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Broken Head Bolt

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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Guest

Guest
I just started an overhaul on my 82 GS1100E which has been sitting garaged ~10 years now. When I parked it the small head bolt near the timing chain and exhaust was dripping oil. I loosened it a couple turns and then went to tighten it and it snapped clean off. Yes, I was using a torque wrench set to ~95 inch pounds.

The bolt in question is #10 on the attached diagram,

What's the best way to remove this? I'm thinking of bringing it to a machine shop 'm afraid if a try and drill a hole in it for an easy out it will slip and drill into the head and ruin it.

There also seam to be a good amount of carbon build up on the valves and cylinders. Should I just leave it, clean it off (how?) or have the head rebuilt too.
 
5azzmonkey said:
I just started an overhaul on my 82 GS1100E which has been sitting garaged ~10 years now. When I parked it the small head bolt near the timing chain and exhaust was dripping oil. I loosened it a couple turns and then went to tighten it and it snapped clean off. Yes, I was using a torque wrench set to ~95 inch pounds.

The bolt in question is #10 on the attached diagram,

What's the best way to remove this? I'm thinking of bringing it to a machine shop 'm afraid if a try and drill a hole in it for an easy out it will slip and drill into the head and ruin it.

There also seam to be a good amount of carbon build up on the valves and cylinders. Should I just leave it, clean it off (how?) or have the head rebuilt too.
Click to expand...


When you pull the head and cylindes you wil have access to this nub of a bolt. You or anyone cannot heal a leaking gasket by tightening a bolt. Once a gasket has cinched up it has reached its limit.
Any thing beyond a cinch is asking for trouble in the form of a snapped bolt. Be happy it was not a worse bolt in a less happy place.
 
When the bolt snapped it wasn't even tight against the head. I figured it was worth the chance to try , worst case is it still leaked. Until the bolt broke!
 
5azzmonkey said:
When the bolt snapped it wasn't even tight against the head. I figured it was worth the chance to try , worst case is it still leaked. Until the bolt broke!
Click to expand...


leaks are going to continue in such a place because the clampig force on the joint has no signifigance. Once oil has passed the idea that you can tighten a bolt to stop a leak is past.
 
yeah that is what I figured. Didn't take long to pull it everything came apart pretty easy except the end cap covers, 3 of them are still on the valve cover soaking in sea foam. Why did they have to use Philips head on those!

Thanks for the quick response
 
5azzmonkey said:
yeah that is what I figured. Didn't take long to pull it everything came apart pretty easy except the end cap covers, 3 of them are still on the valve cover soaking in sea foam. Why did they have to use Philips head on those!

Thanks for the quick response
Click to expand...

You will get a fab site wlcome soon form some zen buddhist guy who cannt play a guitar so he plays bass. Which we all know is a fish.

Anyway lots of resources and lots of manuals etc coming your way in a greeting soon.

Do not lanet the snapped bolt. It caracked under pressure. Now that has been relieved it should spin out easily whi a left hand drill bit.
 
Thank You ... This site is great I've been browsing it for the last couple of weeks, lot's of great info .........
 
My '82 GS1100E had a minor leak at the same bolt. Like you I tightened it a little, mine didn't snap though, and the leak stopped. After reading
about your situation, I feel pretty fortunate.

With the head off it shouldn't be too difficult for a machine shop to remove that bolt.
 
Ray,
I'm in Connecticut. I have been riding lately with friends in Nebraska on a borrowed bike.

All,

I talked to my mechanic last night and I am dropping the head off at his house tonight, he said he should be able to get the bolt out for me. We are also going to hone the jug so I can replace the rings. I figure I minds as well while I'm in there.
 
rapidray said:
Order 2 new orings for the front 2, center head nuts while you are at it. Ray.
Click to expand...


Does anybody know what size they are and what the material should be? I expect it will be much cheaper at my hardware store and/or mcmaster.
 
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