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Blowing 15 amp main fuse

  • Thread starter Thread starter inline4
  • Start date Start date
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inline4

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A few weeks back I came across a 82 GS850l for sale, unmolested...stock, low miles and a clean title. It found its way home with me. I changed all the fluids, cleaned the carbs, put in a new battery and it came to life.

I rode it up the street and it was a nice ride, brought it back home and tucked it away. The following day began to try to fix the few problems, the tach is very slow...border line sticky and unresponsive, the horn does not work everything else was in order. I removed the tack and read online what is inside and realized that I have no interest in trying to crack the case to clean it out so I purchased a used one online. The plugs were replaced with a non R type autolight but listed as a suitable replacement when doing a search online.

This is where my problems began, I went to take it out the following day, fired right up and all went dead..The 15 amp fuse blew, I replaced it and with in a few seconds of the bike starting (choke on and idle around 2500-3k rougt guess- tach issues) pop again.
Today I looked at as many wires as I could find and did not see any exposed/touching the frame/ground (i will check again..this time by lifting the tank) and put in a 10 amp fuse (ran out of 15). The bike was fired up and when the use popped I could see some smoke and an electrical burning type of smell coming from under the battery tray area. No smoke was coming from the fuse box. I kind of freaked out and quickly disconnected the battery terminals.

At this point common sense would say there must be a chafed/exposed wire causing this dead short with in 5-10 seconds of the bike running, that being said having exhausted my fuse supply I thought it would make more sense to reach out to people who know more about this bike then I.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
what good does disconnecting the rectifier/regulator do? I see it mounted on the bottom underside of the battery box
fuse only blows when bike is running not when key is on, but engine is off.
 
the bike starts/runs now for only about 5-10 seconds before the 15 amp pops and I see some smoke/and smell the electrical burn type of smell coming from under the battery box. how can someone test for a bad r/r when the run time is so short?
 
Considering that "under the battery box" is the location of the R/R, I would strongly suspect that as your problem.

Sometimes when the R/R fails, it fails in a "shorted" mode. When that happens, there is a direct path to ground, which is why it will blow the MAIN (15 amp) fuse. You might have a partially-failed R/R that needs a few seconds to heat up enough to fail completely. Best to change it out for a newer series-style R/R like the one that we are getting from Polaris.

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can you please provide a link to the polaris one? is it a direct plug and play?
 
I just took one of my last 10 amp fuses and put it into the main 15 amp slot...shot a quick video so people can see the issue at hand...video being uploaded and I will post a link when finished....stay tuned.
 
Yep, something is definitely toasty down there.

Unplug the red wire from the R/R, where it goes into the harness (between the battery box and the airbox). Start the bike. If it runs longer than the few seconds it does now, it's definitely time for a new R/R.

There have been a few threads somewhat recently about installing an SH775 R/R on various bikes, including an 850. It won't take much of a search to find them.

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All I know for certain is that if the SMOKE gets out of the Electrics they tend to not work any longer...

I think you need to buy some new SMOKE for those wires ... :stupid:

(Electrics and me do not work well together)
 
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