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Bypass clutch safety

  • Thread starter Thread starter ThrottleBack
  • Start date Start date
Hi,

The bike has been sitting around for a long time, decades. It has several problems, not just one simple thing. All the rubber is old. The gas in the carbs has turned to varnish. Electrical connections are corroded. The fuel tank may be rusty. You will need to start by properly cleaning the carburetors and repairing the air intake system. Replace the tires, replace the brake lines, replace the rubber seals in the brake calipers and master cylinders, clean all of the electrical connections and grounds, etc. Follow the maintenance lists in the "mega-welcome". Skipping steps or taking shortcuts will cause frustration at best, and cause mayhem at worst.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I'm betting it's more the switch because when it was engaging it was strong and solid
 
The carbs and all are fine, tank is perfect, etc. The bike runs like new. Brake lines and fuel lines were just replaced last year. Tires as well. Intake boot was replaced in 2010 and a full carb service was done in January. all documented in the service records.

I opened up the switch and there was a dead spider among other things in there. I cleaned it all out, scrubbed the switch clean, checked contact etc. Still not engaging.

How many safety's does the bike actually have? The starter and solenoid do not appear to be an issue, either.
 
Yea I cleaned them both, though the kill was in great shape I did it since I was already in there. I'm almost positive it cranked when my stand was down but that doesn't mean one isn't there. in fact if there is it would indicatean issue.

I will take a peek
 
Time to get out your multi-meter and see where in the starting circuit the flow of electricity stops.
 
yep, you need to stop taking lucky dips, you need to go through the whole start circuit until you discover the problem
 
ugh one hand makes everything such a pita. doesn't help that i suck with that tool
 
dont you have a wife,friend,cat that can help?
get some croc clips for your volt meter. helps a lot as you can fix the ground on permanent then use the other to check voltages.
 
Im here myself today. I checked power at solenoid it was perfect. Used a screwdriver to jump the posts and she fired right up. Must be a safety, correct?
 
Im here myself today. I checked power at solenoid it was perfect. Used a screwdriver to jump the posts and she fired right up. Must be a safety, correct?

NO, not must be.......it could be a break in the circuit anywhere. bad or broken connection, you NEED to trace the wires back.............
 
I have power at starter button when set to RUN and not when off so thats working. I appear to have a working circuit
 
do you have power from the start button to the solenoid while the button is pressed?
 
The solenoid is reading a solid 12v anytime the key is on. How do I test the link between switch and solenoid?
 
I just hit both posts just for fun with the key off and obviously it cranked. Turned key on switched to run hit button and it fired up.
 
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