After you remove the stator, measure the resistance between each of the three wires and the 'core' they are wound on. I won't matter much if you find where it's shorting to the frame, it's still shorted.
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C
cableguy
Guest
Maybe the short is in the harness path from r/r to battery. That's why it is recommended to use the direct wire approach. I know your first attempt didn't produce the result you wanted but if you got it to work by using the factory harness then you just eliminated the r/r and stator as the bad parts. Try the direct wire again and run 1 red to fuse box with inline 15A fuse and the other red straight to batt+. For your grounds find a clean spot on the frame that's close to batt-, and that's where you want your grounds to attach. One short single wire will go from there to batt-. Do you crimp with crimpers or just pliers? It makes a difference to use crimpers. Hope that helps!
No , but I assumed he had run it a while after the testing phase and it wasn't happy producing current.
E
ekabil
Guest
Can a stator make 85 VAC on each leg yet be shorted to ground? Something doesn't seem right.
I didn't test it for current once I realized it was shorted. Since there was a short I assume it wouldn't make the VAC. Although, now that the battery is charged, I could start it and measure VAC. Maybe I should do that just to prove beyond a doubt that the stator is the culprit.
I had stopped somewhere, and when I tried to start it it was really slow, like the battery was low. I measured battery volts, and they were 12.2 and decreasing.
Maybe the short is in the harness path from r/r to battery.
I found the short with the stator disconnected from the RR, the short was between the stator and the end of the stator wires. There was connectivity between each of the stator's wires and the engine, while the stator was disconnected (and bike off). and I do use crimpers, I've got real good with them lately
After you remove the stator, measure the resistance between each of the three wires and the 'core' they are wound on. I won't matter much if you find where it's shorting to the frame, it's still shorted.
Thanks! I will try that when I open it, which won't be till the replacement (free) gets here in three days. I ask because I don't want to send them this stator and have them test it ok, because then I won't get refunded for it and I'll end up with two stators.
I didn't test it for current once I realized it was shorted. Since there was a short I assume it wouldn't make the VAC. Although, now that the battery is charged, I could start it and measure VAC. Maybe I should do that just to prove beyond a doubt that the stator is the culprit.
I had stopped somewhere, and when I tried to start it it was really slow, like the battery was low. I measured battery volts, and they were 12.2 and decreasing.
Maybe the short is in the harness path from r/r to battery.
I found the short with the stator disconnected from the RR, the short was between the stator and the end of the stator wires. There was connectivity between each of the stator's wires and the engine, while the stator was disconnected (and bike off). and I do use crimpers, I've got real good with them lately
After you remove the stator, measure the resistance between each of the three wires and the 'core' they are wound on. I won't matter much if you find where it's shorting to the frame, it's still shorted.
Thanks! I will try that when I open it, which won't be till the replacement (free) gets here in three days. I ask because I don't want to send them this stator and have them test it ok, because then I won't get refunded for it and I'll end up with two stators.
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