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Brake pad aging?

earlfor

earlfor

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Past Site Supporter
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Just wondering...... I recently replaced the front brake pads on my 450 with an almost new, but used set I had on hand. The "new" set is probably 20 years old. The problem is they will not lock up the front wheel even as I was riding the bike across my front lawn and trying to lock up the front. No stopping power. I have new brake lines, rebuilt caliper, resurfaced rotor and a new master cylinder on the bike, so I am fairly certain the problem is not in those brake components. All that is left is the new pads. Anyone know if old pads glaze or harden simply because age?

Earl
 
Doubt it. They may be shiny and need to be scuffed a little. Why not take them for a slow & easy spin around the block to 'bed them in' a little?
 
How are the rotor's? usually brakes tend to have less braking power with thinner rotors.
 
I've always used a fine sandpaper to scuff up brake pads. I do this on the existing used pads if they still have enough thickness to "deglaze" and even on new ones before installing. I then wipe clean the rotors of any road or grease film that develops and again lightly scuff the surface of the rotor with real fine sandpaper, and wipe again.
I did this with my GS1100G when I first got it and it was like night and day on braking. But now I will replace the rear pads as they have another 2k+ miles on them and down close to the metal backing.
Note: I've never re-used pads from another bike as they are cheap enough and I wouldn't risk "used" parts in this case.
 
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Just go for a good ride and bed the pads in. Go easy at first for obvious reasons.
 
assuming you dont have air in your brake lines, the pads should be fine, unless they are asbestos based, in which case yes, they can be somewhat time sensitive. However, it should not be too the point that you cannot lock up the front brake while on grass.
 
I've already sanded and cleaned up the brake pads and deglazed/resurfaced the old rotor. After that, I replaced the rotor with a like new one. I've taken it or a ride to bed the pads using moderate braking. No change. Then another ride with very heavy braking, still no change. I've had the caliper apart three times and there is nothing wrong with it. The master cylinder is from a low milage 2005 Bandit 1200 and the same as I have on my 03 Bandit.
That master with two fingers on the lever will stand my Bandit in a stoppie.
It aint the master cylinder thats the problem. I guess I will see what I can find in some soft compound brake pads. I dont care how fast they wear, I just want eyeball popping BRAKES. I guess I've become spoiled by two finger, 1G stopping capability. :-)

Earl
 
Dual disc master cylinders have a larger diameter piston than single disc masters because they need to pump fluid to feed two calipers. When a dual master is installed on a bike with only one disc, a much firmer hand squeeze is needed compared to using a master with a smaller piston. Did a similar swap myself and the hand pressure difference was dramatic, but the lever feel was super firm. If you want less hand pressure you need a different master with smaller piston.
 
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