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Brake bleeding help

Joe, which bike is this on? Is it equipped with the chinzy Suzuki anti-dive valves?

If so, then there is a specific procedure to follow. I've perfected bleeding my 700 with the anti-dive valves so that they don't "spongify" (a new word!) the lever.

Brett,

I actually started this post months ago and it got resurrected recently (Kudos to Dpage for efficiently using the search function!). My anti-dive has been disconnected for years and I have braided stainless lines. The brakes are good now but I feel I still have too much lever travel. I'm going to try Dpage's tip right now.........

Thanks,
Joe
 
Thanks Tejas,

I printed this for reference, great information. The calipers I replaced mine with came off an 82 1100g and were in really good condition. Im going to tear them down again to make sure it is done right. The rear has not been touched so its coming apart. Thanks again man.

You are welcome, and not a problem, just my method. I'm sure others have gone a different route with no issues.

I have seen the pins on the front calipers lubed with anti seize when pulling calipers apart on a teardown, but tend to steer away from this practice given anti-sieze will dry out over time.

Another thing I was thinking when reading a thread on caliper pistons sticking after a rebuild was the mention of "pads wearing uneven and them being reused." If the pads are useable, mark the orientation they come off to keep them in the same direction. My preference is to just replace them. I know it must be written in the pages here somewhere, but not a bad thing to mention again.
 
Wow! Thanks again Dpage. I fought this for hours back in September and never got the feel I wanted. Five minutes tonight and the brake lever is stronger than ever.

Joe
 
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