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Bouncing electronic tachometer GSX 1100 and GS 1150 1984

  • Thread starter Thread starter kz
  • Start date Start date
I have a similar if not the same problem as everyone elde. I have a '85 gs700E with an electronic tach. I managed to get another tach off ebay and I swapped out the complete circuit board. The problem got better but still not fixed. Before the tach wouldn't go above 5k and it would bounce around. Now it goes to 7K and still bounces....Any thoughts? :?
 
Sounds like still a few of us still out there.

I know Earl installed a digital Tach on the Teddy Bear. ?

Has anyone tried adding a ground, like Billy Ricks suggested? I just wonder......if it might be a weak ground, or just a lame Tach.
 
Billy Ricks, can you elaborate on how to hook up the Gixxer Tach?


Thanks man.

Missed ya. :cry:
 
wiring

wiring

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an 83' 750? The previous owner hacked mine up. My tach doesnt work. The orange wire is connected to an orange wire , the white wire was hooked up to a clump of black/white wires and the brown wire wasnt connected to anything. does anyone have an idea what each wire does or to where the connection goes?
 
Looking to rehash this thread as my tach has started to get really freaky. I did the capacitor swap a few years ago, and it worked well up to a limit, the tach stopped bouncing, but would top out at 7grand now it tops out at around 6 and will drop over time. Is there any way to test the signal into the tach with a multi-meter: voltage, mA or resistance? Since it has been pizzing rain here lately a lot, I was looking to work on the tach again.

HHHHHHHeeeeeeeeelllllllllloooooooo,, let's wake this thread up and find a fix for all these poorly behaving tachs.
 
I have a 83 GS1100esd with the same problem. It all started after my bike fell over while idling in the driveway. Any new updates?
 
The most important bit of the job NOT mentioned is to reglue the capacitors; use a lo-melt "hot glue" gun so as to not cook the capacitor.
I found that my tacho was smooth and accurate after the swap until the miles started to add up, then it deteriated again, at this point I remembered that the originals were glued down, so I replaced them again and glued them down, no problems since, four years later.
BTW the voltage rating is not vitally important, as long as it exceeds 12v the micro -farad rating is the important bit,i.e. my replacements are 33v.

Dink
 
Electronic Tach Problem

Electronic Tach Problem

Well Fellas, My tach finally stopped working all together on my 83 GS1100esd so I am resurecting this topic! I guess I will have to go and give the capacitor replacment a try. Guy like you Dink or others still having good luck with your tach after the capacitor swap? Any additional suggestions would be appreicated.

Also I was wondering if anyone just replaced the tach all together with a aftermarket tach and found a way to stuff it in the stock guage assembly? With so many of you with the same problem, hoped someone has came up with a simple solution. Help!
 
I've tried two different early '90s GSXR tachs on my ES, both do the bouncing act that the stocker did. When wired to both coils they stop bouncing (one coil and it still bounces) and will go past 7k but read way too high. I ask, maybe would a resistor on the signal wire (when wired to both coils) bring the reading down to the right level? I know nothing when it comes to electonics/electrical stuff....
 
Well though this is promising, if it tachs up too high and is not accurate, it is not much use to me but thanks! Maybe you are on to something though! Anyone else has any luck????????????????????????
 
Well, I have replaced the capacitors twice, and last time I replaced the little blue one and the round brown one and two of the resistors.
Everything that can be replaced has been replaced, except for the black chip in the middle. It doesn't bounce now but still hangs at about 5000 for a while before going up. I give up. The only thing left to get into would be the big brass clock part. But what do you do with that?:confused:
 
Careful Clone if you do decide to go into "the big brass clock bit" I vaguely recall someone doing this quite some time ago; IIRC they use contact cleaner and cotton tips to clean out any old lube, dirt etc in there, also IIRC it helped.

Dink
 
bringing up a dead thread here :D but it has some info relavant to my problems. Im ordering the capacitors to see if that will work. Just wondering if anybody knows the tolerance of the resistors on this board. I cant tell if the band is gold or silver. Also should I use 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt?
 
Dont replace resistor unless burned. Caps go out do them first.
 
Last edited:
Also clean the old lube out of the brass movement and use some new lube, that makes a huge difference, I also found that if you adjust the :-k tension of the securing nut, that helps.
 
i replaced the two electrolytic capacitors and the tach now reads but its obviously sluggish when revving the engine. Any suggestions?
 
Sparky said:
i replaced the two electrolytic capacitors and the tach now reads but its obviously sluggish when revving the engine. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Are you sure you replaced with the correct values? Tolerance doesnt matter as much but being off by 10:1 might depending upon which one you did.

Otherwise is the needle free to move or is it real gummed up?
 
4.7uf and 33uf just like what was on there and is listed at the beginning of this thread

Doesnt seem gunked up but Ill take it back apart when I get some time and check it out in detail.
 
You need to remove the back of the brass workings, clean out the old lube and put some new in there, I also backed the tension nut off a little on the back, like 1/8 of a turn and it worked better.
search out another thread where I replaced the green and the little blue 'thingies' on the circuit board, that also helped.
 
My 1150 tach is a little sluggish. I'll be getting into it soon. I'll report back with my findings.
 
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