• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Brake Pads: Organic or Semi-Metallic

  • Thread starter Thread starter Turtleface
  • Start date Start date
T

Turtleface

Guest
Well, the rear brakes are just about done, and I figure I might as well toss new fronts on as well. Not sure how old these current pads are, but I'm sure that technology has improved since they were installed. So, I'm in the market for new pads. Rotors still have plenty of life in them. Anyone have any recommendations? I prefer to purchase the best I can afford, I've had fewer problems with parts that are of a quality build, versus those that are poorly assembled. I'm going to flush the brake lines and refill with new fluid as well, while I'm at it. Hoses are original, but they don't look soft, and have no leaks. They're getting replaced with stainless lines as soon as funds allow. Fork seals take priority, since the stock brake system is still adequate.

So, what's everyone's favorite pad type? Or brand? I'm looking for maximum performance, mostly, cost and longevity are secondary.
 
Turtleface said:
So, what's everyone's favorite pad type? Or brand? I'm looking for maximum performance, mostly, cost and longevity are secondary.
Click to expand...
"Everyone's favorite" is not what will necessarily be the best for you. :o

One thing that will help determine what will be the best pad for you will be to determine just how you plan on using your bike. If you will be cruising around, doing average stuff (like most of us do), then organic will do you just fine. They will even be decent for an occasional trip to the mountains that are not too far from you. As long as you don't try to set time records for descents from the top, organics will be fine. They will tend to fade when they get hot, but most of us don't work them that hard.

Semi-metallics will be better for resisting heat fade, but at the expense of eating away at the rotor.

Ceramics are even better for resisting heat fade, but aren't worth a tinker's damn until they are warm, so that makes them pretty useless for average street use. Much better on the track, where you know how much you are going to be using the brakes.

.
 
If your funds are limited you will get more bang for your buck by replacing the rubber brake lines for Teflon/stainless type compared to changing out brake pads that still have life in them. You can build a set of Earl’s lines for about $100 for both front and rear. Suzuki calls for changing the OE rubber lines every TWO years so yours are 27 years past due.

Regarding pads, EBC organic pads work well and won’t hurt your rotors. Ferodo Platinum pads are reputed to be good as well. Semi metallic pads will tear up your brake rotors so I’d stay clear of this type although they are reputed to have good braking performance.
 
Organic it is, then. I'd do the lines now, but I've got my budget tied up in fixing my speedo and fork seals. Lines are next on the list.
 
67fire said:
I just LOVE the SBS pads! They last... forever!
I use the engine to brake, on every stop as well. ;)

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...atId=&productId=p191415&leafCatId=&mmyId=7128

As with ALL new pads, make certain that BOTH sets of the front ones share the SAME BATCH CODE!
(printed on the side of the friction material.)
You don't want them to pull left or right, correct?

Eric :)
Click to expand...

They won't pull, that's a car thing. Bikes with only one brake don't pull.

How are they for braking effort?
Do they come on harder when they heat up?
 
67fire said:
He only has one front brake?

Eric
Click to expand...

No, he should have two - unless he's a bobber type that took one off to look cool.
I meant pulling to one side is not an issue, as smaller bikes with only one brake don't pull to the side with the brake.
 
If you know what I am referring to, you would want your front brakes to stop true when you have to slam on the binders. :eek:

Just sayin'

Eric :)
 
67fire said:
If you know what I am referring to, you would want your front brakes to stop true when you have to slam on the binders. :eek:

Just sayin'

Eric :)
Click to expand...
My friend I think we would ALL love for our big ol GS to "stoppie" when we slam em on, but ive yet to ride a GS, even with modded brakes that will stop like that.

I will agree however that I HAVE felt what I would call "pulling" from one side or the other on bikes whose brakes had a problem on one side or the other. By all rights it SHOULDNT physicly happen, but I cant deny what Ive felt in the bars.
 
TheCafeKid said:
I will agree however that I HAVE felt what I would call "pulling" from one side or the other on bikes whose brakes had a problem on one side or the other. By all rights it SHOULDNT physicly happen, but I cant deny what Ive felt in the bars.
Click to expand...

This must be something wrong with suspension or frame alignment.

One of my big old BMWs stopped crooked until I highsided it, then it stopped perfectly straight after that.
 
TCK wrote: "My friend I think we would ALL love for our big ol GS to "stoppie" when we slam em on,"

Well, I can tell you one thing for a fact, mine did just that! :eek:
A person decided to run a light and darn near got me!!!
I grabbed with my full hand and the rear end went skyward!
SBS brakes, only improvement from stock. ;)
Missed my front tire by mere inches!!! :eek:

Eric
 
I chew up organic and semi-metallic on my rear brake. I have three spare rear rotors just in case.
They've been rebuilt.
Should you use the rear to stop at 120mph?
 
67fire said:
Why not? For you, that is cruising speed. ;)

Eric :)
Click to expand...
I've told that story a few times where you are laughing at me for flying all kicked back with my feet on the highway pegs.
TOO relaxed you say?
 
You look like you are on the way to a beach party! :D
Only thing missing is a towel over your shoulder. :-\\\

Eric
 
Turtleface said:
Well, the rear brakes are just about done, and I figure I might as well toss new fronts on as well. Not sure how old these current pads are, but I'm sure that technology has improved since they were installed. So, I'm in the market for new pads. Rotors still have plenty of life in them. Anyone have any recommendations? I prefer to purchase the best I can afford, I've had fewer problems with parts that are of a quality build, versus those that are poorly assembled. I'm going to flush the brake lines and refill with new fluid as well, while I'm at it. Hoses are original, but they don't look soft, and have no leaks. They're getting replaced with stainless lines as soon as funds allow. Fork seals take priority, since the stock brake system is still adequate.

So, what's everyone's favorite pad type? Or brand? I'm looking for maximum performance, mostly, cost and longevity are secondary.
Click to expand...

Do a search or call these guys for recos.

http://www.vintagebrake.com/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top