BassCliff]

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. jrazz,

Have you checked that all of your grounds are scrubbed clean (small wire brush, steel wool)? If you don't have a manual, there's one at my website (link below). A '79 is an "N" model and an '80 is a "T" model. That's all I got besides your mega-welcome! \\/

Dear fellow GS rider,

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

 

[Guest]

If your 850 is a LT that means it's a cruiser (L) and a 1980 (T).
If it's an 80 I have a turn signal box in working condition if you need it give me a PM.

 

[jrazz]

I appreciate all of the resources above! They will be very valuable to me as I have not had much luck finding parts for my bike (found places that sell me parts they say will fit but no such luck). I wish I would have found you guys a year ago when I first bought this bike. I did countless searches for my bike and for resources but just ran across you guys last night. Somehow this site eludes the search engines in most instances when it should be up at the top of every search that has GS in the title!

As for my bike, it is a 1979 model and it is a GLT made in October I believe; so, your blinker control box won't fit- I wish it would!

Edit: I believe that is what it is (850 GLT), although when looking up things, there does not appear to be a GLT from 79- only a GN. However, the Haynes Manual shows GLT and that is what I was going by.

j razz

 

[flyingace]

I had the same problem. I went down to the local bike salvage yard and bought a new $5 generic flasher relay. I just made sure the connectors were the same. Low and behold, it worked and has for 3 years. It was much smaller than what it replaced too.

 

[jrazz]

Yeah, I just went to autozone and bought a three dollar flasher (is that what you are referring to?) and replaced that hoping that would fix it; no such luck. Thanks though.

By the way, I have been clicking through the resources listed above, but I don't know how to search for a Blinker Control Box- what category is it under and what is it officiallycalled? Thanks.

j razz

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. jrazz,

I don't believe there was a 1979 "L" model. I suspect that your bike may have been built in 1979 for the model year 1980. That's why it's referred to as a "GLT". "G" for shaft drive, "L" for lowered/cruiser style, "T" for model year 1980. In the picture below #31 is the turn signal relay and #32 is the turn signal controller.

#31 is part#
38610-49230


#32 is part#
38830-49200


I just happened to reference www.alpha-sports.com because they use real Suzuki part numbers (most do, except BikeBandit). The part numbers have been updated but alpha-sports.com shows they have them in stock. #31 is about $44 and #32 is about $205. In the online parts fiches you find this under the "Turn Signal Lamp" section.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Guest]

If that's what yours looks like I have one.

 

[jrazz]

I will take a look this evening just to make sure. If so, what do you want for yours?

Thanks

j razz

 

[Steve]

If you are using an actual Windjammer fairing (Vetter brand name), it will have dual filament bulbs for marker lights and turn signals. Make sure you are connected to the brighter filament for your turn signals. If you are connecting to the dimmer filament, it will not cause the flasher relay to see enough current to flash the system.

.

 

[etravis2]

Check all the bulbs and make sure they are not corroded. Bulbs will corrode and that will cause the flasher not to work. The lights will come on but they won't flash.

 

[jrazz]

All the bulbs and contacts are fine.

I did find out though that the control box for the blinkers is not the same as the one in the picture. So this would lead me to believe that it is a 79 model GS850. Mine has two plugs coming out of it and it is only one box. One plug has 6 pins while the other has 4 pins.

So, if anybody knows where I can find a good used one of these, please let me know

j razz

 

[Grandpa]

You aren't listening, so please listen to this:

There wasn't a GS850GL in 1979. Your bike was manufactured in 1979 as a 1980 model. There were no, repeat, no "L" model 850's made as 1979 models.

Yours is a GS850GLT, a 1980 model. Now get this through your head once and for all.

The 1979 model was a GS850GN, a standard model, non "L", with kickstarter, points/condenser ignition, solid discs, slide carburetors. Yours doesn't have any of those features, does it? Then it isn't a 79 model.

 

[jrazz]

Read the last post again. Did I ever conclude in that post that it was a GLT? No. If 80 model parts do not fit, then more than likely it is not an 80 model.

That was the point of the last thread.

j razz

 

[Guest]

You aren't listening, so please listen to this:

There wasn't a GS850GL in 1979. Your bike was manufactured in 1979 as a 1980 model. There were no, repeat, no "L" model 850's made as 1979 models.

Yours is a GS850GLT, a 1980 model. Now get this through your head once and for all.

The 1979 model was a GS850GN, a standard model, non "L", with kickstarter, points/condenser ignition, solid discs, slide carburetors. Yours doesn't have any of those features, does it? Then it isn't a 79 model.

I think he has concluded that it is a 1979 GS850GN.
Be nice! :shock: :-D

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

THIS is the best fix!!! If your control box it bad, convert the signals to manual, remove the box, cut the 4 prong plug off connect the green/black wire to the green also connect the red/black to the black plug it back into the harness.. You also need to change the left handle bar control to something with a detent like 77-79?GS 750 style
check the wiring. Follow the orange wire from the turn signal switch back to the fuse box and disconnect it. Install the flasher between the two.

This is for the 78-79 system only

 

[jrazz]

Great! An alternative that costs zilch!

I will give that a try and see what happens. Thanks.

 

[jrazz]

Question:

To change the handelbar switch to detent, what does that involve?

Here is my situation: If I move the blinker to the left, it stays there until I move it back to the middle. If I move it to the right, the same thing occurs. Do I need to do anything else or is that what you mean by detent?

Thanks.

j razz

 

[Steve]

Before you go cutting any wires, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT ITEM. :shock:

By your description of your box with two wires, one with 6 pin plug, the other with 4 pin plug, you might be describing your ignitor box.
You go cutting into that and, not only will the flashers not work, THE ENGINE WON'T WORK, EITHER.

If the box that you found is on the LEFT side of the battery and is about 2.5 x 3 x 1 inches, it is the ignitor. If the box is on the RIGHT side of the battery and is 1.5 x 1.75 x 1 inches, that is the signal control box.

.

 

[Steve]

Question:

To change the handelbar switch to detent, what does that involve?

Here is my situation: If I move the blinker to the left, it stays there until I move it back to the middle. If I move it to the right, the same thing occurs. Do I need to do anything else or is that what you mean by detent?

Thanks.

j razz

Are you saying that there are only THREE positions in your switch?
I was under the impression that ALL 850s had self-cancelling signals, and the switches actually have FIVE positions.
Think of them as being numbered from left to right:
#1 is spring-loaded, button will immediately return to #2
#2 is for left turns, this is where the button returns after being pushed to #1
#3 will manually cancel the signal from either direction
#4 is for right turns, this is where the button returns after being pushed to #5
#5 is spring-loaded, button will immediately return to #4

Even though the button will stay in postion 2 or 4, the signal control box will determine when the power to the flasher relay is turned off, cancelling the signals.

.