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bobber project! stopped in my tracks

  • Thread starter Thread starter derekp
  • Start date Start date
When you cleaned the carbs did you take them all the way apart, dip the parts, and replace the carb o-rings with a kit from cycleorings.com? If not, that's first thing to do.

Next, get a jet kit. The bike won't run properly with the stock jets and pods. Period. You can be as stubborn as you want to be but that won't change this basic fact.

Just because the bike ran crappy with the stock airbox, that doesn't mean you don't need to rejet with pods.
 
i didn't do any dipping of the parts but they have been cleaned well enough to not cause such extravagant problems to the acceleration.

it has always been apparent to me that a jet kit may need to accompany my new pods:)

Nessism said:
Just because the bike ran crappy with the stock airbox, that doesn't mean you don't need to rejet with pods.
Click to expand...

^^and that is just ridiculous because the whole point of this thread was to find out why my bike was running crappy even with the stock air box

you guys are awesome on ur quick replys
glad im finally a member!
 
How can you troubleshoot the bike with those air filters on?

Basic list of stuff to do...

Rebuild carbs with new O-rings. Hold pilot jets up to a light to make sure they are open.

Vacuum sync the carbs

New spark plugs

Adjust the valves

Snip off a small piece of spark plug wire and screw the caps back on.

Make sure the battery is fully charged

Make sure the carb jetting is appropriate for the type of air filters and exhaust you have installed.

Until you do these things you are just guessing as to what's wrong.
 
How long had you owned the bike when you notice the "crappy running" with the stock airbox?

How long had the bike been sitting before you bought it?

Any particular reason you did not do a FULL cleaning on the carbs?
You said in your first post that you have "been checking out this forum religiously", so you certainly should have noticed early on how we feel about carb cleaning.

There is a very good chance that the carbs were not clean when you got the bike (unless you are the original owner). Even though you did what you thought was a decent carb cleaning, it did not get out the crud that was making it run lean. With stock jetting, the bike would run quite nicely, and would be even better if you adjusted the idle mixture screws a bit to richen up the low-end circuit. Your carbs evidently had something that was restricting the high-speed circuit enough to notice a problem in the way it ran.

Now you have altered its configuration to one that is asking for even MORE fuel flow through those same restricted passages. Notice that I have not said anything about jetting (yet). The first thing you really need to do is to start with a GOOD baseline, which includes CLEAN CARBS. Unless you have owned this bike for the last several years and can attest to the way it has been cared for, you really owe it to yourself (and your bike) to clean the carbs CORRECTLY.

I just looked back through this thread and did not see that you had replaced the o-rings in the carbs, either. Sorry, but that is another VERY important item that we preach CONSTANTLY, which you should have noticed in your "checking out this forum religiously". Order up a kit from cycleorings.com. Since you don't have intake o-rings and cheesy intake boot hardware to worry about, the only 'extra' you will need is the extra penny for the drain screw o-rings. Total cost there is just under $15.

When you get your carbs out of the dip (remember, do not dip anything that is rubber) and start to re-assemble, that would be a good time to put in the new jets that you know you will need for the pods.

While you are waiting for your carbs in the dip (a full day for each carb), treat your bike to a little MORE mandatory 'love'. ADJUST THE VALVES. Like everything else, unless you KNOW when it was done, assume it wasn't.

Hope this might give a little bit of insight into why it might have been running "crappy", but that doesn't matter any more, because you are changing everything.
shrug2.gif


.
 
thaanks for your help steve

ill print that out

hopefully this will solve the mechanical end of the bike.

and then maybe I can start a new thread with the cosmetics!

i have flat black drag bars comming next week.
then im gona start prepping the tank and start looking for a seat.

that is if i can get it to run well.......
 
I had a similar problem with my 300 albeit, it was in stock condition. I noticed that if i had a turn signal on or highbeam on the bike would accelerate normally and perfectly, which was weird, turned out to be an RR problem (common for these bikes). You can get a honda RR from duanage here on this site if this turns out to be the problem
 
RR problem?

i would also like to hear some feedback from someone in BC that has ordered these O-rings from cycleorings.com. or anywhere in canada really...

and i guess i should also ask what stage dynojet kit to get... since im going to REJET THE CARBS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ARRRRRRRRGH :)

--its only work when you dont like doing it
 
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derekp said:
thaanks for your help steve

ill print that out

hopefully this will solve the mechanical end of the bike.

and then maybe I can start a new thread with the cosmetics!

i have flat black drag bars comming next week.
then im gona start prepping the tank and start looking for a seat.

that is if i can get it to run well.......
Click to expand...

YOU WILL GET IT TO RUN WELL.

The reason that we preach the "clean carb" issue is that, for the most part, these bikes (all of them) were parked by a PO, somewhere along the line, as a result of dirty carbs. I KNOW... this has been covered in this thread, but I am as guilty as the next guy, with the air / fuel ratio on the CV carbs. When I got my 650 (keep in mind that I consider myself a carb GEEK) I was having the same trouble as you are. The bike would run GREAT in the low RPM (1100-4200 RPM range) and once I rolled hard on the throttle, the thing would fall flat on its' face.

When it was brought to my attention by Tconnroy (where are ya bud?) that the intake o-rings were the likely culprit (your bike DOES NOT HAVE THEM) and I pulled things apart further, the fine folks here, were right, again. :o+

We may seem a bit blunt however, when you think of engines running correctly lets start from the basics, air, fuel, spark...and on the GS specifically, the air/fuel ratio, is VERY CRITICAL!

