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blue/white smoke out of exhaust

  • Thread starter Thread starter GateKeeper
  • Start date Start date
Man i would kill for your bike. Dont give up on her. Pull that engine and do a full rebuild. You wont need to touch it for anythig major again

also try running some seafoam through a tank you might just have some residual effects of overfilling
 
So I possibly had a bit too much in there, now looking at the sight glass, even with the bike running, it's more or less in the middle, this is a good thing.

If you can see it at all when it's running there is too much oil. Shut it off, put it on the centerstand, let it sit a minute, you should see the top of the oil in the sight glass.
 
Man i would kill for your bike. Dont give up on her. Pull that engine and do a full rebuild. You wont need to touch it for anythig major again

also try running some seafoam through a tank you might just have some residual effects of overfilling

make me an offer....you might be surprised....:)

just put a full tank of 91 Shell in her, don't think I will need any seafoam...

If you can see it at all when it's running there is too much oil. Shut it off, put it on the centerstand, let it sit a minute, you should see the top of the oil in the sight glass.

no center stand on the bike, but I use the car jacks under the swing arm on each side, I will put her on them when I get home, and take a picture...

.
 
Its not the amount you have in there. I would change the oil back to the type you removed before I rode it again. OR its the filter restricting flow, can you check the pressure switch to make sure it works? The oil goes to the filter first then the motor, I realize the filters are supposed to have a rubber relief port in case the filter is plugged but you could have gotten a bad filter.
 
Its not the amount you have in there. I would change the oil back to the type you removed before I rode it again. OR its the filter restricting flow, can you check the pressure switch to make sure it works? The oil goes to the filter first then the motor, I realize the filters are supposed to have a rubber relief port in case the filter is plugged but you could have gotten a bad filter.

I am not following this, what is your point....?

the filter is the same as the one I took out, I purchased 3 of them at the same time, I now have one left.

The oil used now, is no worse than the stuff from before, actually it should be a better oil.

Pressure switch should be working, the oil light goes out, almost as soon as the bike starts and is running....

I can go back to all the same, just not sure what it will do to help.


I have some videos of the bike running, just uploading them to photobucket, once ready I will post here, perhaps someone can hear or see something I don't....

Thanks
 
Its not the amount you have in there. I would change the oil back to the type you removed before I rode it again. OR its the filter restricting flow, can you check the pressure switch to make sure it works? The oil goes to the filter first then the motor, I realize the filters are supposed to have a rubber relief port in case the filter is plugged but you could have gotten a bad filter.

More BS. There is no rubber relief port.
 
OK here are 2 videos, I am trying to get the 3rd one up as well...

click on the picture to start the video.....

....




click on the picture to start the video.....

....




.
 
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Third one won't upload to photobucket, it keeps on crapping out right at the end.

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similar to the first 2 that are already posted, click on the pics above it will start the video

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OK here are 2 videos, I am trying to get the 3rd one up as well...

click on the picture to start the video.....

....

.

OK then, I think I know what the problem is, why the oil smoke, why it will not idle well and why it is hard to start.

First off, for whatever reason, I think you did have too much oil in the crankcase. I believe you have taken care of that part. Next, it is hard to start, idles poorly and is blowing smoke out the left exhaust because your #1 carb is HORRIBLY out of synch and barely flowing any fuel. You got NO vacuum on #1. Put a set of vacuum gauges on the bike and turn the adjuster between the 1 and 2 carbs until #1 and #2 carbs show the same vacuum.

Then turn the adjuster between 3 and 4 carbs until 3 and 4 show the same vacuum as each other. Now, to finish the balance. turn the adjuster between 2 and 3 carb and that will balance 1,2 as a pair to 3,4 as a pair.
that adjuster balances pairs.

The fuel mixture on your #1 cylinder is very weak, but the amount of oil in the cylinder is normal, so you get smoke instead of combustion.

It is possible your problem is ignition on #1, but 1 and 4 are the same electrically, so they usually both go out.

I'm pretty sure you have a carb synch/balance problem.
 
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Thanks for the feedback....

I did drain out some oil, it's now between the 2 lines on the sight glass, well on the higher side, but should be OK.

