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Brakeline Replacement Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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I am getting ready to upgrade to braided stainless brakelines on my 1980 GS550L. I will be tackling the front brake first, then the rear (assuming I am pleased with the front results). I have been doing a reasonable amount of research, but am left with some questions. Any help/advice/comments will be appreciated:

1) I think switching to custom built single lines on the front (single disk) and eventually rear (also single disk), is the way I want to go. I don't see any reason for all those extraneous fittings, little bits of tubing, etc. that just seem to add complexity and more places to leak, when it should be just as easy to replace the whole mess with a single braided line. Do you see any faults with my logic? Any opinions about why this shouldn't work?

2) I am narrowing in to either Russell or Goodridge. Both offer equivalent features for DOT compliant setups and are roughly comparable in price. Is there someone else I should consider whose products are vastly superior to Russell/Goodridge? Does anyone feel very strongly about or have reason to recommend one much more than the other? Any suggestions for dealers I should go through to buy what I need (e.g., J&PCycles, Kirk, Whitney)?

3) Any opinions about a preferred type of crush washer for the union/banjo bolt fitting? It appears that copper and aluminum are the most common, but I do not know which would be better for use with chrome plated stainless banjos.

4) Has anyone had any luck finding metric brake fittings, such as 10mm banjos and crush washers, through their local auto supply store? What are the chances that I could walk into Schucks or NAPA and find any of these in stock on their shelves?

5) Regarding construction, I have found a few suggestions to use teflon tape on the banjo fitting threads when assembling, but by no means a common observation. Any opinions or thoughts about the need or desirability of using teflon tape?

6) My Clymer manual indicates the union/banjo bolts should be torqued to 15-18 ft-lbs; my Haynes and original Suzuki manual do not indicate a recommended torquing. Would you concur with the Clymer recommendation or do you recommend a different torque range?

7) Finally, I have seen "speed bleeders" for sale at pretty reasonable costs (e.g., $15/pair). Do you have any experience with using these (i.e., do they actually work or are they just hype)? If they do work, are they worth the investment given the once a year or less benefit they offer when replacing the brake fluid?

That's it for now. I'm sure I will think of other questions as I actually get into this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts and input you can offer...

...Ross
 
my 2 cents worth

my 2 cents worth

No doubt someone else with more experience will chime in here by my opinions:
1) agree, I see no fault with your logic -k.i.s.s Keep It Simple Stupid, always works for me
2) I used fittings, hose etc. from a local hydraulic supply shop, no problems at all. Never did believe in brand names for everything.
3) I use copper, just me though
4) never looked
5) don't need tape, the seal is made from either surface of the banjo thru the crush washers
6) although a believer in torque wrenches I never used one on my fittings, just tightened until snug. Didn't say it was the right way just the way I did
7) not worth $15 to me for something thats not hard to do, besides it's something else to screw up

Mike
 
I always replace the rubber hoses woth braided as soon as i buy a bike. I have always used goodridge but I would assume that any other make is just as good.
1. A single line per caliper from the master cylinder is good and will keep your costs down as it is the couplings that cost, not the lines!
2. As I said, I use goodridge but there are many others. If you take your old rubber lines to the shop they will measure them and make the new ones to the correct length.
3. I don't think that this matters too much, I use copper though.
4. Sorry, I live in the UK and can't help here.
5. I've never used tape and never had any problem.
6. I don't know about torques, I just tightened them by feel.
7. Sorry, I don't know what speed bleeders you are refering to. I use a good non-return valve and a clean jar (but I am very old fashioned).

Hope my experiences help. You will feel a great improvement in your braking after and it is an easy job to tackle. Bear in mind that you may have to "prime" your new lines before connecting the end at the caliper. If you have twin front discs you can fit a double banjo bolt at the resovior and a single line to each of the front callipers.
 
I kicked a little extra in and got the the ones I had made covered in clear plastic tubing, keeps the stainless from screwing up your paint job when it rubs on something, another thunk is to get a line pressure activated brake switch for the front, as the stock one sucks. I agree with using just one line, and don't use teflon tape.I do know that the banjo is 10mm X 1.00 pitch and is common only to Suzis and Euro marques with Brembos, ie. Ducati, MotoGuzzi, here's a link to the switches...
http://www.bevelheaven.com/stuff-for-sale-brake-switch.htm , he was a good guy to deal with
 
lines

lines

[icolor=black][/color]i have always used gooridge lines and fittings. very nice stuff.
 
Re: lines

Re: lines

SMITHGPZ said:
[icolor=black][/color]i have always used gooridge lines and fittings. very nice stuff.
Click to expand...

I also need to replace my lines but every time I look at one of these brake line web sites I don't find an application for our bikes and basically don't understand the sites. Can you buy the hose and fittings in bulk and make your own? The pictures I did find, showed crimped fittings. I would rather make my own with screw in reusable fittings. Is there a place to buy them?

bob
 
Japanese car parts stores have all the metric fittings. They're a bit pricey though.
My opinion...?.....
Do not use teflon on brake fittings.
The last thing you want is contaminated fluid.

2 cents
 
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