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Blue Sea 5029 Fuse Block Modification

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hakamisu
  • Start date Start date
Steve said:
If somebody already answered this, I did not see it, and I apologize, but I am going to answer it anyway.

If you follow the wiring for the lighting circuit, you will see that power comes from the fuse, then up to a connector that feeds power to the headlight beam selector. Somewhere near (in?) that connector, power will branch out, and a gray wire will feed the instrument lights and also send a gray wire to the ignition switch. There, it will be bridged to the brown wire when the ignition switch is in the RUN position to provide power to the tail light. Why is the tail light separate? Because if you put the ignition switch in the PARK position, the brown wire for the tail light is bridged to the red wire that comes from the main fuse, and will power the tail light as a warning device while parked on the side of the road. Note that you don't want to leave it there very long, a good battery might only last for about half an hour.

.
Click to expand...

So the long and short is, no it won't matter if it's post switched power? I see the tail light thing for safety reasons but I have something up my sleeve for this. It will have to be a surprise as I am uncertain if it will work and I think it will be really cool if it does.

Thanks again everyone for all the input. Always appreciated.

:D
 
koolaid_kid said:
Why do you feel the need for more relays? With your design there is really no need to do so.
I used the Bosch connectors but removed them because they took up too much space. But it does make it easier to swap them out.
Also, please note most are marked 30/40. The 30A rating is for 87 and 40A is for 87a. You can get higher current relays, but on a GS which cannot output anywhere close to 30A I did not see the use.
Click to expand...

Relays;

1 - Horn
1 - Switched Power (+1 if Paralleled)
1 - Coils/Ignition
1 - Turn Signal (not a power relay, but a relay none the less)

Oh, the wires from the signal generator to the ignitor box and then box to coils should be what gauge?
 
Yes, post-switched power will be fine. You can even bundle the tail light with all the other lights, as long as you don't feel the need to separate it out for the PARK function.

.
 
Hakamisu said:
Relays;

1 - Horn
1 - Switched Power (+1 if Paralleled)
1 - Coils/Ignition
1 - Turn Signal (not a power relay, but a relay none the less)

Oh, the wires from the signal generator to the ignitor box and then box to coils should be what gauge?
Click to expand...
O.K. 1, 2 & 3 are already covered by your present design. Just size your fuses appropriately. Yes the turn signal relay is a relay, so you would have your parallel relays plus the turn signal relay in the box and you are done.
22 gauge will be fine for the signal generator to igniter and 20 gauge will be fine for the igniter to coils.
 
Well, between all the input on this thread, my other one related to the harness rebuild, a few private messages and seeing what was done for electrical in this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=193507. I have realised this fuse block is a little large and I could use a little more compact.
Thankfully in my searching I found these, which I've priced out to almost equal and a lot better on space.
 
Excellent. In post #10 I wondered about the size. And it looks like they have done all the work for you, relays plus fuses. Good deal.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Excellent. In post #10 I wondered about the size. And it looks like they have done all the work for you, relays plus fuses. Good deal.
Click to expand...

It's a pretty cool system. What you're looking at is 2 separate boxes that "clip together. The both have clear lids as well.

The thing I really like about them is there are 4 fuses on the side of the "big row" that I will wire for the Battery side (I like that there is some sort of distinction, odd, I know).:)
 
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