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Brake light stays on all the time

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fishman
  • Start date Start date
F

Fishman

Guest
This may be simple, or not. I'm confused as to why my brake light comes on as soon as I turn on the key. The bike hasn't always been like this, but I haven't been able to ride it extensively yet, as I'm still fixing stuff.

At first, the light wouldn't come on at all. Then I went to work removing the bullet connectors for the taillights and blinkers and soldering the wires together. Yes I have a wiring diagram and I think I'm reading it right. The reason I removed the bullet connectors is that when I pushed the wires around, the light would flicker. So now all those are neatly tidied up, but the brake light stays on all the time, NOT the running light, it doesn't come on at all. I checked the rear brake switch for continuity, and it works as it should. When the brake is depressed, the switch closes and we have continuity. I checked the front brake switch and thought I had it, because the switch showed continuity without depressing the lever. However, the wires in the headlight bucket that the front brake switch wires plug into also show continuity.

So I think I have a bad front brake switch, but I also have a problem in the wires leading back to the rear brake. Perhaps a short?

I just need some guidance here from somebody that has run up against something similar. I don't want to trace the switch wires back unless I need to. I just can't figure out why they show continuity. Maybe I don't know what I'm doing? :o

On a positive note, I installed a r/r from Duanage that I've had for a while. Went in slick, although I soldered it in rather than using the nice bullet connectors included with it. I need to figure out this taillight problem before connecting the sense wire though.

The bike starts and idles perfect, just begging to be ridden. But I have to fix these electrical gremlins first as well as install the new brake pads and I really should do a valve clearance check . . .
 
You might want to check the front brake switch. It's adjustable, and replacable if need be. Becareful if you pull it apart though, there is a tiny spring and a couple of other small bits that will want to jump out and get lost on the floor.
 
If you pull the front brake switch apart - flip the brake lever (spin it around the bars) 180 degrees first, it makes the whole process so much simpler.
 
Zooks said:
If you pull the front brake switch apart - flip the brake lever (spin it around the bars) 180 degrees first, it makes the whole process so much simpler.
Click to expand...

Good tip there....wish I had known that the first time I took one apart...;)
 
Yeah me too. I figured it out when I was trying to put the darn thing back together.

LOL :)
 
Sounds like your front brake switch. Take it apart, clean and lube w/dielectric grease. It is (slightly) adjustable. Sounds like it is adjusted too far in one direction. Good luck.
 
Unplug each brake light switch, one at a time. I'm betting you accidently soldered the wrong wire.
 
I will check the front brake switch and see what happens. Zooks, that sounds like a good tip with the lever flip.

I too was concerned I soldered the wrong wire, but everything checks out with the wiring diagram. Rear brake switch tests ok and operates as it should, so that's not the problem.

I'll report back with what I find. Start simple and go from there. . . makes sense.
 
JTsGS650 said:
Sounds like your front brake switch. Take it apart, clean and lube w/dielectric grease. It is (slightly) adjustable. Sounds like it is adjusted too far in one direction. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Sound advice. I had the same problem. It turned out the front switch needed a little dielectric grease. Sounds simple, but I wish I had checked that first.
 
Well I checked the front switch and with it out of the loop, things worked as they should. In reviewing the wiring diagram I had to smack my forehead as of course the wires leading from the switch connectors to the brake light would show continuity as there was no switch to close.

But try as I might the switch would not operate correctly. I took it apart and cleaned it, and added a very light coat of dielectric grease. It is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. The switch plate is adjustable left and right and moving it away from the contact does nothing. I have to move it completely off the mounting holes to break continuity. I also see no way to move the other contact which is activated by the brake lever, as it is all the way over. I even reviewed the spare front brake switch I acquired in a parts batch, and it is apparently the same way.

So I unplugged the front brake switch. I reason that since I use good braking techniques and always use both brakes, the rear brake switch will take care of activating the brake light. If someone disagrees and has a solution I'm all ears.
 
brake light

brake light

listen to tkent02.......get a hydraulic switch......how many posts do we have on this problem?
Monte
 
Three posts with concerns and a solution! That's why it's great to be a member of the GSR. Thanks!

The hydraulic switch - I assume it goes inline with the front brake line? It looks inexpensive enough, to be sure. How difficult is the install?

For the record, I really don't feel comfortable disconnecting the front brake switch. But after studying the switch carefully (yes, all the parts are there) I really question how it could possibly work. I know that sounds crazy, but the twin copper bars on the switch plate are so long, that the copper contact MUST always contact them, closing the switch. Logic tells me the same as tkent02, but after 2 hours of careful work with the correct tools, I can come to no other conclusion. It's possible that someone replaced the switch plate/twin wires with one from another bike model, but that seems unlikely, given the fact that the spare I have from another 550t looks identical.

So again, tell me about this hydraulic switch, I've not seen them before.
 
Well, nevermind with the details. The search function comes through for me again! I see where it just replaces a banjo bolt and the obvious place is the manifold behind the light bucket. Very nice solution imho. I'm going for it!
 
Only one brake light switch is not a good idea.
Your state may require the light to operate with either lever. You'll have to fix it anyway. may as well do it now when you aren't riding.
 
Hi,

I just wanted to point out the associated information that I've collected on my website. Thanks to all of the contributors.

Front Brake Switch Repair
(by Mr. gravity tester)

And from the More Info/Odds and Ends Brakes page:

If you'd like to replace your mechanical brake switch with a hydraulic switch (10mmx1.0 thread), here are a couple of sources:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=BRAKELITE
http://www.denniskirk.com/ Goodridge Brake Light Banjo Bolt

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Basscliff, thanks for the link. I checked it out previously to make sure I knew what I was getting into. I have used a lot of stuff off your website and you sir, are awesome for hosting that info.

Short of extending the switch plate connector holes to allow more lateral movement, it ain't gonna work.:(

I do have one question regarding the hydraulic option. I see both double and single brake light versions and single and double bleed versions. I plan to replace one of the banjo bolts on my 550's manifold. Which do I need, or does it matter? Tkent02, you directed me to the double brake light version at Pegasus but I want to be sure.

As an aside, I also found the single banjo hydraulic brake switch at Z1, so I'm going to combine that order with a couple of other goodies. :)
See here:http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3380
 
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