I wonder why it would be out of sync, this is a puzzle....for sure

I had Spyug over way back when, and we syncd the carbs perfectly, he brought over his morgan carb tune device, and we had even readings across all 4....I couldn't have asked for a better reading.

I will get his carb tune, and do it again, good thing the weekend is coming up, but I still need to get to work, I guess the bike is parked and will have to use the car....

I don't get why I can pull the wire off of number one and the bike continues to run, but if I pull the lead off of #4 the bike stalls, is this a sign of a bad coil ? bad wire, lead, plug ?

Well I will go through it all once again, and see if it gets any better...

Thanks once again....

Cheers

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I don't get why I can pull the wire off of number one and the bike continues to run, but if I pull the lead off of #4 the bike stalls, is this a sign of a bad coil ? bad wire, lead, plug ?



.

What did you do since then to screw up the synch? Adjust valves?

I can't see the videos, but if it is badly out of synch, pulling the plug off just means #1 is so out of synch it isn't contributing anything to the engine idling, #4 is doing more of the work. Disabling #1 does nothing, disabling #4 kills the engine. It does not mean a coil or ignition problem.
 
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nothing has been done, other than riding it most days to work and back.

vlaves were checked prior to carb sync...

the only thing done, was a bloody oil change, I should have left well enough alone...LOL


why can't you see the video, they are on photobucket, is it something on my end ?

.
 
Thanks for the feedback....

I did drain out some oil, it's now between the 2 lines on the sight glass, well on the higher side, but should be OK.

I wonder why it would be out of sync, this is a puzzle....for sure

I had Spyug over way back when, and we syncd the carbs perfectly, he brought over his morgan carb tune device, and we had even readings across all 4....I couldn't have asked for a better reading.

I will get his carb tune, and do it again, good thing the weekend is coming up, but I still need to get to work, I guess the bike is parked and will have to use the car....

I don't get why I can pull the wire off of number one and the bike continues to run, but if I pull the lead off of #4 the bike stalls, is this a sign of a bad coil ? bad wire, lead, plug ?

Well I will go through it all once again, and see if it gets any better...

Thanks once again....

Cheers

.

The bike is not running on #1, so pulling that plug lead off will have no effect. #4 is drawing a lot of vacuum, more than #3, so the bike is running primarily on #4, so pulling that lead will cause the engine to die.

Listening to the bike run. #1 is not running, #2 has too much vacuum, #3 doesn't have enough vacuum and #4 has too much.

1 and 2 are a carb pair, 3 and 4 are a carb pair. Ignition pairs are 1 and 4 for the left coil and 2,3 for the right coil. The sequence of your problem indicates a carb problem. You definitely do not have a bad coil. It is possible you have a bad wire to spark plug cap connection on #1, but that is easy to check by removing the plug, putting the lead back on it and grounding the base to the engine fins to see if there is spark. I would be surprised if it is a electrical problem.
 
The bike is not running on #1, so pulling that plug lead off will have no effect. #4 is drawing a lot of vacuum, more than #3, so the bike is running primarily on #4, so pulling that lead will cause the engine to die.

Listening to the bike run. #1 is not running, #2 has too much vacuum, #3 doesn't have enough vacuum and #4 has too much.

1 and 2 are a carb pair, 3 and 4 are a carb pair. Ignition pairs are 1 and 4 for the left coil and 2,3 for the right coil. The sequence of your problem indicates a carb problem. You definitely do not have a bad coil. It is possible you have a bad wire to spark plug cap connection on #1, but that is easy to check by removing the plug, putting the lead back on it and grounding the base to the engine fins to see if there is spark. I would be surprised if it is a electrical problem.

OK, back to syncing carbs, not a problem, will get Spyug's carb tune and will get at it

I did remove the lead off of #1 got a different plug, turned on bike, and I do have spark, I also removed the plug in #1 and turned on the bike, had spark then as well, so it's safe to rule out an electrical problem.

back to the carbs I go.....

I just don't get it, as to why this has happened, but I guess it does, I will report my findings and let you all know if the carb sync resolves my issue....

Thanks again.....

.
 
I just don't get it, as to why this has happened, but I guess it does, I will report my findings and let you all know if the carb sync resolves my issue....

Thanks again.....

.

Perhaps vibration caused adjustment to change??? Just guessing.
 
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