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Breaking in new parts

  • Thread starter Thread starter oneliterbeater
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oneliterbeater

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After reading some newer posts that caught my eye because I am going through some of the same replacement/maintenance items, I came up with some questions. Now keep in mind, I read this site every day and count myself lucky that I've found such a wealth of knowledge, but I can't find &*^% when I search for my own answers, so be gentle please...


Question #1:

What is a good procedure for breaking in new brake pads? (rear specifically, but I would like to know front also because inevitably they will get replaced).

Question #2:

Does a new chain need to be broken in? I am having one installed by my local shop. Any prep needed once it's installed, or just maintain it after it's installed?

Thank you for your help. :)
 
New chain doesnt require any break in...slam the hellm out of it andn have fun. The pads will work themselves in from normal riding.
 
If you want half assed brakes, break them in half assed.
If you want great brakes, do some research and then bed them in properly. It takes more than just riding around to get the molecular transfer going properly, it takes heat, a lot of heat.
 
tkent02 said:
If you want half assed brakes, break them in half assed.
If you want great brakes, do some research and then bed them in properly. It takes more than just riding around to get the molecular transfer going properly, it takes heat, a lot of heat.
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to step on my elders' toes here, but you sure seem bitter. I get it. I own an L. Strike one. I have an L that's not stock. Strike 2. I own an L that is currently painted black. Strike 3.

Now, if one could put all of those things aside and offer some sage advice, what would you offer up? Another smartass comment to belittle me?

I guess I could google my questions, but that's what brought me here in the first place. And I didn't stop when this site showed up at the top of the list. I checked out many sources and realized that this place is the spot to be if you want the experience and advice of those who live and breathe these particular bikes.

Now, if I just misunderstood your comment, I'm sorry. But I try to read every new post I see here while going through older posts to learn as I go. Just seems lately that your answers to most are the same as I interpreted this one.

So, when you say if I want half assed brakes (which I didn't ask for) how would one go about getting half assed brakes? Then, assuming I don't want half assed brakes, How would one go about that?

I do appreciate the knowledge base here and would have long ago abandoned my project had it not been for this website, but I don't understand the animosity towards new guys with "not exactly how I would do it" projects.

I have two more GS bikes sitting in the garage that I bought simply from the confidence that this website instilled in me. They are both bone stock, one a 750E and one a 450L. I know, strike 4. :(
 
How come you dont have to drive around in cars with your foot on the brakes till they are hot enough to molecularly seat them? Can you show me a manual that i can read this for myself? For a bike or a car. Not some science from a forum either...a direct link to an actaul manual that talks about this, please. I would like to read this information for myself.
 
What I do is take a ride and drag the brakes some while at speed under throttle. Heat then cool, repeat a few times. No need for anything to dramatic, just accelerate the wear to seat the pads.
 
Thanks. I wrench on all my 4 wheeled vehicles(cages I think they are referred to as here). Newest vehicle I've ever owned was still at least ten years old, and mostly fords. I had a cb200 when I was 14 and got it running about a year later, reliably anyway. Also owned a cbr600 that I'm glad I didn't kill myself on, but never wrenched on it. Sold it for more than I paid for it.

I'm to the age where I do respect the knowledge of those who have been there before me. And I know how to break in parts on cages, just wanted to make sure I was on the right path with my two wheel endeavors. :)
 
This took about four seconds to find. There are a lot more articles.
I don't care about your L, that was intended for Chuck, once again spouting bullish:t about something he knows nothing about.

Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures

Lea esta p?gina en espa?ol

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

SATISFIED

For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

For all other Satisfied pads —

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
 
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