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brake overhual

  • Thread starter Thread starter claygs750e
  • Start date Start date
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claygs750e

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OK so I want to rebuild both the front and rear brakes so I'm going to buy ss lines, I've bought the seals, boots and pads. My question is what do I do with the master cylinders? I haven't taken them off before so I'm unfamiliar. Thanks
 
What do you do with them? :-k

Remove them and rebuild them, of course.
icon_shrug.gif


Instructions are in your service manual.
If you don't have a manual, get one from BassCliff's library.
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.
 
I'm in the process of rebuilding the front and back calipers and the pistons took some damage getting out. The only damage is the lip of the pistons are a little damaged, but the shaft that slides inside the caliper is ok. Would they still be ok to use or do I now need them replaced? Thanks
 
The groove doesn't matter. As long as the pistons aren't rust pitted or anything you can reuse them.
 
Master cylinders are all basically the same, buy a kit and replace the guts. As mentioned above as long as the walls of the bore are not pitted it should seal properly. If they are pitted and you reassemble they will leak backwards onto the lever. You have it all apart take the time and closely look at everything. If it is in your budget I would replace the lines as well.
 
As far as SS brake lines I think I will buy these and not fool with making them. I hear the Rennsport is good. Do I have to get the lines for the GS750E or does other types work like the gs850? I'm going to have dual calipers in the front so will I run two separate lines to the middle banjo bolt, then one line to the MC?
 
You can do that for the front or just run two lines (one for each caliper) straight from the MC. Measure the length you need and don't worry about what type of bike - brake lines don't care.
 
So if that's the case would I eliminate the middle banjo junction and put a double banjo bolt at the MC? Do I need any special attachment or a longer dual banjo? Is there any advantage of running two separate lines? Does it look cleaner? I'm not sure the measurements since I'm not sure how I would route the line.
 
claygs750e said:
So if that's the case would I eliminate the middle banjo junction and put a double banjo bolt at the MC? Do I need any special attachment or a longer dual banjo? Is there any advantage of running two separate lines? Does it look cleaner? I'm not sure the measurements since I'm not sure how I would route the line.
Click to expand...

Use the longer banjo bolt from the splitter, you have everything.
 
My preference is to run both lines to a junction and then one line up to the MC. Z1 Enterprises has all sorts of lines in different lengths. Correct length is important,you don't want binding(short) or extra line sticking out all over.
 
claygs750e said:
So if that's the case would I eliminate the middle banjo junction and put a double banjo bolt at the MC? Do I need any special attachment or a longer dual banjo? Is there any advantage of running two separate lines? Does it look cleaner? I'm not sure the measurements since I'm not sure how I would route the line.
Click to expand...

Figure out how you want to run the line then, using a piece of string from the master cylinder to the caliper, measure the distance to know the length of line. Like Tom said, just re-use the double banjo in your splitter and pick up some new crush washers as they do wear out.
 
Another tip: SS lines don't like to be twisted. The ends need to be angled a certain way with respect to each other. This is easy to see when the old lines are off the bike, but not so easy to guess while still on. Rennsport offers an adjustable fitting (for an extra $6, I think) on one end that can help eliminate the guesswork. Just install the lines per usual and then tighten the adjustable fitting as the last step.
 
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