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Break bleeding tip:

  • Thread starter Thread starter DannyMotor
  • Start date Start date
Yes, I also hate bleeding brakes, not to mention hydraulic clutches. I have never tried speed bleeders, mainly because of cost. I usually have 4-6 bikes at any given time and that would be a hefty cost to have speed bleeders on all of them.

I just read a very favorable review of the Motion Pro Mini-Bleeder in Motorcycle Consumer News. It is basically a speed bleeder that can be used on any 8mm bleeder nipple. I will report back once I get the Mini-Bleeder and test it out.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Two hours today, spent bleeding the brakes...again.

Ended up exactly where I started. No drips, no runs, no improvement.
 
oldrookie said:
Two hours today, spent bleeding the brakes...again.

Ended up exactly where I started. No drips, no runs, no improvement.
Click to expand...

you have probably done it, but just in case you have not.....

now that your confident you have all the air out, and lines are full of nothing but brake fluid, I might suggest...

pump the lever many times, it will eventually get hard and you won't be able to pump no more, at this point don't let it go back to neutral position but hold it back towards the bars, and tie it up in that position, so that it cannot go back, leave it like this overnight, tomorrow unwrap and let the lever release on it's own, you should feel a difference....

for the rear do the same, pump and pump until it can't move hold there, wedge something so it don't release, leave over night, it should help....I wedged some wood and the handle of a paint brush and up against the part the nub goes in for the side cover

I did this just the other day, and it worked, very little lever movement and it gets hard and grabs well now.....

hope it works out for you....

.
 
Simply fill everything with fluid manually before putting it all back together. Bleed as normal.
Nothing to it..
Never noticed a bit of difference with the overnight, bungee cord thing.
Perhaps they were as good as they were gonna get.
 
Thinking about draining it all, checking everything I've done to it and back filling the fluid.

Really don't want to, but doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result doesn't seem a productive use of my time.
 
Results seem better this a.m. I tied the handle back for the 75th time (slightly overstated) and I THINK the brakes are better.

Going for a ride shortly and will know for sure after that.
 
They are at least as good a they were with 27-year old parts...so for now that is a win. won't rival any new bikes...but I am much happier with them than I have been in a month.
 
Glad to hear it's a positive outcome......even if it's the same as before, at least it's not worse....

.
 
Here's what I did:

1. Took the caliper off and shook it vigorously. Made sure the bleeder was higher than the brake line port.

2. Attached the MityVac and slathered grease around the base of the bleeder and around the hose attached to the bleeder. (Used Teflon tape when I put the bleeder on a few weeks ago.)

3. Cranked the vacuum up to 25 lbs. and confirmed that no air was leaking around the grease.

4. Opened the bleeder as little as possible and just allowed the brake fluid to trickle into the clear tube.

5. Once I had an inch to two inches of fluid in the tube I watched for bubbles. Tapped the caliper a few times with the plastic handle of my screwdriver.

6. Once I started seeing bubbles I gently pumped the brake lever and watched tiny bubbles work their way out. I didn't tighten the bleeder, just assumed/hoped that the suction action would pull fluid and not air back into the caliper. I kept a close watch on the fluid level to ensure that only fluid was drawn back in. Goes against the accepted procedure, but the normal way wasn't working for me.
 
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