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Brake Line Shopping List

  • Thread starter Thread starter MisterCinders
  • Start date Start date
M

MisterCinders

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I am putting together an order for some SS brake lines from Earl's and using Ed's guide for the DIY lines. After searching the forums, I have a couple of punch list questions.

Front brakes - Even though my 78 is supposed to have dual disc brakes in the front, mine has just a single disc (no idea why). A number of posts indicate that eliminating the splitter from the front brake line has benefits. Given that I don't need a splitter, should I swap out the 2-piece line for a single line from MC to caliper?

Rear Brakes - I am confused by Ed's parts list. The guide calls for

Rear Line (verify there is room for a straight at the master):
- 1 adjustable straight hose end (P/N 600403 x 1)
- 1 non adjustable straight (P/N 600703)
- 3' of -3 hose (I think- please check)
Click to expand...
The parts fiche for my rear brake line also has 2 banjos, in addition to the straight connections.

6127358752_a064590667.jpg


I assume that I need to pick up those fittings as well as the straights, but that leaves me with another question. Sticking with Ed's recommendation for one adjustable and one fixed connector on each hose, what is the best mix of fittings for the rear lines? I am leaning toward this series

caliper -> adj. banjo -> fixed straight -> adj. straight -> fixed banjo -> MC

Is that right?
 
Single line from front MC to caliper is the best bet IMO... that's the way I do it, even with dual calipers up front.

I think Ed's material list is aimed at rear lines that use an OEM rubber hose from the rear MC directly to the rear caliper. Your fiche shows a section of hard tubing that connects in between the rubber lines.

Seems some bikes have this hard line in the rear, while others do not... I run a SS line from the rear MC to the rear caliper.

I think the take-away from Ed's suggested parts list is to verify a straight banjo fitting on the SS line will fit into the space needed to connect it to the rear MC (it can get a little cramped around there).

The adjustable fitting is a little longer, but allows you to rotate the "face" of the banjo fitting so it fits squarely on the rear caliper without having to "twist" the SS line. You don't need an adjustable fitting, but sometimes when you make these lines up the banjo faces don't exactly line up with each other.
 
So should I keep the hard line with fixed straight connectors at each end? Or swap it out for a single rear SS line from MC to caliper? Or is that "dealer's choice"?
 
MisterCinders said:
So should I keep the hard line with fixed straight connectors at each end? Or swap it out for a single rear SS line from MC to caliper? Or is that "dealer's choice"?
Click to expand...

If it were me, I would run a single SS line from the rear MC to the rear caliper...
 
I agree with Mike. Single line is best.

The stock 550 front line is two pieces, but I also recommend using one piece for that line as well.

Less joints = less chance of leaks (and cheaper). :D
 
Anyone have a source for a banjo bolt to eliminate the splitter in the front circuit?
 
OK - so I ordered line and banjos for two lines - one front and one rear. Also grabbed a pack of cushioned P-clamps to secure the lines at the tree and where the hard line runs in the rear.

Total sticker, including shipping, was $97. I probably ordered too much line (12'), but I am sure that I will botch the cutting at least once.
 
Have been following all of these break line threads. And I am wondering if it is worth making my own. Mistercinders cost was $97. I have dual disks so i guess add another 50 bucks plus the increased shipping to Canada. Spiegler quoted me $185 for everything made up. $25 shipping. So it seems there is roughly $60 difference. 60 bucks is not to be sneezed at. But bolt off and bolt on is very convenient. Especially when you live in a place where riding time { not raining } is at a premium. Hmm, have to think about this.
 
bccap said:
I have dual disks so i guess add another 50 bucks plus the increased shipping to Canada.
Click to expand...

I don't think $50 extra will be needed, just 2 additional straight hose fittings.

The trick is to re-use the double banjo-bolt from the splitter, at the caliper. I run a single line from the MC to the left caliper, then run a short jumper line over the top of the fender to the opposite caliper. The double banjo captures the double connection on the left caliper (use an additional crush washer between the two banjos).

I even use the existing hose guides on each side of the front fender to hold the jumper line, while running the long feed line (from the MC) through the rubber speedo cable holder...
 
Last edited:
bccap said:
Have been following all of these break line threads. And I am wondering if it is worth making my own. Mistercinders cost was $97. I have dual disks so i guess add another 50 bucks plus the increased shipping to Canada. Spiegler quoted me $185 for everything made up. $25 shipping. So it seems there is roughly $60 difference. 60 bucks is not to be sneezed at. But bolt off and bolt on is very convenient. Especially when you live in a place where riding time { not raining } is at a premium. Hmm, have to think about this.
Click to expand...
Check these guys out http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SUZUKI-MOTOR...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5f1d9e80 loved the red ones I got from them,but they have sun faded to white this year:eek:.Nice lines inspite of that.Just be sure to request 10x1.00 banjos,I got a nice new set of 10x1.25's in my tool box:rolleyes:
 
Thanx Hikermikem and Svsooke. I was picking up my tappet cover gasket at my local shop,and mentioned the stainless brake lines. He recommended running 2 separate lines for the front. And would make them up for $90 front and $40 rear. Using Russell products. I'm pretty sure I read in one of Nessism's threads that this was a good idea. Any thoughts.
 
MisterCinders said:
OK - so I ordered line and banjos for two lines - one front and one rear. Also grabbed a pack of cushioned P-clamps to secure the lines at the tree and where the hard line runs in the rear.

Total sticker, including shipping, was $97. I probably ordered too much line (12'), but I am sure that I will botch the cutting at least once.
Click to expand...


What did you order?

I just checked and got the following...


Part # 600403 Banjo hose end, steel, Straight Adj. Long
$11.85 x 2 = $23.70


Part # 600703 Banjo hose end, steel, Straight Non-Adj. Long
$7.03 x 2 = $14.06

Part # 600003 Speed-Flex .040" WALL Teflon Hose.
$2.62 x 6 =$15.72

Subtotal: $53.48


How did you get the cost up to $97?
 
I got 12' of tubing. To account for bad cutting and other fumbles on my part. Also shipping.

Also the non adjustable banjos are the angled ones, that might be a few cents more.
 
What are you guys using for washers? When I re-assembeled mine I used copper washers, but when I just snug them up, some seep slighly. When I give it a tad more, the begin to dribble. Have tried a couple times with fresh ones to no avail. Looking at the oem ones, they don't appear to be copper. Is this my problem? Can the stockers be re-used?
 
Are you using copper washers from the hardware store? Or aftermarket crush washers made for banjo sealing?

Perhaps the hardware store ones are too hard?

I've re-used the stock crush washers a few times without any issues... give them a good look on the sealing surface & don't use them if they're nicked or gouged. I always save the old washeres just in case I need one in a pinch, gotta a bunch of them in a bag somewhere.

When I rebuild calipers, MC's or fab SS brake lines I use new aftermarket crush washers from Z1. They come 10 to a pack & they appear to be soft copper - no problems with them:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Brake-Hose-38-CRUSH-WASHERS-10Pk-3348.aspx
 
The stock crush washers are plated copper. They seem a smig harder than the plain copper Goodrich crush washers that Z1 Enterprises sells. With these, if you over tighten you can get a lot of crush, to the point of really deforming the washer. I prefer the stock washers.
 
Been using copper banjo washers from NAPA. Also the stock suzuki banjo bolts don't have the little step in them I am used to seeing on automotive applications. Is it just the tension from the banjo bolt that does the sealing? As opposed to the little notch that gets cut/pressed into them when snugged down on an automotive style banjo bolt.
 
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