Now...lets take this a bit further. We ALL "drive" vehicles, yes?
We ALL ride bikes, yes?
Does everybody that rides a bike, ride a Suzuki?
Does EVERYBODY that rides a Suzuki, ride a GS?

You, have found the "Holy Grail" as it pertains to the Suzuki GS series of bikes (this site) and like me, you need to take what these good people are telling you, as the gospel truth, as it relates to YOUR BIKE. Simple as that.

Tough pill to swallow, I've been there and done that however, you WILL get that bike running correctly with our help and coming from a "carb geek", you will do so, by taking to hart, what we are telling you.

IF...it is not a carb (lean) condition, I'll eat your spark plugs, one meal at a time.
I must add, your electricals must be in order, your valves MUST be specked out, and YOU MUST be honest, about what you have done and not done.

My only rules. :o

I really don't like the taste of spark plugs... ;)
 
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derekp said:
RR problem?

i would also like to hear some feedback from someone in BC that has ordered these O-rings from cycleorings.com. or anywhere in canada really...
Click to expand...

You won't find a better source, Canada, the US, or otherwise. :cool:

Did I mention that Robert is a member here, in VERY good standings...


YES, I have his O-rings.
 
ahaha awesome!!.
im sure alot of people could say the same on this forum!
i guess ill go ahead and order some but i just cant seem to figure out how to add on the drain screw o-rings:(
weirdddddddddddd..

also, again about the dynojet

good/bad..

wondering what stage I should go for.:confused:


because i feel like im in the mood to get them riiiiiiiiiiiggggggghtttt......NOW
 
Hey, by the way...CLEAN THE CARBS BY DIPPING THEM not just assuming you can look at the bowls and one or two of the jets and say they are clean. Really get them soaking and then spray additional cleaner through there. Trust the guys above who are telling you this and the jetting points since they've been through this a thousand times.

Welcome to the forum. If you are really serious about getting them right then do it.
 
derekp said:
ahaha awesome!!.
im sure alot of people could say the same on this forum!
i guess ill go ahead and order some but i just cant seem to figure out how to add on the drain screw o-rings:(
weirdddddddddddd..

also, again about the dynojet

good/bad..

wondering what stage I should go for.:confused:


because i feel like im in the mood to get them riiiiiiiiiiiggggggghtttt......NOW
Click to expand...

DJ are the BEST pre-fabbed kits on the market.

My feeling is that you are looking for the Stage 2 kits.

The Stage 3 kits would be for the bike that hasd pods AND an after market 4-1 pipe.

Take a good tour of their site and look fo what is suggested by them for your set up.

You could also ask for a little advice from the four on jet sizes and if lucky, get them from someone here in the parts section OR through a PM. ;)
 
derekp said:
i guess ill go ahead and order some but i just cant seem to figure out how to add on the drain screw o-rings:(
weirdddddddddddd..
Click to expand...
Really can't get much easier. :-k

Go to the order page, select the kit that you want.
HINT: It's the second item on the list, now that we see you are from BC, it's called CV 'BS' series carb O-ring kit.

The very next line says: Bowl drain O-rings (only with CV Carb kit purchase)
Click the button next to it to add it to the cart.

Proceed to checkout.


Do you need directions to your nearest Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Kragen, Shuck's, Pep Boys, Checker, NAPA store to find the Berryman's?

Oh, yeah, we call it "dipping" the carbs, but it's really "SOAKING" the carbs as you put them in the can and leave them there for 24 hours. :o

.
 
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Hi,

For what it's worth, I have purchased a set of O-rings and fasteners from or friend Robert Barr at cycleorings.com. These are your carb's best friend.

I also apologize for not addressing one of your original concerns. But as others have suggested, if you bike was not runnunig right with stock jetting, stock airbox, stock air filter, etc, then there is a good chance that old gas has evaporated and left varnish clogging the narrow passages of your carbs. A thorough cleaning is in order.

Go through the maintenance lists in your "mega-welcome". You'll find links to guides with the proper procedures. Check my website for other maintenence tasks that I have learned from these experts and documented with lots of pictures. Don't you worry, we'll get your bike sorted. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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shout out to Robert Barr for sending those nicely labeled O-rings so quickly
dipping disassembled carb as we speak and will get back to it tomorrow after work!


I should start putting my pictures up of my bike so you guys can have a look at my progress. i just have to remember to bring my SD card from the shop...:dancing:

anyways thanks again for the help until next time
 
ya there are a couple pictures on my profile

that was the first week I got it. I got all excited right away and cut the back part of the frame:D.

...then I decided that I would work on the mechanical side of things so i didnt put any money into a lemon.

after the carbs are done im going to install some steel braided brake lines and start looking for some cool aftermarket turn signals.

Ive already grabbed a set of new drag bars from a local dealer. might try and look for a newer throttle and a smaller set of levers.

im thinking of doing the tank matte black with a red pinstripe around where the origonal would be.;)

let me know what you guys think. ive been taking pictures almost everystep of the way so maybe ill make a project thread soon!
 
Check the float levels.and make sure diaphragms on the slides return slowly when lifted, and all four act the same. When you are checking the float levels make sure brass tube with the tiny holes (the needles slide inside) is clean, sometimes it is not removed from the carb body and cleaned.
 
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