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Boots

chuckycheese

chuckycheese

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Charter Member
This may have been covered but I don't remember seeing it. How practical is it to try to change the rubber intake boots without taking off the carbs? It seems like if you took off #1 and #2 and changed #2 first, and then did the same thing with #3 and #4, that is would be 'doable'. Anybody done it??

Also, are there any aftermarket boots available? (It seems like if they were, they would probably be better rubber.)

Thanks, guys!!:-D
 
I'm not real sure I understand.

If I were to replace MY boots, I'd remove the carbs, replace the boots, then replace the carbs. No way around it.
 
Billyboy said:
I'm not real sure I understand.

If I were to replace MY boots, I'd remove the carbs, replace the boots, then replace the carbs. No way around it.
Click to expand...

Especially since you may need room for an impact driver on the mount screws. That wasn't good enough for me, and next I'll have a Dremel in there.
 
Near impossible! It is hard enough to get them out with the carbs removed. Try Bikebandit for the rubber intakes.
 
chuckycheese said:
This may have been covered but I don't remember seeing it. How practical is it to try to change the rubber intake boots without taking off the carbs? It seems like if you took off #1 and #2 and changed #2 first, and then did the same thing with #3 and #4, that is would be 'doable'. Anybody done it??

Also, are there any aftermarket boots available? (It seems like if they were, they would probably be better rubber.)

Thanks, guys!!:-D
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the intake pieces between the airbox and the carbs or the pieces between the carbs and the engine?

Between the airbox and the carbs MIGHT be possible, though it would be a bitch. Between the carbs and engine would be near impossible. This is a good time to pull your float bowls and see how everything looks inside the carbs anyway, you should take the opportunity while everything is apart.

For the few extra minutes of time to pull the carbs, I can't understand why you would try it with them in place.

Mark
 
Just pull the carbs. The key to getting them off is to figure out which screws to remove so you can slide the airbox back. In most cases the airbox can be moved back 1" or so which will afford you room to pull the carbs back out of the boots in front.
 
What?

What?

I think most of you are thinking I mean something else. I have no idea what you'd do with an impact driver or a Dremel, for instance. "It's hard enough to get them out with the carbs removed"?????....it would take about a minute with the carbs removed.

I know how to get the carbs off and on (and recently rebuilt the carbs on my GS750 for the third time).....although it's certainly not a job that can be done "in a few minutes". I would rebuild them if they needed it...which they don't.

If new boots were very supple, I'm certain it wouldn't be impossible to do. Now, as far as the ones between the airbox and the carbs.....on my bikes, I'm not so sure that would be possible considering how they connect to the airbox.

By the way, the boots between the carbs and the engine are "intake" and the ones between the airbox and the carbs are "outlet"; it seems like it should be the other way around but it's not. That might clear up some of the confusion.
 
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Nessism said:
Just pull the carbs. The key to getting them off is to figure out which screws to remove so you can slide the airbox back. In most cases the airbox can be moved back 1" or so which will afford you room to pull the carbs back out of the boots in front.
Click to expand...


Still a pain, but worth it.The carbs are on a rack. You can't remove just one boot. How the heck would you get a screwdriver on the bolt???

Every time I pull my carbs I'm glad I don't have an airbox to mess with. Then again, that's the reason I'm pulling the carbs.:?
 
Billyboy said:
Still a pain, but worth it.The carbs are on a rack. You can't remove just one boot. How the heck would you get a screwdriver on the bolt???
Every time I pull my carbs I'm glad I don't have an airbox to mess with. Then again, that's the reason I'm pulling the carbs.:?
Click to expand...

There is no bolt! A lot of the parts on these bikes are considerably different from model to model!
 
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chuckycheese said:
There is no bolt!
Click to expand...


Then we don't know what you're talkin' 'bout.
Is it the rubber bits on the bottom of this pic?

Engine015.jpg
 
Yeah!!

Yeah!!

Yeah!!!....and they ain't like yours, which was the point of my last post.8-[ On both my bikes, they are simply round, hollow rubber tubes...nothing fancy (which is why they only cost about $9).

I'm sure Ness knows what I'm talking about. Suzuki calls them "intake tubes".
 
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chuckycheese said:
Yeah!!!....and they ain't like yours, which was the point of my last post.8-[

I'm sure Ness knows what I'm talking about. Suzuki calls them "intake tubes".
Click to expand...


Well, beats me then, partner. I'm not familier with your setup.:confused:
 
16v engines use a tube arrangement, with band clamps on each end, whereas 8v engines use a full rubber manifold "boot" as we are apt to call them. 16v engines obviously don't have the large O-rings, that dry out and leak as well, so that design change was definitely an upgrade to the series.
 
dont want to hijack, but i dont want to start another thread either....when i install the boots back in the airbox, do i use some kind of goo/sealer in the little slot, the idea being better airbox sealing? or is this unnecessary? they didnt seem to be glued in when i took them off......

greg
 
greg78gs750 said:
dont want to hijack, but i dont want to start another thread either....when i install the boots back in the airbox, do i use some kind of goo/sealer in the little slot, the idea being better airbox sealing? or is this unnecessary? they didnt seem to be glued in when i took them off......

greg
Click to expand...

If the "outlet" boots are supple, a slight shot of silicone spray will make them slide right into place. No glue or other sealer should be needed.
 
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